Stuff you have fixed today

[Pete.]

Starter for my BMW bike. This is a spare unit donated to me after it went bad and was replaced. Mine failed with a shattered magnet.

It turns out the armature has a grease flinger shield thing that had come loose, rubbed on the windings and then shorted out to the casing. You can see the wallered-out hole and the hot spots in the disc where it's been shorting



First I coated the exposed windings with winding sealer.



Then I turned a new flinger from ali bar.



Once the sealer was cured I pressed the new flinger onto the shaft stopping just short of the winding:





Put the starter back together and it's now working perfectly.

 

[dobbslc]

A week wouldn't be complete without a carb job, GSXR 750 WP this time, full carb rebuild kit/ clean and setup. Customer came back in today to thank me as he's owned it a fair while and it's never run as good which was nice!.

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Aprilia Tuono V4 valve service, front head was great, rear was completely out clearance wise, had to order the factory tooling to remove the cams.

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Honda CBR1000RA in for ABS fault. What a convoluted system the C-ABS is, 22 page manual on how to bleed it!. At least they didn't mount the front ABS pump unit 10mm behind a raging hot exhaust manifold, never seen anything as stupid.. No wonder they all go wrong.

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GSXR carbs are the worst I've ever had to work on! They don't seem to be as good as the ones on Yamaha's for some reason.

 

[cheb]

My tiny chainsaw. It stopped working on Saturday and being only a few months old I emailed the seller to ask for a replacement or a refund. They've agreed to send a replacement so I took the broken one apart out of curiosity. The negative lead had come off the motor, a dry joint by the look of it. 10 minutes later it's fixed.

 

[DennisCA]

True to the name of this forum I mig welded and seems like I wasted a lot of gas, I'm basically out now. Started from 50-ish bars to 10-20 bars left perhaps. Now to buy a Co2 bottle, I still got more yet to weld.

 

[brewdexta]

New gauges arrived for the little Junair compressor. Before

After

I can now see the gauges without specs, just.

After swapping the non-return valve, it did hold a charge longer, but not perfect. So I took the new one apart and some carp had crept in, probably when I swapped the oil and tipped the compressor. So cleaned it, that was 2 days ago, now it's only dropping one bar over 2 days which I think is OK.

 

[Barking Mat]

Stern gland, stuffing box lip seal thing on a wide beam narrow boat.

Two hours of agro, PITA, job.

Clients very happy.

 

[gav0994]

I've been slowly rebuilding the post driver I made 4 years ago and adding a few improvements. Slider for the hammer weight upgraded and strengthened today. Hammer is 400kg solid steel.

 

[Stueeee]

Just got one similar myself, really pleased with it although filthy and covered in all the usual detritus. Anyway its been cleaned and partly reassembled but I am in a slight quandary over the starter switch. It still has the original Startet switch, complete with asbestos insulation. Now would it be advisable to replace this with a modern switch, or can I use the original. It’s not going to be used in an industrial setting, nor is it likely to be left in the event of a power failure. Any help, advice or guidance gratefully accepted.

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My buffer has had an identical 'Startet' switch for the last 40 years or so of my ownership; still working perfectly. Yes, when you look inside there's loads of Asbestos in there. But you aren't going to get any contamination from daily use of the switch, and if you did need to poke about in there I'm sure that you'd take sensible PPE precautions

 

[Seadog]

Some jobs just seem to go on and on.
I attempted to use my as-yet untried tool post grinder. That ended up with a complete rebuild
Today I gave it another go, only to find that the stone arbour was bent. It had been badly repaired (no image) so I had to put it right.

Cue some lathe work and silver soldering. I tuned the threaded part off, then drilled the body ready to tap it to screw another piece in. Only to discover that that had already been done and a poor bit of silver soldering had been resulted in the thread being slightly off-centre. The shaft had then been skimmed, but was still out of true and undersize.

I just bored the end with a 1/4" slot drill, turned a stub to go in, and then silver soldered it, before turning to size and threading the end. I took the opportunity to lengthen it by a few millimetres as well. The main spindle is either 1/4" x 32 ME or 1/4" x 32 UNEF. I thought it prudent to have a tap just in case the silver solder went where it shouldn't have done. It didn't, but I've still got a taper and plug, plus a die coming from Tracey Tools. Only £12 all-in.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get on with grinding the ends of the ball screws to diameter

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

On a site that does specific welding. With a fire alarm that was randomly going into fire..

First it was suspected that the new radio link detectors were being affected by the new welding machines.
So they have been changed to wired units.

The log was checked and it was not being sent into fire by a input. But by the main processor PCB.
This was changed.

The manufacturer suggested it was earth connection related.
So a dedicated earth was set up. All devices connected to this earth. Back Box, conduit, fire panel case and the mains.

I was on site, just to see what was going on.

I went back to basics.
Checked all connections in each device.
Checked the volts and amps.
Checked the earth leakage.
Checked the resistance of everything.

