- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Rebuilt my friends Variable Vane Turbo on Monday night with a new CHRA.
It was a bit of a state and I had to shim the Variable Vane plate to stop the Vanes binding (took me 3 hours in total as you shouldn't have to do that!).
Told him to try it and we may have to take turbo out of car again if it didn't boost properly but got a message last night that all is well!.
Nice to help others out, even when it takes a turn for the worse, he's helped us out so favours for favours..
It was a bit of a state and I had to shim the Variable Vane plate to stop the Vanes binding (took me 3 hours in total as you shouldn't have to do that!).
Told him to try it and we may have to take turbo out of car again if it didn't boost properly but got a message last night that all is well!.
Nice to help others out, even when it takes a turn for the worse, he's helped us out so favours for favours..
Olderisbetter
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Next door the window was falling out and the draft was a joke for a modern double glazed unit, i did the brick sill and left the young one to do the temporary refit till the new window arrives.
Tell me more about this tone tracer! Christmas is coming & it sounds like a useful gizmo to have.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I've got a couple, both pretty cheap ones but do the job. Fluke are about £180 plus I believe but you can get them from ten quid upwards.
When I worked for BT 30+ years ago, they were nick named "knockers", not because of the shape, but the sounds they sent out, I think they were made by Wayne Kerr, be careful when you ask for Wayne Kerr Knockers
The BT ones sent out a tone, you clipped the croc clips of the sender to the pair of wires you wanted to trace, You then took the receiver to the far end and used the probe to find the likely pair, there was a speaker on the receiver or you could use headphones. stick the probe in the bunch of wires, it relatively easy to whittle them down to find the most likely pair a the tone is louder. if you shorted out the pair then the tone would stop, it it wasn't the correct pair it would continue.
The cheapy ones I have are a bit carp around the PP3 battery area, but they work and I only use them once or twice a year. I would buy a better set if I used the regularly. Some have CAT5 testing built in too. Loads on Farnell to look at if you scroll down. https://cpc.farnell.com/extech-instruments/tg20/wire-tracer-tone-generator/dp/IN07182
just found one the ones I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telephone-Detecting-Determination-Diagnose-Networking/dp/B01L8EWWP2 Works ok once you wiggle the battery a bit.
It puts a tone on a wire that you can detect with its probe - very handy - I got mine second and on eBay but RS sell them.
James1979
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I’ve also been looking into these since they were mentioned ^^^It puts a tone on a wire that you can detect with its probe - very handy - I got mine second and on eBay but RS sell them.
View attachment 372008
How would that fare on a modern vehicle with CANBUS and lots of ECUs? I’m thinking about frying things or wouldn’t that be an issue?
greenlee i think the newer bt ones are.I've got a couple, both pretty cheap ones but do the job. Fluke are about £180 plus I believe but you can get them from ten quid upwards.
When I worked for BT 30+ years ago, they were nick named "knockers", not because of the shape, but the sounds they sent out, I think they were made by Wayne Kerr, be careful when you ask for Wayne Kerr Knockers
The BT ones sent out a tone, you clipped the croc clips of the sender to the pair of wires you wanted to trace, You then took the receiver to the far end and used the probe to find the likely pair, there was a speaker on the receiver or you could use headphones. stick the probe in the bunch of wires, it relatively easy to whittle them down to find the most likely pair a the tone is louder. if you shorted out the pair then the tone would stop, it it wasn't the correct pair it would continue.
The cheapy ones I have are a bit carp around the PP3 battery area, but they work and I only use them once or twice a year. I would buy a better set if I used the regularly. Some have CAT5 testing built in too. Loads on Farnell to look at if you scroll down. https://cpc.farnell.com/extech-instruments/tg20/wire-tracer-tone-generator/dp/IN07182
just found one the ones I have https://www.amazon.co.uk/Telephone-Detecting-Determination-Diagnose-Networking/dp/B01L8EWWP2 Works ok once you wiggle the battery a bit.
the chesilvale 287 (the old bt G type) combined with a greenlee 500 digi pickup. they're the loudest combination. it'll do a 5-6 miler no problem
hear it on the outside sheath without taking anything apart. knowing which one to take apart.
