Even a diagram on which way to wrap it - I tried explaining to an apprentice a long time ago which direction to wrap as he was having issues . . . maybe I spoke Yorkshire or summat as he just looked befuddled . . . I can't remember anyone ever explaining it - it just seemed obvious after the first attempt at the wrong way.
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
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It's fairly common sense with pipe fittings, if there's a taper, that's the seal, no tape required, if it leaks the taper face is damaged, could be either side, I lost a whole bottle of argon once because I didn't check the bottle taper which had a gouge in it. I always check both and spray with soapy water/leak detector spray before leaving them now.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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The bathroom door lock sliding bold knob kept `coming loose often with the knob with or without the locating threaded bit falling out to add insult to injury . Niot a problem when ther is just the teo of us her but somewhat awkward when our very fit female Ukrainian refugee house guest (
37 yrs old ) is starkers in the wet room where the only toilet in the bungalow is .I tried matching the thread with something out my small bolt & screw drawer, but nothing fitted well.
1/4 Whitworth is the nearest thread size fit to both the slider and the drilling in the knob
I ended up using a counter sink headed full thread screw , grinding off nearly all teh diameter of thenscrew head so it fitted nicely inthe intrertnal guide slot in the main body, so just sufficient metal was remaining to prevent the screw being wound right through slider bar
I checked it was a viable fit took, it back out and cut the thread to size some 8 mm longer than the bit of thread in the lower photo.
.
Reassembling the lock, I put a few drops of green Loctite on the thread by the screw head, wound it fully into the slider bar then put a few drops down in the knobs threaded hole.
Tightened it up with pliers and refitted the modified lock back on the bathroom door.
Olha saw what I'd done. giving me a beaming smile and a thumbs up.
On seeing the exchange Alison my wife broke into fits of giggles, " You wouldn't know what to do or where to start if you did walk in on her again" she giggled .
She might be right I'm 72 in a few days' time, I don't know if my heart could stand it. 
James1979
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View attachment 375676
very fit female Ukrainian refugee house guest (
View attachment 375677
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Is he a mate of yours?
James1979
Member
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I know a Norbert or two.
redlig
Member
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It's not your heart you've got to worry about.View attachment 375676
The bathroom door lock sliding bold knob kept `coming loose often with the knob with or without the locating threaded bit falling out to add insult to injury . Niot a problem when ther is just the teo of us her but somewhat awkward when our very fit female Ukrainian refugee house guest (
I tried matching the thread with something out my small bolt & screw drawer, but nothing fitted well.
1/4 Whitworth is the nearest thread size fit to both the slider and the drilling in the knob
I ended up using a counter sink headed full thread screw , grinding off nearly all teh diameter of thenscrew head so it fitted nicely inthe intrertnal guide slot in the main body, so just sufficient metal was remaining to prevent the screw being wound right through slider bar
I checked it was a viable fit took, it back out and cut the thread to size some 8 mm longer than the bit of thread in the lower photo.
.
Reassembling the lock, I put a few drops of green Loctite on the thread by the screw head, wound it fully into the slider bar then put a few drops down in the knobs threaded hole.
Tightened it up with pliers and refitted the modified lock back on the bathroom door.
Olha saw what I'd done. giving me a beaming smile and a thumbs up.
On seeing the exchange Alison my wife broke into fits of giggles, " You wouldn't know what to do or where to start if you did walk in on her again" she giggled .
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
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- Maine, USA
I finally got around to replacing the backhoe boom latch (aka, travel lock) on my 1987 Case 480E.
At some time in the distant past and under the care of some previous owner, the latch had apparently cracked and someone had welded it (NOT ME). The weld itself actually looked pretty decent, but whoever welded it didn't set it up properly before welding, so it ended up with an elongated opening that was about 5/32" too long in one direction. The result of the extra clearance was that the boom would bang back and forth a lot when I drove Mr. Case around. I was always afraid that the latch would eventually break from all of the clanging and banging, although I've owned Mr. Case for about 14 years, so it probably would have broken by now if it was going to, but still...
After some searching and phone calls, I found what was evidently an NOS latch for a halfway reasonable price. Here's the old latch compared to the replacement latch:
As usual, when I repair or replace a part, I like to clean up the surrounding area and perhaps dab on a lick of paint. I installed a couple of new strips of reinforced rubber (similar to the original strips) to serve as what I would call a 'spring' for the latch, as well as a new heavy-duty snap ring. The resulting clearance between the latch and the vertical latch pin on the swing tower pivot was much better, but I also improved the alignment of the latch with the vertical pin by installing a thicker shim washer between one side of the boom and the swing tower to shift the boom laterally about 1/16 inch.
It was a royal PITA to make what seemed (to me) like micro-adjustments to get everything aligned adequately to be able to slide the hefty boom-to-swing-tower pin back in again after swapping the shim washer, but it all turned out well.
Anyway, there is MUCH less banging around now when the boom is locked into its travel position.
By the way, while I was at it, I also installed six new hydraulic hoses and re-coated some of the hose-holding clamps with rubber, but I won't bother to describe that bit of maintenance in detail.
At some time in the distant past and under the care of some previous owner, the latch had apparently cracked and someone had welded it (NOT ME). The weld itself actually looked pretty decent, but whoever welded it didn't set it up properly before welding, so it ended up with an elongated opening that was about 5/32" too long in one direction. The result of the extra clearance was that the boom would bang back and forth a lot when I drove Mr. Case around. I was always afraid that the latch would eventually break from all of the clanging and banging, although I've owned Mr. Case for about 14 years, so it probably would have broken by now if it was going to, but still...
