jpmillermatic
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- Thread starter PhillipM
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PhillipM
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New bearings arrived this morning, and me being me, couldn't just stick them in out of the packaging could I? Not when the rest of the build has been needlessly convoluted and taken 4 times longer than it should have?
So, degreased, into a hot soak in a methanol bath they went, now they have a nice molybdenum/graphite surface coating and have all been deburred, just in case.
Before and after:
So, degreased, into a hot soak in a methanol bath they went, now they have a nice molybdenum/graphite surface coating and have all been deburred, just in case.
Before and after:
PhillipM
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Both 
Being an axial rather than radial bearing the thrust washers can't cope with much load even with oil feeds, as they don't build an oil wedge - so they're almost always in mixed lubrication regimes when starting up or using the clutch, so the coating should help with the wear life.
Since our diagphram is working in the opposite direction (push rather than pull), and has more clamping force, it's cheap insurance.
Being an axial rather than radial bearing the thrust washers can't cope with much load even with oil feeds, as they don't build an oil wedge - so they're almost always in mixed lubrication regimes when starting up or using the clutch, so the coating should help with the wear life.
Since our diagphram is working in the opposite direction (push rather than pull), and has more clamping force, it's cheap insurance.
PhillipM
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The methanol is slightly corrosive to the aluminium/lead facing on the bearing so helps to etch it, it also promotes the bonding of the moly to the carbon sites in the steel, some through cleaning, some through carbon contamination itself. Moly is sprayed on (as fast as possible out of the hot methanol bath) then baked, burnished, then it gets another layer of moly, and then it gets a layer of mixed moly and graphite that bonds to the top of that, again, baked on and burnished.
It's not as durable as a properly sputtered/plasma sprayed moly surface but it's meant to be a sacrificial surface that will transfer to the crank, so it doesn't need to be.
It's not as durable as a properly sputtered/plasma sprayed moly surface but it's meant to be a sacrificial surface that will transfer to the crank, so it doesn't need to be.
jpmillermatic
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color combo looks great...go for it!
JP
JP
PhillipM
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New CV cups made up - the old ones were getting tired where they push on the output splines - big CV joint angles and a lot of driveshaft plunge take their toll there, and the OE fit on the splines is fairly loose to start with, then gearbox seals start weeping. Anyway, after a few years of abuse some new ones were due since everything else is new, these adapt from the Renault internal spline out to the right bolt pattern for the Porsche 930 CV joints we use, along with enough clearance to let the driveshafts plunge through the CV and into the flange.
Will be sending them off for plating this time as well, to tighten up the clearance where they slide on the splines and hopefully reduce some of the movement/wear there.
Will be sending them off for plating this time as well, to tighten up the clearance where they slide on the splines and hopefully reduce some of the movement/wear there.
PhillipM
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Good news, the CV joints are here!
Bad news, they're the undercut 'race' ones with undersized CV balls that we don't want, as they're crap for wear and distort where the bolt heads are undercut. Ordered genuine GKN outers, got chinese ****e.....hmm.
So yes, more waiting....
Bad news, they're the undercut 'race' ones with undersized CV balls that we don't want, as they're crap for wear and distort where the bolt heads are undercut. Ordered genuine GKN outers, got chinese ****e.....hmm.
So yes, more waiting....
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