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I first came across them tracing signal wires in industrial control computer systems but also in Cat5/6 cable networks. I dont think the 'transmitter' puts any DC on the line - presumably it is capacitively coupled internally so the 'output' leads just have an ac tone on them. Never tried on CANBUS - never had a vehicle modern enough to have CANBUS !!!!!
Mick Annick
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Was trawling the internet only last night looking for one of those for sale.
This one sounded lovely with the exhausts, not too loud just right.
I have a soft spot for the UCE EFI Royal Enfields, have the classic look but with a modern twist.
Saying that it's nice to work on classics as well, a fair bit of history behind them.
Mick Annick
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I had a new W800 for a while bit couldn’t get on with it, ended up giving it to my son, but still hanker after a road bike.
Mick Annick
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Gives the engine quite a distinctive look too. A friend here has one - he repainted the tank and badged it up as a BSA, full ‘distressed’ look to it to make it appear older, it fooled everyone at the cafe we go to on a Saturday morning until I grassed on him, he sulked for months and wouldn’t speak to me
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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"Oh yeah, it's a factory prototype, never got past the testing stage, my old man got it when the works closed down."Gives the engine quite a distinctive look too. A friend here has one - he repainted the tank and badged it up as a BSA, full ‘distressed’ look to it to make it appear older, it fooled everyone at the cafe we go to on a Saturday morning until I grassed on him, he sulked for months and wouldn’t speak to me
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Use them as mould forms for casting poured aluminium , they should give you a decent bar to play with if you have a lathe.
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Had a tussle sorting out a broken pop up bathroom sink drain plug
Put in place 15 years ago by a " professional plumber " ( BTD!)
Thought it strange that the silicone washers for in the sink and above the retaining nut were missing and had been " sorted with bathroom sealer ".
Found this nipped nylon washer inside silicone under the top rim of the plug .
( current one is 17 yrs. old , now has peeling plastic veneers , is partly made of compressed cardboard end panels & trimmings with almost worn through work tops that have slightly bubbled at the routed in joints
Horror of horrors, the expanded foam was about five inches in diameter and also sticking to the sink encasing the waste pipe.
Even worse, the through the wall waste pipe was about 14 degrees from square to the wall and angled down to outside by a good 12 mm
Having cleaned everything up I set the new drain in place only to find that the pipe work was 6 mm up and to the right of the through the wall pipe outlet . It leaked like the Mohna Dam,
The final join at the wall was barely engaged.
Inside the half pedestal he'd stuffed a 2/3 toilet roll to soak up leaks. Blek ! ... It fell apart in my hands,
No wonder the bathroom always had a fusty smell to it .
Things got difficult, I'm disabled down my left side, are floating in & out of diabetic hyperglycemia so can't drive till it's better controlled (2 weeks???)
The external pipe through the wall he'd used is solvent plastic joinable, the internals are B&Q oily nylon rubbish.
To try and make an adaptor / joiner was crazy, nothing in the mancupboard or the scrap pile was in size to make a sleeve if I cut the down pipe to make a slightly over size adjustable joint.
Was just about to give up when I spied two extension tubes off an old up right vacuum cleaner hose. Found one end that accepted the nozzle was a fraction bigger, , cut off a 75 mm length, found it was too small at the cut end by 1 mm to take the other part of the cut down tube.
Popped into the kitchen and poured a litre kettle of boiling water over everything in the pan left it for a few seconds to soften up then slapped them together with ease, , ran a bead of external weatherproof mastic round the edges of the divided parts & added three layers of self-amalgamating tape over everything to contain it and make a good joint. Fitted it back together and did a proof of the pudding test, only to find water was peeking out from somewhere.
Arragh! ,,
Looked at the photos & saw the actual plug unit wasn't sitting properly in the sink tightening everything up had pulled it way out of alignment
Knackered .....I've given up for the day, shoving a bucket under it to catch the leakage.
Tomorrow, I hope to be fit enough to dismantle it again put the mastic sealant under the rim of the plug unit & on the other side of that sealing washer, add a bead to the porcelain on both inside & outsid of the sink , then lube up the tread and nut with silicone grease and reconnect everything again.