After some searching and phone calls, I found what was evidently an NOS latch for a halfway reasonable price. Here's the old latch compared to the replacement latch:
As usual, when I repair or replace a part, I like to clean up the surrounding area and perhaps dab on a lick of paint. I installed a couple of new strips of reinforced rubber (similar to the original strips) to serve as what I would call a 'spring' for the latch, as well as a new heavy-duty snap ring. The resulting clearance between the latch and the vertical latch pin on the swing tower pivot was much better, but I also improved the alignment of the latch with the vertical pin by installing a thicker shim washer between one side of the boom and the swing tower to shift the boom laterally about 1/16 inch.
It was a royal PITA to make what seemed (to me) like micro-adjustments to get everything aligned adequately to be able to slide the hefty boom-to-swing-tower pin back in again after swapping the shim washer, but it all turned out well.
Anyway, there is MUCH less banging around now when the boom is locked into its travel position.
By the way, while I was at it, I also installed six new hydraulic hoses and re-coated some of the hose-holding clamps with rubber, but I won't bother to describe that bit of maintenance in detail.
Gragson
Member
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- Bucks
Reminded by a post from Welderpaul asking about wood for cast iron bench, decided to spruce this up, nothing special but had it about 30odd years and been through 4 sets of pine slats
Pretty rotten again and a bit dangerous even for my dainty harris - not
Per advice from @eLuSiVeMiTe and @slim_boy_fat got some shaped sapele hard wood which should last a lot longer I hope.
Gave 6 generous wipes with old school outdoor danish oil, came out nice.
Cut up some brass tube and pressed in for brass fasteners, not sure if that was a good idea or necessary but looked good.
Want to avoid water pooling so decided not to countersink the holes for the fasteners as did previously which rotted out.
The cast iron was a bit shabby tho the fake verdi gris has held up well. After a power wash waxed the arms, which then showed up the rest, so ended up doing all of it zzzzzzz
Realised I did not have enough sapele to do the L/R infills
so used some oak which is clearly different, convinced myself this is now an intentional "feature"
The hardwood has made it extremely stiff and it was a bit unforgiving bolting up, but it is super solid and even bloody heavier.
This was taken 21 years ago, it looked knackered then moved it outside and tried to get another photo of them on it - not a chance
Pretty rotten again and a bit dangerous even for my dainty harris - not
Per advice from @eLuSiVeMiTe and @slim_boy_fat got some shaped sapele hard wood which should last a lot longer I hope.
Gave 6 generous wipes with old school outdoor danish oil, came out nice.
Cut up some brass tube and pressed in for brass fasteners, not sure if that was a good idea or necessary but looked good.
Want to avoid water pooling so decided not to countersink the holes for the fasteners as did previously which rotted out.
The cast iron was a bit shabby tho the fake verdi gris has held up well. After a power wash waxed the arms, which then showed up the rest, so ended up doing all of it zzzzzzz
Realised I did not have enough sapele to do the L/R infills
so used some oak which is clearly different, convinced myself this is now an intentional "feature"The hardwood has made it extremely stiff and it was a bit unforgiving bolting up, but it is super solid and even bloody heavier.
This was taken 21 years ago, it looked knackered then
moved it outside and tried to get another photo of them on it - not a chance
Tangledfeet
Knurling is my Nemesis.
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The diarrhea I had overnight and this morning; day off work.
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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TMI.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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If that is his food intake, what did he think?
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- UK
Less fixed, more serviced as part of fault finding. The pellet boiler is poorly again. This time it keeps tripping the RCD. The usual culprit is the igniter. Here it is with the cover on it.
I thought it might be a bespoke item being an Austrian boiler. But once I got the cover off it turned out to be hot air gun made by Leister.
So I took it apart. The element was about 34 ohms so that's good, but full of dust so blew it out with the air line.
Its 1600W and costs about 70 quid to replace, but looks ok. The brushes in the motor were less than half worn, I gave that a bit of a clean then cleaned the photo transistor that is part of the overheat control.
Back together and the RCD still goes pop. I thought the boiler wouldn't start if the igniter wasn't present, but obviously no POST check as it booted without the igniter. But the RCD still goes pop so the main fan is the next suspect.
I thought it might be a bespoke item being an Austrian boiler. But once I got the cover off it turned out to be hot air gun made by Leister.
So I took it apart. The element was about 34 ohms so that's good, but full of dust so blew it out with the air line.
Its 1600W and costs about 70 quid to replace, but looks ok. The brushes in the motor were less than half worn, I gave that a bit of a clean then cleaned the photo transistor that is part of the overheat control.
Back together and the RCD still goes pop. I thought the boiler wouldn't start if the igniter wasn't present, but obviously no POST check as it booted without the igniter. But the RCD still goes pop so the main fan is the next suspect.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
That's very interesting ,having just read up on it.
So if you wanted to. you could remove doors and skirtings lay GSHP heating pipes on a non insulated floor , pump in 60mm covering then fit new skirting and cut the tops & bottoms of the doors to get them to fit the slightkly smaller frames instead of having to chop out the floors and put in a deep thermal floor .
Perhaps even being able to do the same on broken screeded floors , "Like wot we ave ere ". or pop & remove the screed and do the same .
