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25.4_mechanic
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GraemeVW
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Junior hacksaw blade to scrape the mid out from on top of the sliding jaw, loads of wd40.
By brute force or after what sophisticated individual steps?
Carsten
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Then heavy rubber hammer abuse, which got me nowhere, lump of wood and a club hammer, also got me nowhere, copper mallet did the trick.
Took alot of back and forth to get it out though. About half hour of that was me wondering if I imagined it or it actually moved.
I know it's cast steel, not iron, but still paranoid about breaking it.
I also bought some washing powder so I can try some electrolysis. If I don't like the results, I'll order more citric.
25.4_mechanic
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25.4_mechanic
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Washing powder?
What are the ingredients of washing powder at your place??? Very interesting.I try to get sodium hydroxide, if I have to, sodium carbonate ... Of course no sodium chloride because of the chlorine gas.
There are probably a lot of possibilities ... but I never use vinegar - with or without electrolyses -, because I don't like the smell of it.
Carsten
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GraemeVW
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Washing powder?
I try to get sodium hydroxide, if I have to, sodium carbonate ... Of course no sodium chloride because of the chlorine gas.
There are probably a lot of possibilities ... but I never use vinegar - with or without electrolyses -, because I don't like the smell of it.
Carsten
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I don't know, just what I've read to use.
I ha e some proper alkaline soap cleaner specifically designed for electrolysis cleaning, but only 5l, so not enough.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Washing soda I find works best, cheep from the supermarket.
GraemeVW
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Same as washing powder? Soda isn't such a commonly used term round here.
It's just to make the water conductive anyway isn't it.
dannysheff
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Graeme and 25.4 - this thread is definitely the best place for a (mostly) civilised and fun conversation about vices and certainly has the most knowledge, but just in case you hadn't spotted them there is a v good timeline,history of British QR vices (mostly woodworking) on smallworkshop.co.uk and currently a thread on ukworkshop.co..uk about work on a parky vise.
GraemeVW
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I didn't know that, I'm not on those forums. I'll have a read. Thanks.
25.4_mechanic
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Thanks, Danny.
At smallworkshop.co.uk I found the connections between Record, Woden (the Hamptons) and Parkinson, that was my first source. Very helpful.
On ukworkshop.co..uk I don't know exactly which thread you mean, have looked through some I found with a search for "Parkinson" ... ?!??
Nice day to all
Carsten
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NaOH is excellent for degreasing parts and shifting stubborn paint. Never tried it with electrolysis but it makes sense that it should work, you've just got to be more careful around it.
GraemeVW
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Rather than start a new post I figured I may as well ask here.
I want to make some accessory vice jaws.
I'm pretty sure I'll want them hardened and tempered as they will only have a couple of points of contact.
The design I have in mind will involve alot of had cutting, shaping, and filing.
What grade steel should I use? I'm not too knowledgeable on steel grades.
I want to make some accessory vice jaws.
I'm pretty sure I'll want them hardened and tempered as they will only have a couple of points of contact.
The design I have in mind will involve alot of had cutting, shaping, and filing.
What grade steel should I use? I'm not too knowledgeable on steel grades.
25.4_mechanic
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What hardening methods are available to you?
Case hardening, surface hardening, vacuum hardening, hardening from a salt bath, precipitation hardening?
Example: 1.2842/90MnCrV8, maximum usual hardness 60-64 HRC, very good machinability, wear resistant & tough.
Soft annealed semi-finished products in many shapes for reasonable prices available!
With luck also in small quantities over at your place ... maybe already in the needed end-shape or close ...
The tempering temperature of 1.2842 depends on the desired hardness, but must be above 180 °C. This minimum temperature is necessary because the retained austenite does not decompose until the external temperature exceeds 185 °C. The hardening temperature is usually 840 °C.
Steel with cross sections up to 50 mm is quenched in oil or in a polymer bath. The soft annealing temperature is 680 - 710 °C. The temperature for stress annealing is 650 °C.
Gladly further questions, e.g. more specific for your needs and means.
Carsten
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GraemeVW
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I have a few options for hardening, both relying on friends.
One with oxy acetelyne, and one with a gas forge.
If the gas forge can't be temperature controlled then tampering will be either by guesswork, or the kitchen oven.
I want to make a wobble jaw type thing to allow holding triangular pieces in a vice. Like this, but not wood.
I'm assuming it will want to be hard, but not too hard.
I'll have to cut and shape it by hand as I have no mill!
One with oxy acetelyne, and one with a gas forge.
If the gas forge can't be temperature controlled then tampering will be either by guesswork, or the kitchen oven.
I want to make a wobble jaw type thing to allow holding triangular pieces in a vice. Like this, but not wood.
I'm assuming it will want to be hard, but not too hard.
I'll have to cut and shape it by hand as I have no mill!
timgunn1962
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The usual material for stuff like that is O1 oil-hardening steel. AKA Ground Flat Stock or Guage Plate, it is relatively easy to heat-treat without too much distortion in a "typical" workshop. Sold as precision-ground flat in the annealed condition, it can be sawn, filed, turned, milled, drilled, tapped, etc, until it is pretty close to finished dimension. After hardening and tempering, the last few thou are usually tickled off with a grinder or stones for things like guages that need high precision. No post-HT fettling should be needed for vice jaws.
Cromwell, Zoro, etc can be pretty good for gauge plate. Groundflatstock.com seem highly regarded by many of the knife making types.
Cromwell, Zoro, etc can be pretty good for gauge plate. Groundflatstock.com seem highly regarded by many of the knife making types.
GraemeVW
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@timgunn1962 thank you, just the info I needed.
Arc Tourist
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You could cut a piece of round bar in half ( length wise ) and weld it onto the back of your new jaw to simplify fettling.
25.4_mechanic
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Your O1 should be this in international terms:
1.2510, 100MnCrW4, HRC 59-63, Very good machinability, Wear resistant & Tough.
If that is more available in your area a very good choice, the properties are nearly identical to my example.
And of course, as I said, you buy it soft annealed in the size closest to your own dimensions, file it, harden it, and then let the stress out by tempering it.
Carsten
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