bert
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Yes there are holes in the keels now after wire wheeling nut the deck was the main culprit and that's now welded up.No chance the hull's pinholed?
- Thread starter bert
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Morrisman
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Fill it with water afterwards, and see if any leaks out........
jerrytug
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The hull needs drying out thoroughly, and the old paint will need to be stripped off anyway, come what may.
At this point it's time to start gathering plenty of logs and some kindling, and get a proper fire going under the vessel.
Carefully monitored, it could save a lot of work, and banish dampness from the dank and mildewed interior fixtures and fittings, as well as removing exterior paint and antifouling down to the bare metal.
Definitely check the insurance small-print though; is it 3rd party only, or fully comp? Just in case.
(No Health and Safety risk-assessors need to attend; everything is fine, officer. Yes it is late for Guy Fawkes night, and no it's not a Viking funeral ha ha, just burning off a bit of paint.)
At this point it's time to start gathering plenty of logs and some kindling, and get a proper fire going under the vessel.
Carefully monitored, it could save a lot of work, and banish dampness from the dank and mildewed interior fixtures and fittings, as well as removing exterior paint and antifouling down to the bare metal.
Definitely check the insurance small-print though; is it 3rd party only, or fully comp? Just in case.
(No Health and Safety risk-assessors need to attend; everything is fine, officer. Yes it is late for Guy Fawkes night, and no it's not a Viking funeral ha ha, just burning off a bit of paint.)
Now thats a man with ferrous spheres ,,,, even I wouldnt try that and Im game for most things , I can certainly see the theory but Id like to see the pictures just the same.
Morrisman
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No chance of sand blasting it?I think I'll stick to grinders and dehumidifiers for now
brightspark
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Morrisman
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.... and a little patienceyea with a cheap pot and a 14cfm comp
Best thing I did some years ago - pay a man with the right gear to come along and blast my rusty objects - took him longer to set up his gear than to do it. If you worked out pounds per minute working, including his set up and dismantling time, he was on quite some rate! But work out the time and effort saved on my part, and the quality of the job being so much better than I could have achieved with the gear I had, it was worth every penny.
Lugging a full sized Hodge Clemco grit blaster, a road compressor and a load of grit around is a painful process, and cleaning up afterwards is even worse as you are knackered and sweaty !
I have a full size set up that only gets used rarely, and does a splendid when it does, but I admire the chaps who do it all day every day for a living - not a job I'd choose.
I have a full size set up that only gets used rarely, and does a splendid when it does, but I admire the chaps who do it all day every day for a living - not a job I'd choose.
brightspark
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a guy i know wanted his new narrow boat hull blasting. had his own road tow comp so i hired him my airfed helmet and the pot and he did his own. i scored 80 quid and he had it for a week
I think you need alternative quotes! Guy who did my stuff usually blasted buildings.
bert
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I don't think they let anyone else on site, I'd need to check but for that money I'd be buying my own road compressor and set up.
Beeezer
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I know the joy of what pien ball hammer hitting the side of a 120+ year old hull sounds like!!
good good good are feck!!
hull survey next year, the joys……
spaffmonkey
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Only just seen this and read the post. You mentioned your ultrasound is working intermittently. That could well be down to internal corrosion affecting the readings. Regarding repair, definitely cut the affected area out and weld in new steel. Overplating although very common in boats is not a good thing. It causes more issues than it cures.
addjunkie
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I agree with totally drying out, but there are far better ways to do it.
The best Ive ever been involved with was build a polythene tent, and use a desiccant wheel type dehumidifier. You could even hold the blast inside the tent to stop the steel blooming before its recoated.
To dry the boat you you simply blow dryish air through it, as the desicant wheel regenerates the exhaust air carries the moisture out side the tent. This can be done in a slow controlled process to avoid damage / warping to woodwork. It is possible to dry mouldy wood work out well enough to just brush the mould off as dust.