Hopefully that will fix it, otherwise I'll have to wait till Monday to go to a plumber's merchant and buy some proper waste fittings and solvent joints. etc to do a proper job.
Thank God I've got a magic master cutter so I can slice off some of the old outer waste pipe to get a clean fit.
e
Put in place 15 years ago by a " professional plumber " ( BTD!)
Thought it strange that the silicone washers for in the sink and above the retaining nut were missing and had been " sorted with bathroom sealer ".
Found this nipped nylon washer inside silicone under the top rim of the plug .
( current one is 17 yrs. old , now has peeling plastic veneers , is partly made of compressed cardboard end panels & trimmings with almost worn through work tops that have slightly bubbled at the routed in joints
Horror of horrors, the expanded foam was about five inches in diameter and also sticking to the sink encasing the waste pipe.
Even worse, the through the wall waste pipe was about 14 degrees from square to the wall and angled down to outside by a good 12 mm
Having cleaned everything up I set the new drain in place only to find that the pipe work was 6 mm up and to the right of the through the wall pipe outlet . It leaked like the Mohna Dam,
The final join at the wall was barely engaged.
Inside the half pedestal he'd stuffed a 2/3 toilet roll to soak up leaks. Blek ! ... It fell apart in my hands,
No wonder the bathroom always had a fusty smell to it .
Things got difficult, I'm disabled down my left side, are floating in & out of diabetic hyperglycemia so can't drive till it's better controlled (2 weeks???)
The external pipe through the wall he'd used is solvent plastic joinable, the internals are B&Q oily nylon rubbish.
To try and make an adaptor / joiner was crazy, nothing in the mancupboard or the scrap pile was in size to make a sleeve if I cut the down pipe to make a slightly over size adjustable joint.
Was just about to give up when I spied two extension tubes off an old up right vacuum cleaner hose. Found one end that accepted the nozzle was a fraction bigger, , cut off a 75 mm length, found it was too small at the cut end by 1 mm to take the other part of the cut down tube.
Popped into the kitchen and poured a litre kettle of boiling water over everything in the pan left it for a few seconds to soften up then slapped them together with ease, , ran a bead of external weatherproof mastic round the edges of the divided parts & added three layers of self-amalgamating tape over everything to contain it and make a good joint. Fitted it back together and did a proof of the pudding test, only to find water was peeking out from somewhere.
Arragh! ,,
Looked at the photos & saw the actual plug unit wasn't sitting properly in the sink tightening everything up had pulled it way out of alignment
Knackered .....I've given up for the day, shoving a bucket under it to catch the leakage.
Tomorrow, I hope to be fit enough to dismantle it again put the mastic sealant under the rim of the plug unit & on the other side of that sealing washer, add a bead to the porcelain on both inside & outsid of the sink , then lube up the tread and nut with silicone grease and reconnect everything again.
Hopefully that will fix it, otherwise I'll have to wait till Monday to go to a plumber's merchant and buy some proper waste fittings and solvent joints. etc to do a proper job.
Thank God I've got a magic master cutter so I can slice off some of the old outer waste pipe to get a clean fit.
e
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Eveyday is a school day.
Again through MIS I was helping a possible new member learn that they can do stuff. No one will be cross if things go "wonky". The "nurse" will not panic. But will make coffee for me and sugar water for you.
This hammer was mine for pennies.
It has bean abused in it's life.
No power tools were allowed on this job. So it was done my hand tools.
I did speed up the cleaning with a bench grinder.
One wonky moment. To much wax was applied.
Bit of gold leaf bling.
All done.
Again through MIS I was helping a possible new member learn that they can do stuff. No one will be cross if things go "wonky". The "nurse" will not panic. But will make coffee for me and sugar water for you.
This hammer was mine for pennies.
It has bean abused in it's life.
No power tools were allowed on this job. So it was done my hand tools.
I did speed up the cleaning with a bench grinder.
One wonky moment. To much wax was applied.
Bit of gold leaf bling.
All done.
