Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
This type would probably do and save having to crimp the hose in place.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113557453134
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113557453134
Doubt that would work as when you call they ask for an AA number which is printed on top or as soon as you mention sherman they will tell you no quite simply as he told me that the other week after an argument.
Probably not as the engineer is likely reading the posts hereI would be fine though
Doubt that would work as when you call they ask for an AA number which is printed on top or as soon as you mention sherman they will tell you no quite simply as he told me that the other week after an argument.
The one thing I don’t like about this so far is the torch, it just seems unnecessarily bulky... maybe time for an upgrade...They look ok for someone starting out
Get a flexi head on the torch and it will make things easier.
I used a WP26 torch for years and never knew any different so it was fine. I did always have a flexi head though and that makes a huge difference.The one thing I don’t like about this so far is the torch, it just seems unnecessarily bulky... maybe time for an upgrade...
Thanks both, much appreciated. I'm hoping I'll get there. After I got a few reasonably consistent(ish!!) beads, I was quite chuffed when I got the 2mm top sheet welded to the 3mm under it. I feel I've made a lot more progress, quicker, than I ever did on MIG. As I said earlier in the thread; it seems a lot more user-friendly.
This said, I started to feel like it was becoming a little more consistent then I'd dip the tungsten or feed the filler directly into the arc, or something similarly stupid and have a setback and back in the shed to grind it again. Also had about 30 mins where neither of my helmets would stay dark, which was a bit annoying. Nearly jacked it all in then
On the torch, I have actually splashed out on a different WP9 torch with a flex head. This was the one I'd got the adapter, etc, for (supplies links earlier in thread). I much prefer the button too - definite click on and off. I know it's a silly thing but the bundled torch switch felt like there wasn't a lot between pressed and released. Twice I stopped welding when I thought I was still pressing the button. Here it is before I started today (appreciate I've probably got too big on cup on it!):
View attachment 232298
I've also put a cheater lens in one helmet this time. I don't wear glasses, but perhaps I should as it's made it a lot easier.
Also tried a pyrex cup today, as it was a cheap one from China when buying consumables for the new torch. Seems a great idea, but couldn't get both O-rings on and the cup, so just ran with 1 - and seemed to have quite a bit of contamination even with gas turned up quite high. Went back to a pink cup instead and much better. I guess being in the right position kindof negates a glass cup anyway. Oh, speaking of gas, I also got a peashooter flow meter since my previous 40 min session. I'm now using a lot less gas than guesswork. I think on my last go I had some of an argon-based plasma cutter
Anyway, appreciate I'm derailing the thread slightly so I'll post in the beginners' section with some questions later on
Pics please.If you see the stuff I weld you would never get a wp26 near it as wp9 sometimes is too big
Aye colour is horribleDamn blue colour is a touch bright. Going to get my spare reg hooked up to it and hopefully do a back to back later on.
And find my plug adapter wherever I put it.
If you are meaning me then I will pass but the offer is appreciatedI'm sending Ruffian one out tomorrow would you like one
aye... if a 9 is too big, then a 17 and 26 are of equal uselessness then lolIf you see the stuff I weld you would never get a wp26 near it as wp9 sometimes is too big