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Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- 12,922
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- France, Brittany.
So, I was asked to go change an impellor, on a small marine diesel engine in a sailing boat this morning.
Not really interesting, normally a ten minute job.
However sailing boats are really irritating to access the engines.
Down the steps, pull the steps out, access to the front of the engine, six hex bolts on the face plate, pop out impellor, replace impellor, replace gasket and faceplate... Take the money, plus time going there and back and runaway...
Oh no, not this morning.
Down steps, open lid on bottom step, 6" square hole.
Marine cooling pump visible with a torch.
Horror.
Cross head brass screws, painted over... Argghh.
Five out of six came out with only mild swearing.
No. 6 had been overtightened, and the cross head had been rounded out.
40 minutes later, two options :
Rip it off, and hope whatever's left can be tweaked out, with mini mole grips.
Or engine out.
Tried unscrewing it with my knipex adjustables, and after 45 minutes, victory.
Here's the little fellow.
Then they took me to lunch, yay !
Not really interesting, normally a ten minute job.
However sailing boats are really irritating to access the engines.
Down the steps, pull the steps out, access to the front of the engine, six hex bolts on the face plate, pop out impellor, replace impellor, replace gasket and faceplate... Take the money, plus time going there and back and runaway...
Oh no, not this morning.
Down steps, open lid on bottom step, 6" square hole.
Marine cooling pump visible with a torch.
Horror.
Cross head brass screws, painted over... Argghh.
Five out of six came out with only mild swearing.
No. 6 had been overtightened, and the cross head had been rounded out.
40 minutes later, two options :
Rip it off, and hope whatever's left can be tweaked out, with mini mole grips.
Or engine out.
Tried unscrewing it with my knipex adjustables, and after 45 minutes, victory.
Here's the little fellow.
Then they took me to lunch, yay !
At least it wasn't countersunk
Dcal
Member
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- 3,960
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Not today, I lost a data card and it's just turned up, but a couple of weeks ago I did a few more repairs on my late 80s MTD ride on.
The plastic nose section has always been loose and I botched it with mud guard washers which lasted fine for about 10 years.
As I had it apart for painting, I thought I'd I fix it properly because it would make it easier to take on and off (which you have to do if you want to work on the carb etc.)
On the bottom of the nose cone the mounting bolts holes had cracked or broken off.
I made up a couple of boxes out of 2mm plate and welded a couple of nuts to each.
Then cut out 2mm plate to strengthen the bottom of the nose cone.
I even gave them a blast and a lick of epoxy primer and 2K top coat.
Then stuck them on with sikaflex and a few stainless pop rivets.
These rivets are normally a pig to set but the air rivetter I got on here made short work of them, brilliant tool.
Then just bolted the nose cone on and let the polyurethane cure.
Should be good for another 10 or so years.
The plastic nose section has always been loose and I botched it with mud guard washers which lasted fine for about 10 years.
As I had it apart for painting, I thought I'd I fix it properly because it would make it easier to take on and off (which you have to do if you want to work on the carb etc.)
On the bottom of the nose cone the mounting bolts holes had cracked or broken off.
I made up a couple of boxes out of 2mm plate and welded a couple of nuts to each.
Then cut out 2mm plate to strengthen the bottom of the nose cone.
I even gave them a blast and a lick of epoxy primer and 2K top coat.
Then stuck them on with sikaflex and a few stainless pop rivets.
These rivets are normally a pig to set but the air rivetter I got on here made short work of them, brilliant tool.
Then just bolted the nose cone on and let the polyurethane cure.
Should be good for another 10 or so years.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- Location
- France, Brittany.
Don't bother with sikaflex in future, all modern PU gloops are as good and cheaper.
We only use proper sikaflex due to company policy on some bits. Ultra violet ness.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
I knew this plane needed some attention. I hoped it could be fixed and returned to service, only because it had a metal sole.
I knew it was bad.
I have fixed, what looked worse. But the screws are broken, the split runs the full length of the body. Only the metal sole is keeping it together.
So.
I took it apart and started fixing it.
It would be a good old fashioned plane, if it was not broken.
So, I pulled out a spare Boldrick and had a cunning plan.
I turned it into a plane plane.
But as it has no markings, no decorations is it a:
Plain plane plane?
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
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- 16,441
- Location
- ......
Grade 2. Same story. Faff all maintenance. Rotting away.
To this
To this
galooph
Forum Supporter
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- 774
- Location
- Alsager, UK
A temporary fix, at least 
The speedo on the Surf died, and judging from Surf forums, it's quite a common complaint. It's a doddle to remove the instrument cluster, so did that and extracted the speedo. I'd expected the electrolytic caps to be leaky, but they looked fine. Anyway, I had a good portion of the components knocking around, so replaced them anyway.
