James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,434
- Location
- Orkney
How can they build a virus that outlives a damn moped!
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
finyuk2005
Member
- Messages
- 737
the same way we grow a cabbage that outlasts a prime minister?
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
- Messages
- 2,735
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
Fixed my car stuff box, has straps tape, bulbs etc in, but the latch broke recently, cue some cheap stainless latches from the bay of eee and some rivets.
No more stuff escaping whenever I go round a corner!!
No more stuff escaping whenever I go round a corner!!
James1979
Member
- Messages
- 8,434
- Location
- Orkney
It’s like the mechanic version of those A&E horror storiesWell how about that, a 25W SBC candle lamp is the perfect size to stop the oil leaking out of the drive shaft seal on a Discovery 2, PM me for prices on this very special tool that you wont find in the Snappoff catalogue!!
View attachment 386625
I was using a lightbulb to seal up a drive shaft and slipped…….
Blobber
Member
- Messages
- 2,629
- Location
- lincolnshire
That is genius mate
I am thinking of a modified version with lampholder and flex to aid recovery if it slips inside!It’s like the mechanic version of those A&E horror stories
I was using a lightbulb to seal up a drive shaft and slipped…….
Cobbler
Codger bodger
- Messages
- 7,721
- Location
- Gloucestershire UK
And using it as a work light as well, dual purpose
Migmac
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 8,241
- Location
- Kintyre. Scotland
Got this soldered into place on the battery. No major issues, fits where it should. Tried it on the gun, no magic smoke released. Same while on the charger.
I fixed a none existant massive air leak on my compressed air network !
Having just fitted a pressure gauge on the branch in my foundry I had my ultrasonic leak detector out to check all the joints were sound (and yes they were ). While it was out I went over the entire system (five buildings) as a routine test and in the woodwork shop it detected a HUGE leak - squawking like a goose. Turned down it's sensitivity to try and narrow it down a bit I convinced myself that it was leaking in the middle of a pipe run - this is blue MDPE 25 mm pipe that I use - I've never had a leak in the pipe itself - but the detector was quite repeatable over a 2 foot long section.
. . . then it dawned on me - this woodwork shop still had genuine fluorescent lights - they sometimes emit ultrasonic sound ! Sure enough, turn the lights off and LEAK CURED !!!!
Having just fitted a pressure gauge on the branch in my foundry I had my ultrasonic leak detector out to check all the joints were sound (and yes they were ). While it was out I went over the entire system (five buildings) as a routine test and in the woodwork shop it detected a HUGE leak - squawking like a goose. Turned down it's sensitivity to try and narrow it down a bit I convinced myself that it was leaking in the middle of a pipe run - this is blue MDPE 25 mm pipe that I use - I've never had a leak in the pipe itself - but the detector was quite repeatable over a 2 foot long section.
. . . then it dawned on me - this woodwork shop still had genuine fluorescent lights - they sometimes emit ultrasonic sound ! Sure enough, turn the lights off and LEAK CURED !!!!
- Messages
- 22,405
- Location
- Birmingham
Bit disappointed with the quality of MK sockets, it's only lasted about 40 years had to change one in the kitchen this morning which is a bit annoying as it was due to be replaced in a couple of weeks during the kitchen refurb.
had to change one in the kitchen this morning which is a bit annoying as it was due to be replaced in a couple of weeks during the kitchen refurb.
Craig-SM
Member
- Messages
- 1,811
- Location
- Heckmondwike
Rear brakes were binding on the Shogun so gave them a clean up and lube the slider pins. Nearly 4 hours to do a 1 hour job as I couldn't find anything I needed. Spent most of my time searching and swearing until the wife came in to see what was getting me worked up. 10 mins later she'd found everything I'd been looking for 
slim_boy_fat
Member
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Awww...bless.10 mins later she'd found everything I'd been looking for
OJCar
Member
- Messages
- 1,857
- Location
- Lothian & Westmorland
Your pictures don't seem to have loaded successfully.Bought this at a motorbike jumble in Lanark a couple of weeks ago as a non runner for £20. Needed batteries and a charger, apparently, but came with a new throttle. If it wasn’t salvageable it would be hung on the wall or scavenged for components..
