silly question maybe, but if its still going strong why is it being retired? surely a good engine is worth keeping going? or is the whole boat off to the wreckers?
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Company policy.
Change it before it dies.
Means we have a spare in stock, in case of emergencies.
ahh so its not going away, just sitting waiting for its chance to be a hero once more.... I like this more than the idea of it going to the tip or becoming a boat anchor ( or trendy coffee table)
Blue Chips
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- Maine, USA
I think that's good policy to swap the engine for a new or otherwise improved unit before it reaches its projected MTBF. Better not to have a failure in some potentially dangerous (or embarrassing or expensive) situation, plus if it's still running well, it would make a good candidate for an overhaul or rebuild/reman since it hasn't suffered any catastrophic failure.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
But of fun today.
Took this nice item and gave it some love.
A dip in hot caustic and a boil in water had the old paint and oil off.
The dies are still sharp. Even througth there is some rust pitting on all of them.
American made.
Theses 4 items of wood were saved from the wood pile.
A pipe vice can be used for many things.
You can see the dirt being removed, by hand.
This image is for 2 reasons. One to show how much dirt was on the item and what it was hiding.
Two, the clean the wood I had to make a scaper to suit, as 3 of the four sides have a machined concaved finish.
The owners name was found.
As was the makers name and address.
Finished.
No power tools used.
But lots of wax.
Took this nice item and gave it some love.
A dip in hot caustic and a boil in water had the old paint and oil off.
The dies are still sharp. Even througth there is some rust pitting on all of them.
American made.
Theses 4 items of wood were saved from the wood pile.
A pipe vice can be used for many things.
You can see the dirt being removed, by hand.
This image is for 2 reasons. One to show how much dirt was on the item and what it was hiding.
Two, the clean the wood I had to make a scaper to suit, as 3 of the four sides have a machined concaved finish.
The owners name was found.
As was the makers name and address.
Finished.
No power tools used.
But lots of wax.
Extensive Ducati wiring repairs, fork seals on a 1968 T100 Triumph and ZZR1100 valve clearances amongst other stuff.
The ZZR was a rare one, all 16 valves needed re-shimming, all below minimum clearance!. Ended up at maximum clearance when I'd finished with it.
The ZZR was a rare one, all 16 valves needed re-shimming, all below minimum clearance!. Ended up at maximum clearance when I'd finished with it.
A couple of weeks ago, and also yesterday's project was some repairs on our disc harrows. These Hooper Suncrodiscs we just got second hand from a local market gardener, as the old ones I repaired were still not super reliable and this was also much bigger and much more heavily built. It also provided the ideal excuse for Dave the sharemilker to get approval of the Financial Controller for a new - to - him low hours 175hp New Holland tractor with more electronics and buttons than the space shuttle. These discs needed all the pwoer to tow them and the "little" 115hp tractor would not have done it.
The disc behind the welder in the pic above was broken so a new one of those. Who was the monkey who welds the nut on the end of the axle? Managed to grind off the weld and get the bits out with the die grinder enough to unscrew the nut without completely destryoing the M39 nut and thread. Nut replaced with loctite so it can come off again with some heat. It did 18 ha this year with no issues so loctite 243 seems to be ok. My new 1m power bar and 70mm socket came in handy.
There is a broken disc at the back as well, except that heems to have had the axle mangled at some stage so the square drive section is to short to pick up the end flange on the disc. Works well enough without it for now until I can get some motivation and spend some time and maybe make new parts.
Next part was to fit a jack stand. The towing tongue is heavy and drops to the ground, which makes it a 2 person job to fit to the tractor, including sometimes using the other tractor to lift it up.
The towing eye was very worn, by around 20mm, and while there was still a bit of metal left, it would not be good if it let go.
I forged up a cresent moon piece from 25*30 mild steel, ground it out and welded it in, then played mad dentist with the die grinder to blend it in to a smooth curve.
Who says blacksmithing is obselete in the 21st century?
The disc behind the welder in the pic above was broken so a new one of those. Who was the monkey who welds the nut on the end of the axle? Managed to grind off the weld and get the bits out with the die grinder enough to unscrew the nut without completely destryoing the M39 nut and thread. Nut replaced with loctite so it can come off again with some heat. It did 18 ha this year with no issues so loctite 243 seems to be ok. My new 1m power bar and 70mm socket came in handy.
There is a broken disc at the back as well, except that heems to have had the axle mangled at some stage so the square drive section is to short to pick up the end flange on the disc. Works well enough without it for now until I can get some motivation and spend some time and maybe make new parts.