The dark spots on the bottom of the surface mount resistors are glue, don't often see that used in SMD assembly. I did find that one of the 1206 decoupling caps was cracked in two, so that won't have helped things.
Hooked it up to a pulse generator and cycled it up and down, all working nicely
Whacked it back in the truck, jacked up the rear axle, gave it a test – and it was now only intermittently dead
With it being an import, I'd expected to find a km/h to m/h pulse converter behind the dash, especially as there was a black sticker covering the 'k' of km/h on the speedo dial. Did a few more tests and confirmed that when the speedo 'died', it was due to a lack of pulses from the sensor on the transfer box.
Crawled underneath, started to trace back from the sensor, and found the pulse converter taped up with the wiring!
Who in their right mind thought that was a suitable place?! They'd soldered the connections to the loom, but just stuck a tiny bit of insulation tape over each connection. Decided to cut out the converter, and restore the loom back to how it was originally, just so that the speedo would work (albeit in km/h, for now). Snipped through the cables, started to strip them back, and saw the copper strands were all corroded – wonderful! Water must've wicked along the wires.
Ended up removing the plug from the sensor, de-pinned it, and soldered some new wires to the crimp terminals. One of the terminals had started to corrode inside the plug, as well. Also noticed that the locking tab was non-existent on the speed sensor socket! So now I have the plug with short lengths of wire attached, back under the truck to hook it up. After cutting back the wires of the loom a couple of times, they're all still corroded. No chance of soldering, so ended up using crimped splices, covered with adhesive lined heatshrink. Used a few cable ties to make sure the plug can't come off – the missing locking tab worried me.
A quick test drive, and thankfully, everything is working again, just in km/h.
Time to order a new sensor and plug, then I'll replace this whole section of loom properly. Just wish the original importer had done a proper job, not a bodge!
The speedo on the Surf died, and judging from Surf forums, it's quite a common complaint. It's a doddle to remove the instrument cluster, so did that and extracted the speedo. I'd expected the electrolytic caps to be leaky, but they looked fine. Anyway, I had a good portion of the components knocking around, so replaced them anyway.
The dark spots on the bottom of the surface mount resistors are glue, don't often see that used in SMD assembly. I did find that one of the 1206 decoupling caps was cracked in two, so that won't have helped things.
Hooked it up to a pulse generator and cycled it up and down, all working nicely
Whacked it back in the truck, jacked up the rear axle, gave it a test – and it was now only intermittently dead
With it being an import, I'd expected to find a km/h to m/h pulse converter behind the dash, especially as there was a black sticker covering the 'k' of km/h on the speedo dial. Did a few more tests and confirmed that when the speedo 'died', it was due to a lack of pulses from the sensor on the transfer box.
Crawled underneath, started to trace back from the sensor, and found the pulse converter taped up with the wiring!
Who in their right mind thought that was a suitable place?! They'd soldered the connections to the loom, but just stuck a tiny bit of insulation tape over each connection. Decided to cut out the converter, and restore the loom back to how it was originally, just so that the speedo would work (albeit in km/h, for now). Snipped through the cables, started to strip them back, and saw the copper strands were all corroded – wonderful! Water must've wicked along the wires.Ended up removing the plug from the sensor, de-pinned it, and soldered some new wires to the crimp terminals. One of the terminals had started to corrode inside the plug, as well. Also noticed that the locking tab was non-existent on the speed sensor socket! So now I have the plug with short lengths of wire attached, back under the truck to hook it up. After cutting back the wires of the loom a couple of times, they're all still corroded. No chance of soldering, so ended up using crimped splices, covered with adhesive lined heatshrink. Used a few cable ties to make sure the plug can't come off – the missing locking tab worried me.
A quick test drive, and thankfully, everything is working again, just in km/h.
Time to order a new sensor and plug, then I'll replace this whole section of loom properly. Just wish the original importer had done a proper job, not a bodge!
Luggsey
Member
- Messages
- 203
- Location
- Devon
I see capillary action of water in cables quite often, once had someone's TV aerial cable dumping water in their lounge from the roof!A temporary fix, at least
The speedo on the Surf died, and judging from Surf forums, it's quite a common complaint. It's a doddle to remove the instrument cluster, so did that and extracted the speedo. I'd expected the electrolytic caps to be leaky, but they looked fine. Anyway, I had a good portion of the components knocking around, so replaced them anyway.
View attachment 344288
The dark spots on the bottom of the surface mount resistors are glue, don't often see that used in SMD assembly. I did find that one of the 1206 decoupling caps was cracked in two, so that won't have helped things.