Ordered a pair of new batteries, and after a bit of intermittent hesitation it worked, and would trundle me along at a reasonable rate. The motor was a bit grumbly, so I assumed the bearings were on their way out.
My sisters kids wanted a shot, but the bike had other ideas. When switched it on, it would instantly supply full throttle to the motor and take off.. Glad it didn’t lock on whilst they were riding it…
We looked over the connectors, which were all good, but were unable to assess the motor controller’s PCB as that was sealed and encased.
We moved onto the motor, thinking that perhaps the ‘grumblyness’ had caused a build up of resistance in the motor, causing a surge through the PCB (pure speculation on my part, I’m not very clued up on circuits..) so as an educational exercise for them we took the motor apart.
Turns out the bearings were fine, but the field magnets had separated from the outer casing, and when spun with the rotor, was causing the noise. We were faced with the decision, buy a new motor (at which point I’d want to then paint the bike..) or try glueing the magnets back on to see if we can fix the issue. The kids opted for the latter (perhaps driven by schools now educating on sustainability?), and disappeared off home leaving me with the mess.
I ground the old glue off the casing, and bonded the magnets on with some JB Weld. The motor was reassembled, tested in isolation with a battery, and replaced in the bike.
The original motor controller was found to be inoperative, so I ordered a comparable unit from eBay and made it work, less the charger.
The bike now operates as it should, has been given a good clean and polish, and a sign of approval from the kids. Even their old mum had a shot!
Duisky
Member
- Messages
- 42
- Location
- Scotland
Having a bit of a nightmare here, posting this, apologies. Sorted now hopefully.
—
Bought this at a motorbike jumble in Lanark a couple of weeks ago as a non runner for £20. Needed batteries and a charger, apparently, but came with a new throttle. If it wasn’t salvageable it would be hung on the wall or scavenged for components..
Ordered a pair of new batteries, and after a bit of intermittent hesitation it worked, and would trundle me along at a reasonable rate. The motor was a bit grumbly, so I assumed the bearings were on their way out.
My sisters kids wanted a shot, but the bike had other ideas. When switched it on, it would instantly supply full throttle to the motor and take off.. Glad it didn’t lock on whilst they were riding it…
We looked over the connectors, which were all good, but were unable to assess the motor controller’s PCB as that was sealed and encased.
We moved onto the motor, thinking that perhaps the ‘grumblyness’ had caused a build up of resistance in the motor, causing a surge through the PCB (pure speculation on my part, I’m not very clued up on circuits..) so as an educational exercise for them we took the motor apart.
Turns out the bearings were fine, but the field magnets had separated from the outer casing, and when spun with the rotor, was causing the noise. We were faced with the decision, buy a new motor (at which point I’d want to then paint the bike..) or try glueing the magnets back on to see if we can fix the issue. The kids opted for the latter (perhaps driven by schools now educating on sustainability?), and disappeared off home leaving me with the mess.
I ground the old glue off the casing, and bonded the magnets on with some JB Weld. The motor was reassembled, tested in isolation with a battery, and replaced in the bike.
The original motor controller was found to be inoperative, so I ordered a comparable unit from eBay and made it work, less the charger.
The bike now operates as it should, has been given a good clean and polish, and a sign of approval from the kids. Even their old mum had a shot!
—
Bought this at a motorbike jumble in Lanark a couple of weeks ago as a non runner for £20. Needed batteries and a charger, apparently, but came with a new throttle. If it wasn’t salvageable it would be hung on the wall or scavenged for components..
Ordered a pair of new batteries, and after a bit of intermittent hesitation it worked, and would trundle me along at a reasonable rate. The motor was a bit grumbly, so I assumed the bearings were on their way out.
My sisters kids wanted a shot, but the bike had other ideas. When switched it on, it would instantly supply full throttle to the motor and take off.. Glad it didn’t lock on whilst they were riding it…
We looked over the connectors, which were all good, but were unable to assess the motor controller’s PCB as that was sealed and encased.