Next part was to fit a jack stand. The towing tongue is heavy and drops to the ground, which makes it a 2 person job to fit to the tractor, including sometimes using the other tractor to lift it up.
The towing eye was very worn, by around 20mm, and while there was still a bit of metal left, it would not be good if it let go.
I forged up a cresent moon piece from 25*30 mild steel, ground it out and welded it in, then played mad dentist with the die grinder to blend it in to a smooth curve.
Who says blacksmithing is obselete in the 21st century?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,623
- Location
- Going Away.
I got this tank a few weeks ago.
I soon found out it needed a bit of work.
The note that came with it.
Some one had poped the top in the past, as the amount of glue shows.
The Clock work motor was removed and given a full service and the main spring fixed into the correct place.
Fully working. S it rives along the yellow plastic get shot out. They have a range of 12"
Olderisbetter
Member
- Messages
- 3,741
- Location
- Wolverhampton
A really tatty morris minor wing, covered in old rags and cling wrap with thinners added, after 3 days it came up on with a stripping disc, it is going to be wall art so no need to be perfect.
Danez
Never late in a V8!
- Messages
- 533
- Location
- Lancashire, England
replaced the spark plugs on the jaaag, fixing the cylinder 3 misfire (for now..)
decided to tackle the most awkward one first and it was properly seized in there. left them all to soak in some penetrating oil and they all came out like a dream
was a bit red though.. all the others were white, anyone know what this means?
this side was a doddle in comparison lol
decided to tackle the most awkward one first and it was properly seized in there. left them all to soak in some penetrating oil and they all came out like a dream
was a bit red though.. all the others were white, anyone know what this means?
this side was a doddle in comparison lol
MattF
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- 16,608
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- South Yorkshire
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- 622
- Location
- Maine, USA
Here's yet another vintage level I've gussied up a bit.
I had restored a 24" Stanley No. 237 adjustable aluminum level a little while ago, and this is the same model, but only 18” long. Like the previous one, this tool may be over 100 years old. I picked it up for about $16 and spent roughly two hours cleaning, burnishing, adjusting, and painting (not counting the time I left the frame soaking in paint remover). Two of the bubble vials were spot on, and I only had to adjust one of the plumb vials to get it perfect. To adjust it, I inserted a small piece of 0.0015” brass shim stock between the vial tube and one of the mounting bosses before tightening the tapered mounting screws. Alternatively, I suppose I could have filed one of the mounting bosses, but I didn’t want to alter the frame. All three vials are accurate now.
I had restored a 24" Stanley No. 237 adjustable aluminum level a little while ago, and this is the same model, but only 18” long. Like the previous one, this tool may be over 100 years old. I picked it up for about $16 and spent roughly two hours cleaning, burnishing, adjusting, and painting (not counting the time I left the frame soaking in paint remover). Two of the bubble vials were spot on, and I only had to adjust one of the plumb vials to get it perfect. To adjust it, I inserted a small piece of 0.0015” brass shim stock between the vial tube and one of the mounting bosses before tightening the tapered mounting screws. Alternatively, I suppose I could have filed one of the mounting bosses, but I didn’t want to alter the frame. All three vials are accurate now.
Cab light in my JCB 3CX not working. There is a perminant 12v feed to the cab roof for it, various Beacon sockets, and the wiper motor 'home' contact. Fed from a 10 amp fuse the loom goes EVERYWHERE. It's taken two whole days to trace it's route, expose the loom and fix it. Loads of plastic trim in the cab, rear wheel off (b.....y heavy) - dead simple technically but an absolute pain, helped by my Tone Tracer.
First break found over chassis leg behind rear wheel - cable badly sulphated so had to be replaced from up under the floor behind the loading shovel control cover and forward along the chassis leg to where it goes up the cab frame. External loom protected by self amalgamating tape and Hellerman Spiral Cable Protector.
First break found over chassis leg behind rear wheel - cable badly sulphated so had to be replaced from up under the floor behind the loading shovel control cover and forward along the chassis leg to where it goes up the cab frame. External loom protected by self amalgamating tape and Hellerman Spiral Cable Protector.
slim_boy_fat
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- Scottish Highlands
^^ I thought you were supposed to be 'resting'.....
another 'repair cafe' job. feet were loose and the brass channel had split. Didn't attempt to straighten the feet as they were cast and was worried that we would crack them. Client happy with that and a good donation to the group.
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- Manchester UK
^^ I thought you were supposed to be 'resting'.....
I am. Sort of...................
