MattF
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It's safe to say that was long overdue a lubricant change.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
It's safe to say that was long overdue a lubricant change.
JMS1972
Member
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- 1,208
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- NW Leicestershire, UK
I was thinking about doing that.
I watched
Looks like reassembly is a bit fiddly but not too bad.
Don't really have the cash or time to do this at the moment so decided to just settle on an oil change as the mill works fine for me.
Weird to see the bottom bearings were shielded rather than sealed does that let the oil wash away any grease I wonder.
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
In the process of restoring our 220-year-old house in Alna, Maine, one of the many tasks that we've been working on lately is removing the plaster ceiling that was concealing the beams in the ell of the house, with the idea of having exposed beams in those rooms. These are hefty, hand-hewn beams, averaging roughly 7" x 8" in cross-section, with clearly visible adze marks, so they should be a nice character feature in these rooms.
One of these beams had a longitudinal crack in it, as you can see below. This particular beam is called a "tie beam," which ties together the "top plates" and the ends of the "major rafters" on opposite sides of the ell. It's connected via mortise-and-tenon joints and secured with oak pegs. It doesn't support any weight load other than the floor of the attic storage area, but I went ahead and welded up a custom support bracket, using 3" x 3" x 3/16" steel angle and 3" x 3/16" steel flat bar and installed it.
For the ceiling treatment, we plan to install about 4" of styrofoam insulation under the attic floorboards between the tie beams and then cover the insulation with special "blueboard" sheetrock/drywall that's designed to receive plaster, which should create an authentic appearance. This means that only the lower 4" of the beams will be visible, and the modern bolts will be completely hidden. The old split-board lath on the walls will be re-secured, and then plastered with multiple layers of authentic lime-putty-and-sand plaster, containing animal hair or hemp fiber in the initial layers.
The cracked beam:
The bracket I made:
Bracket installed:
One of these beams had a longitudinal crack in it, as you can see below. This particular beam is called a "tie beam," which ties together the "top plates" and the ends of the "major rafters" on opposite sides of the ell. It's connected via mortise-and-tenon joints and secured with oak pegs. It doesn't support any weight load other than the floor of the attic storage area, but I went ahead and welded up a custom support bracket, using 3" x 3" x 3/16" steel angle and 3" x 3/16" steel flat bar and installed it.
For the ceiling treatment, we plan to install about 4" of styrofoam insulation under the attic floorboards between the tie beams and then cover the insulation with special "blueboard" sheetrock/drywall that's designed to receive plaster, which should create an authentic appearance. This means that only the lower 4" of the beams will be visible, and the modern bolts will be completely hidden. The old split-board lath on the walls will be re-secured, and then plastered with multiple layers of authentic lime-putty-and-sand plaster, containing animal hair or hemp fiber in the initial layers.
The cracked beam:
The bracket I made:
Bracket installed:
James1979
Member
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- 8,434
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- Orkney
Timberwolf hydraulics needed investigating when the rollers stopped working, pressure check revealed sod all pressure. Turns out the seat for the pressure relief valve had managed to unscrew itself and rip the seal. Said seat is way down in the valve block and only spotted it because the seal was hanging out of the side of it. A new seal fitted and butchered fashioned a socket to make a tool for reaching down in there to tighten the relief valve seat.
Timberwolf are just nasty to work on. The build let’s them down. Plenty of guys use them but because they’re cheap I think. I must have machined no end of parts for them over the years to replace factory bits. The factory wasn’t too far from me near Ipswich but I think they moved up north somewhere?
The 150s had a stupid twin hydraulic pump system from memory. The other thing that annoyed me was you couldn’t track and bring the tracks in at the same time, using the ground to your advantage. You can only do it stationary. I re piped one to allow the guy to do it the ‘proper’ way.
Do they still have those silly nylon slippers on the track arms that gum up?
Snap on do a 22mm 15 degree reversible ratchet ring spanner which is the only tool to release the grease bing for track changes. A decent concept machine but that’s where it sort of stopped. Shame really.
I’ve not worked on them since 190s came out so they’re probably loads better now.
Timberwolf are just nasty to work on. The build let’s them down. Plenty of guys use them but because they’re cheap I think. I must have machined no end of parts for them over the years to replace factory bits. The factory wasn’t too far from me near Ipswich but I think they moved up north somewhere?
The 150s had a stupid twin hydraulic pump system from memory. The other thing that annoyed me was you couldn’t track and bring the tracks in at the same time, using the ground to your advantage. You can only do it stationary. I re piped one to allow the guy to do it the ‘proper’ way.