We moved onto the motor, thinking that perhaps the ‘grumblyness’ had caused a build up of resistance in the motor, causing a surge through the PCB (pure speculation on my part, I’m not very clued up on circuits..) so as an educational exercise for them we took the motor apart.
Turns out the bearings were fine, but the field magnets had separated from the outer casing, and when spun with the rotor, was causing the noise. We were faced with the decision, buy a new motor (at which point I’d want to then paint the bike..) or try glueing the magnets back on to see if we can fix the issue. The kids opted for the latter (perhaps driven by schools now educating on sustainability?), and disappeared off home leaving me with the mess.
I ground the old glue off the casing, and bonded the magnets on with some JB Weld. The motor was reassembled, tested in isolation with a battery, and replaced in the bike.
The original motor controller was found to be inoperative, so I ordered a comparable unit from eBay and made it work, less the charger.
The bike now operates as it should, has been given a good clean and polish, and a sign of approval from the kids. Even their old mum had a shot!
Duisky
Member
- Messages
- 42
- Location
- Scotland
Apologies, hopefully sorted now..
OJCar
Member
- Messages
- 1,857
- Location
- Lothian & Westmorland
Another thing you have fixed today !
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,728
- Location
- Going Away.
The other day I aquired this bundle.
The sockets, the driver bits and the easy outs in the green pouch and the rulars are used to fill other kits. The brass item is in the brass scrap pile.
The following work was done by MIS Members, I helped. Google helped as well.
Google gave us the answer to set this up, as it was reading way out. The instructions look complicated, but breaking them down to simple steps. We managed to set it up.
This Razor blade plane was complete, but the base had a set of scars on the base.
Using a glass plate, grinding paste and linseed oil we polished the sole flat and smooth.
This used a lot of time.
New blade and we have a nice tool.
The Rolls Razor was in good condition.
A good polish and a dip in medical cleaning fluid had the returned to a usable condition.
The multi tool kit was in need of attention.
We used this as a introduction to glue and leather work.
The missing part was found in the case. The case was treated to a wash and wax. The spanners are a odd size. But they do fit the fixings on the laminating press we have.
The sockets, the driver bits and the easy outs in the green pouch and the rulars are used to fill other kits. The brass item is in the brass scrap pile.
The following work was done by MIS Members, I helped. Google helped as well.
Google gave us the answer to set this up, as it was reading way out. The instructions look complicated, but breaking them down to simple steps. We managed to set it up.
This Razor blade plane was complete, but the base had a set of scars on the base.
Using a glass plate, grinding paste and linseed oil we polished the sole flat and smooth.
This used a lot of time.
New blade and we have a nice tool.
The Rolls Razor was in good condition.
A good polish and a dip in medical cleaning fluid had the returned to a usable condition.
The multi tool kit was in need of attention.
We used this as a introduction to glue and leather work.
The missing part was found in the case. The case was treated to a wash and wax. The spanners are a odd size. But they do fit the fixings on the laminating press we have.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,728
- Location
- Going Away.
Part 2.
This glazing iron was terrible. But we used it as another example of how a tool thrown away as being to bad to save can be.
It fell apart.
A good clean.
A handle from the spares box, fitted with 2 pack glue.
A Keg Tap.
In bits. There is a cork bearing in the body, but it was worn out.
Ok, The new cork is not 100%. But as a first time of trying to fix a cork bearing. it is not bad and it works.
This glazing iron was terrible. But we used it as another example of how a tool thrown away as being to bad to save can be.
It fell apart.
A good clean.
A handle from the spares box, fitted with 2 pack glue.
A Keg Tap.
In bits. There is a cork bearing in the body, but it was worn out.
Ok, The new cork is not 100%. But as a first time of trying to fix a cork bearing. it is not bad and it works.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,984
- Location
- France, Brittany.
Glazing iron, for leaded windows ?
Google:
The George Barnsley Glazing Iron is a very traditional shoemaking tool Once warmed on a tabletop burner they are used after applying wax to create a gloss on the surface of the leather, particularly soles and heels Our Glazing Irons are available in 4 styles to suit the shoemaker, these are cut down light, cut down heavy, long beak light and ...