Hooked it up to a pulse generator and cycled it up and down, all working nicely
View attachment 344289
Whacked it back in the truck, jacked up the rear axle, gave it a test – and it was now only intermittently dead
With it being an import, I'd expected to find a km/h to m/h pulse converter behind the dash, especially as there was a black sticker covering the 'k' of km/h on the speedo dial. Did a few more tests and confirmed that when the speedo 'died', it was due to a lack of pulses from the sensor on the transfer box.
Crawled underneath, started to trace back from the sensor, and found the pulse converter taped up with the wiring!
View attachment 344290
Ended up removing the plug from the sensor, de-pinned it, and soldered some new wires to the crimp terminals. One of the terminals had started to corrode inside the plug, as well. Also noticed that the locking tab was non-existent on the speed sensor socket! So now I have the plug with short lengths of wire attached, back under the truck to hook it up. After cutting back the wires of the loom a couple of times, they're all still corroded. No chance of soldering, so ended up using crimped splices, covered with adhesive lined heatshrink. Used a few cable ties to make sure the plug can't come off – the missing locking tab worried me.
A quick test drive, and thankfully, everything is working again, just in km/h.
Time to order a new sensor and plug, then I'll replace this whole section of loom properly. Just wish the original importer had done a proper job, not a bodge!
Yesterday I replaced the remaining 24 tubes in the main workshop - some amazingly inaccessible over various machines - in fact the four that span over the Beaver CNC lathe one needed to walk on top of the machine enclosure. To my great surprise the wife volunteered which probably a very good thing as she must weigh about half of what I do !
. . . only another 41 to go in various other outbuildings and workshops but in all likelihood I'll leave them as they are 'occasional use' only.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- Scottish Highlands
It all makes work for the working man to do [well, at least according to Flanders & Swan]Just wish the original importer had done a proper job, not a bodge!
Good result there, though!
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Yesterday, at MIS and my place, we used the laminated sheets on tool restoration.
This are some of the results.
Both heads were loose, so they were removed, handles cleaned up. The heads were then refitted.
This spear and Jackson Bolster was well used.
It is now had the cutting edge rounded over and made into a carpet Bolster.
Now this looks like a old screwdriver, but it has a lot of history.
It is Ex-WD and is from a Vickers Machine Gun Service kit.
New beech handle fitted with a hot tang into sulpher.
This Record small Spoke Shave just needed a clean up.
All done with now power tools.
A cutting edge was put onto the blade with a old hand cranked wet stone.
All done.
This are some of the results.
Both heads were loose, so they were removed, handles cleaned up. The heads were then refitted.
This spear and Jackson Bolster was well used.
It is now had the cutting edge rounded over and made into a carpet Bolster.
Now this looks like a old screwdriver, but it has a lot of history.
It is Ex-WD and is from a Vickers Machine Gun Service kit.
New beech handle fitted with a hot tang into sulpher.
This Record small Spoke Shave just needed a clean up.
All done with now power tools.
A cutting edge was put onto the blade with a old hand cranked wet stone.
All done.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,627
- Location
- Going Away.
Nice Little Mamod came my way, missing the burner and I was told it had an issue.
The issue was it would lock up every now and then.
Stripped it down and could find nothing wrong. It would spin freely and run nicly on compressed air. But with steam it would lock up.
The pop rivet that holds the saddle in place would work lose in the heat and allow it to move. Thus making the engine lock.
I even located a norrow burner for it.
Blobber
Member
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- 2,525
- Location
- lincolnshire
So it starts with "can I bring a screwdriver in" which doesnt really narrow the job down, turns out the IEC socket on the side of the grooming table has been mysteriously smashed off! not much chance of getting one on a bank holiday weekend but luckily it was only the flange broken off so I cable tied the plug and remains of the socket together and poked it all back in the hole with a cable tie for strain relief until I can order another
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
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- 16,441
- Location
- ......
Got a box full of em here.
Another delayed job. Got a load of corded gear I want to swap to them.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,287
- Location
- North Lincs
I was given this Eclipse 312 adjustable angle plate as it was 'seized and rusty'
10 minutes later it is free and moves nicely. I plan on using it so no refurb (it does have a few 'apprentice' marks!).
10 minutes later it is free and moves nicely. I plan on using it so no refurb (it does have a few 'apprentice' marks!).
.
Blobber
Member
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- 2,525
- Location
- lincolnshire
Thats the thing I know ive got some somewhere in the "stuff i might need box" just not sure where the box is!
well, It looks like my reputation is spreading. I was asked to look at an 8mph mobility scooter today. Split rims had come loose and one of the wheels was looking as if it was going to fall off. Nuts replaced with nylocs and all wheel nuts tightened and a headlight switch replaced. Job done.
