A standard hammer will get you there ,, no need to make things tricky , I use a snap on dead blow hammer for this sort of work , with a re profiled round end and it works grand .
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Myles1970
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SNOWINSPRING 5 Pcs Smoothing Pneumatic Air Hammer Pneumatic Chisel Bits Tools Kit: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
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Use one with a slight crown on the centre of your flat piece of sheet on a plywood board. Move back and forward in an oval movement to elongate the bowl. It causes stretching in the centre giving a bowl shape and it's surprisingly quick. You could use a form either.
There's more than one way to skin a cat
Dcal
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You can get special former heads for an air hammer but I tend to buy cheap chisels off ebay and weld ends on with stick (7018s)
They can break because the chisels are high carbon steel but if you put plenty of heat in and let it cool slowly you can get away with it. (most of the time)
The price of the proper bits puts me off because I'm cheap and don't use them that much.
They can break because the chisels are high carbon steel but if you put plenty of heat in and let it cool slowly you can get away with it. (most of the time)
The price of the proper bits puts me off because I'm cheap and don't use them that much.
I work on glass fiber cars and it always blows me away with what you guys do with metal ones - looking at your photo's I honestly wouldn't know where to start - its a credit to you - well done 
Will continue to follow with great interest.
Will continue to follow with great interest.
Dcal
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View attachment 288376SNOWINSPRING 5 Pcs Smoothing Pneumatic Air Hammer Pneumatic Chisel Bits Tools Kit: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop SNOWINSPRING 5 Pcs Smoothing Pneumatic Air Hammer Pneumatic Chisel Bits Tools Kit.www.amazon.co.uk
Use one with a slight crown on the centre of your flat piece of sheet on a plywood board. Move back and forward in an oval movement to elongate the bowl. It causes stretching in the centre giving a bowl shape and it's surprisingly quick. You could use a form either.
There's more than one way to skin a cat
Nice find Miles, the only ones I found were expensive for what they were.
I think I'll get a set, certainly not worth making at that price.
Myles1970
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I'm an advocate of "buy cheap-buy often"
.. .. especially at this priceA quick update then. My Bro has been busy cleaning off underseal ready for the weekend when I will be there to lend a hand. It’s a good job we didn’t assume the underseal was doing a good job, if you look at the wheel arch you can see where it was starting to rust under the stuff. Overall though it looks less intimidating that it did now I can see so much good metal. Roll on the weekend when I can be there to play
Al Strachan
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Finding this thread particularly enjoyable. Keep up the good work and please do flood us with pics
Right, so we did a bit of repair work at the weekend. This was a puzzling repair done by someone previously and took some head scratching to figure out how to sort it. Ended up cutting the reinforcement below, removing the repair and stitching in some new metal before replacing the section of reinforcement we cut out.
Now a serious question if I may. Well 2 questions actually.
First, welding in the repair sections I was really struggling to get the power settings right. One second it’s blowing holes and the next it’s a really cold looking weld with a lot of height, no decent penetration. Welder is the R-Tech promig 250. 0.8mm SG3 wire, Binzel 25 torch, argon co2 5% mix, started with lowest setting and working up. It’s almost like I can’t get the precise power needed. Weird.
second, what can I use to dress back the welds when a grinder won’t go it?
Thanks chaps.
First, welding in the repair sections I was really struggling to get the power settings right. One second it’s blowing holes and the next it’s a really cold looking weld with a lot of height, no decent penetration. Welder is the R-Tech promig 250. 0.8mm SG3 wire, Binzel 25 torch, argon co2 5% mix, started with lowest setting and working up. It’s almost like I can’t get the precise power needed. Weird.
second, what can I use to dress back the welds when a grinder won’t go it?
Thanks chaps.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I use a power file - Black and Decker KA900E...I buy the wide sanding belts and cut/tear them myself (learned that on here).
Beat me to it....the KA900E is tough as old boots but looks like a toy!
I use the blue (zircon?) belts...the brown ones don't work so good on welds.
Myles1970
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I'm finding the same thing. I put it down to a combination of erratic wire-feed, poor parent metal and user error.
As regards grinding welds, I find using a cutting disk (space permitting) works best - using the thin edge. Finishing off with a 10mm zirconium belt. Otherwise a fresh flap-disk used carefully, although they eat metal rapidly
Interesting thread this - I have exactly the same thing to do on a Vauxhall Magnum. Have the roll over jig ready and need to start the strip down and back to metal next. Lots of similarities so will watch this thread with interest! Are you going fully back to metal underneath given the finding of some rust under the underseal. I was tempted to leave 'good' underseal, but am less so now!
Have gone back to bare metal underneath, all the work of my brother I hasten to add (he is a lurker so I can't take all the credit for his work). To be honest it's the only way to be sure we've got all the rust sorted.
Due to the un-sustainability of me loading the car, travelling 180 miles to Kent, doing a weekend and then reversing the process, the shell and jig will be coming up to me while he works on all the mechanicals. Then we should start to see some better progress.
Due to the un-sustainability of me loading the car, travelling 180 miles to Kent, doing a weekend and then reversing the process, the shell and jig will be coming up to me while he works on all the mechanicals. Then we should start to see some better progress.
Bobupndown
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Nice project, love an old Sierra, got happy and not so happy memories of them including a head on collision in a very similar red hatchback to yours, still here to tell the tale so can't be all bad. Keep up the pictures.
Screwdriver
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It can seem overwhelming at the start, especially since every panel appears to have it's own patch. Looks like you're on top of it though. Will follow with interest since "one of these days" I will need to get on with the second half of my T4 restoration. Mine won't be aiming for concourse, just need to keep the MOT chap happy...
<edit> https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/rotten-vw-t4.56717/
OMG. Was that really 2015?? Seems like yesterday. it's still sitting there, gently rusting...
<edit> https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/rotten-vw-t4.56717/
OMG. Was that really 2015?? Seems like yesterday. it's still sitting there, gently rusting...
Danez
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slim_boy_fat
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Right, the shell arrived this morning. Back on the jig and wheeled into the garage.
Did a bit thatI wasn’t planning to do, just a bit of poking around that sort of ran away with me. Mostly cutting stuff out to get to the inside rot. This is the OSR arch area which I need to figure out how to make repair sections for.
And the I spied a bodgy plate. Hmmm, I need to see what’s under it. And then a wee bit of cardboard aided design and I have the seam lip back.
Off for a bath now before I watch England lose
edit. This forum upload and IPADs don’t work, all out of sequence again.
Did a bit thatI wasn’t planning to do, just a bit of poking around that sort of ran away with me. Mostly cutting stuff out to get to the inside rot. This is the OSR arch area which I need to figure out how to make repair sections for.
And the I spied a bodgy plate. Hmmm, I need to see what’s under it. And then a wee bit of cardboard aided design and I have the seam lip back.
Off for a bath now before I watch England lose
edit. This forum upload and IPADs don’t work, all out of sequence again.