Do they still have those silly nylon slippers on the track arms that gum up?
Snap on do a 22mm 15 degree reversible ratchet ring spanner which is the only tool to release the grease bing for track changes. A decent concept machine but that’s where it sort of stopped. Shame really.
I’ve not worked on them since 190s came out so they’re probably loads better now.
8ob
Member
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- 13,814
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- Nescient in the vale
Timberwolf hydraulics needed investigating when the rollers stopped working, pressure check revealed sod all pressure. Turns out the seat for the pressure relief valve had managed to unscrew itself and rip the seal. Said seat is way down in the valve block and only spotted it because the seal was hanging out of the side of it. A new seal fitted andbutcheredfashioned a socket to make a tool for reaching down in there to tighten the relief valve seat.
Timberwolf are just nasty to work on. The build let’s them down. Plenty of guys use them but because they’re cheap I think. I must have machined no end of parts for them over the years to replace factory bits. The factory wasn’t too far from me near Ipswich but I think they moved up north somewhere?
The 150s had a stupid twin hydraulic pump system from memory. The other thing that annoyed me was you couldn’t track and bring the tracks in at the same time, using the ground to your advantage. You can only do it stationary. I re piped one to allow the guy to do it the ‘proper’ way.
Do they still have those silly nylon slippers on the track arms that gum up?
Snap on do a 22mm 15 degree reversible ratchet ring spanner which is the only tool to release the grease bing for track changes. A decent concept machine but that’s where it sort of stopped. Shame really.
I’ve not worked on them since 190s came out so they’re probably loads better now.
All chippers are the same, they never sort the issues until they make a new model. The only reason for sticking with timberwolf is there is an agent within spitting distance which make spares/service items easy to source and collect.
Bob
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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Kind of fixed.
The old electric hydraulic pump unit failed after we took the last boat out in autumn, it wasn't an issue, as the last boat stays on the trailer over the winter.
Some time later, I pulled it apart to find the problem, at some point earlier to us acquiring it the motor had been submerged in water, and the brushes had rusted to the holder, and ceased to slide.
I attempted brake cleaner to get them out, but one of four brushes disintegrated. It might get fixed one day, but we ordered a new one.
Bit of chopping, handle moved, and welded back on, changed over the quick release hydraulic coupling, and made a mediocre but functional little enclosure for the command to live in.
Made a change.
The old electric hydraulic pump unit failed after we took the last boat out in autumn, it wasn't an issue, as the last boat stays on the trailer over the winter.
Some time later, I pulled it apart to find the problem, at some point earlier to us acquiring it the motor had been submerged in water, and the brushes had rusted to the holder, and ceased to slide.
I attempted brake cleaner to get them out, but one of four brushes disintegrated. It might get fixed one day, but we ordered a new one.
Bit of chopping, handle moved, and welded back on, changed over the quick release hydraulic coupling, and made a mediocre but functional little enclosure for the command to live in.
Made a change.
I've got to do this to a horsebox at some point, unfortunately flipping it wont be an option !
sako243
Member
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- My mansion in Wales
Flipping it is always an option, surviving it is a different matter.I've got to do this to a horsebox at some point, unfortunately flipping it wont be an option !
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Beat to the same answer.
sako243
Member
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- My mansion in Wales
Following on from the rewiring and a quick trip down to CLH to pick up a sheet of Buffalo board (has that got expensive recently!) to make the ramps and voila the inaugural run to test whether the tractor fits on the trailer. Not that I doubted @8ob's measurements but there is 2" of clearance
droopsnoot
Member
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- 1,084
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- South Cheshire, UK
My old-ish electric drill. I've done something to my newer one that means it needs a new rear bearing, and while they're only £1.99, the postage is twice that. So I thought I'd dig out the old drill, the one I replaced when it stopped working, find out what's up with it, then I could order parts for that at the same time and mitigate the postage cost.
I plugged it in and the issue was sparking and popping from the drill motor while running, so I stripped it down. I found a few little bits of metal inside the motor that looked a little bit like the horseshoe-shaped parts that spring off the sheet metal nibbler when I'm using that, so I pulled them out and put it back together, and it's fine now.
I wish I'd thought of doing that instead of just buying a new drill, all those years ago.
Now I need to find the other power drill that I'm pretty sure also needs a bearing somewhere. I had a quick look around the shed and can't see it anywhere, but I can't imagine I've thrown it out even if it doesn't work.
I plugged it in and the issue was sparking and popping from the drill motor while running, so I stripped it down. I found a few little bits of metal inside the motor that looked a little bit like the horseshoe-shaped parts that spring off the sheet metal nibbler when I'm using that, so I pulled them out and put it back together, and it's fine now.
I wish I'd thought of doing that instead of just buying a new drill, all those years ago.
Now I need to find the other power drill that I'm pretty sure also needs a bearing somewhere. I had a quick look around the shed and can't see it anywhere, but I can't imagine I've thrown it out even if it doesn't work.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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- ......
Not so much repaired. Improved.
Not fitted on the base model.
Desoldered the filled holes and installed a new socket.
Yes. It's upsidedown. Trimmed the connector and fitted it upsidedown.
Bought it blind as it's a pita to remove it from the rack
Internal scsi2sd cars fitted. SD card pretends to be 7 internals scsi hard drives.
Not fitted on the base model.
Desoldered the filled holes and installed a new socket.
Yes. It's upsidedown. Trimmed the connector and fitted it upsidedown.
Bought it blind as it's a pita to remove it from the rack
Internal scsi2sd cars fitted. SD card pretends to be 7 internals scsi hard drives.
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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- NE London - UK
Have you thought this through? Are you remaking the ribbon cable?
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
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- 16,441
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- ......
Thought what through?
No had a few cables kicking around and don't need to buy crimps etc
Just shaved the key off the connector as it fouled the motherboard inserting it upside down. There's a sticker informing any new owner of the fact.
Brad93
Member
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- Essex, United Kingdom
sparkysy
If it pays happy days!!
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- 1,193
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- northamptonshire
I have spent most of my day lay under my vivaro. Alternator went on me and hasn't been charging the battery at all. Only found out when it ground to a halt! Nearly 4 hours to swap it out in heavy wind with hail. Nearly every bolt has been replaced too as they were all corroded and tight as bu@@er to get off!
1 thing I found out is how much I love my Milwaukee 12v power ratchet and 18v impact driver, maximum respect to them both, couldn't of done it without them!!
Sy
1 thing I found out is how much I love my Milwaukee 12v power ratchet and 18v impact driver, maximum respect to them both, couldn't of done it without them!!
Sy
Ubique
Member
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- East Midlands
Well a proper retro job today, a misfire on a 1987 straight-six 190 2.6l ( I think!) TBH, I thought they'd all been scrapped by now!
It's far from 'concours condition'...
After a couple of minutes mentally rewinding back to the early 90's, I found the carbon brush had worn away and had been arcing onto the rotor arm, causing the misfire.
The spots are oil deposits, not water or coolant.
A new distributor cap is £105, rotor arm £74, Yes, I know it used to be £1.05 and 74p but they're hardly manufactured in any number these days...
The best part of the job was having to explain to the service receptionist what a distributor cap & rotor arm was, how it worked and why it caused a misfire.....
There's only two of us in the workshop that have actual experience of rotary ignition systems, a couple of the tech's had seen pictures at college though!
It's far from 'concours condition'...
After a couple of minutes mentally rewinding back to the early 90's, I found the carbon brush had worn away and had been arcing onto the rotor arm, causing the misfire.
The spots are oil deposits, not water or coolant.
A new distributor cap is £105, rotor arm £74, Yes, I know it used to be £1.05 and 74p but they're hardly manufactured in any number these days...
The best part of the job was having to explain to the service receptionist what a distributor cap & rotor arm was, how it worked and why it caused a misfire.....
There's only two of us in the workshop that have actual experience of rotary ignition systems, a couple of the tech's had seen pictures at college though!
Unbelievable lack of knowledge there by the garage. I remember many issues on my Austin Healey of miss fires when Lucas went over to 'Made in India' rotor arms - they used to break down electrically.
I always carried a hidden spare as that was one very effective security measure - remove the rotor arm and put it in your pocket. Work of a moment to remove / refit it.
Thinking about it I still have a complete rebuilt distributor assembly tucked away somewhere that I never used !
I always carried a hidden spare as that was one very effective security measure - remove the rotor arm and put it in your pocket. Work of a moment to remove / refit it.
Thinking about it I still have a complete rebuilt distributor assembly tucked away somewhere that I never used !
Ubique
Member
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- East Midlands
Not really, most vehicles we get in are 2000 onwards and have individual coil packs etc. the service receptionists do have a good grasp of most common cause & effect issues and they're not trained (or mostly, even interested in) basic combustion engine or EV systems - which is good for us because it means they don't 'pre-diagnose' or say stupid things to the drivers.
I remember the 'Intermotor' brand of ignition components, nice boxes but the contents were of variably poor 'quality'.... made Lucas occasionally look good!