Then I found one thing wrong
The ferrite core on the mains in was cracked.
Replaced it when panel was in fire, the panel reset.
Fitted it back in again. Then the new welding machines started. Into fire.

Fitted a new core. It seam to be working now.
I ran away.

 

[Seadog]

Some jobs just seem to go on and on.
I attempted to use my as-yet untried tool post grinder. That ended up with a complete rebuild
Today I gave it another go, only to find that the stone arbour was bent. It had been badly repaired (no image) so I had to put it right.

Cue some lathe work and silver soldering. I tuned the threaded part off, then drilled the body ready to tap it to screw another piece in. Only to discover that that had already been done and a poor bit of silver soldering had been resulted in the thread being slightly off-centre. The shaft had then been skimmed, but was still out of true and undersize.

I just bored the end with a 1/4" slot drill, turned a stub to go in, and then silver soldered it, before turning to size and threading the end. I took the opportunity to lengthen it by a few millimetres as well. The main spindle is either 1/4" x 32 ME or 1/4" x 32 UNEF. I thought it prudent to have a tap just in case the silver solder went where it shouldn't have done. It didn't, but I've still got a taper and plug, plus a die coming from Tracey Tools. Only £12 all-in.

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Hopefully tomorrow I can get on with grinding the ends of the ball screws to diameter

Well the taps and die turned up from Tracy in the post this morning. Just as well since there is about 6 thou runout on the adaptor. I expected that the OD and bore would be concentric, not unreasonably, I think, but clearly they're not.

Plan B - make a new adaptor. But first make a mandrel so that I don't have to dismantle the grinder to use the spindle.

All good, except for the thread tightening near to the fully home position. No problem, I have taps for just this sort of occasion.

Has anyone come across a standard tap that has a major ID that is larger than the nominal size? I haven't, but its a real pain in the **** since I'm tapping into a reamed, blind hole.

Tracy think that it's the norm for carbon steel taps. I don't. Anyway, carbon steel taps on their way back for a refund, and hopefully some HSS taps will arrive tomorrow morning and I can get on with this bloody job That is assuming, of course, that they're fit for purpose.

 

[RaceDiagnostics]

Leg broke off of my fire pit/chimnea. Luckily a couple of M8 bolts were still held captive and a blob of weld holds then in there tight.

Job done. Cigar anyone.

 

[Barking Mat]

More boatiness.

This boat felt like sinking this morning, we talked it out of it.

See that rigid pipe top LHS in the hole, that's a gas pipe, glad I didn't angle grind through that.

So that's armoured body filler, over a bit of lino I wedged in the hole so I have something to fiberglass over tomorrow.

 

[dobbslc]

Was that crash damage?

 

[Barking Mat]

Was that crash damage?

Oh yeah, they obviously hit something hard, underwater, and punctured the hull.

Takes some doing.

 

[OJCar]

The hedgehogs have developed torpedoes in their fight back against the nail varnish ...



(apologies to those that are unaware of Barking Mat's activities graffitiing hedgehogs as it will make even less sense than usual )

 

[Seadog]

There are a few bits of greenery in the garden that I don't want. Clumps of grass, in fact.
Out with my trusty sprayer

Except, it wasn't trusty. OK, it's been standing outside for maybe 18 months, but it should still work...

I spent a few entertaining hours a five years ago resurrecting from its previous neglect: new stainless pump rod made and fitted: the leaky pressure release valve sorted. (That was fun. Unless you have the hands and arms of a two years old you can't get in to remove, or tighten, the backing nut. But I sorted it).

The problem this time was a leak from several splits in the handle.

I've some Delrin, I could have made a new one.
I've solvent glue (probably the easiest solution ).
Or, put a liner in.

Enter some old 8mm copper pipe. A piece was cut over length, annealed, and then swaged at one end using the collet chuck to hold it. I achieved a very nice flare that the O-ring can seal against. At the other end I discovered a use for my LIDL flaring tool that I bought a couple of years ago. See, I knew that it would come in useful...

Reassembled and, it didn't work.

Problem, gunge and muck in the valve and nozzle.

Got that sorted and lo, it now works again

Until the next time

 

[mechman]

More boatiness.

This boat felt like sinking this morning, we talked it out of it.

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See that rigid pipe top LHS in the hole, that's a gas pipe, glad I didn't angle grind through that.

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So that's armoured body filler, over a bit of lino I wedged in the hole so I have something to fiberglass over tomorrow.

How old would that hull be? certainly looks bit Billy Cotton. Just read on and its suspect collision damage.

 

[500e]

Rebuild ram on Geks

 

[Barking Mat]

How old would that hull be? certainly looks bit Billy Cotton. Just read on and its suspect collision damage.

Well it's probably twenty years old, and only the fish see it, but all our hulls are pretty damn solid, they all get pulled out every winter and inspected, and spend four months outside the workshop.

Finished off repairs today.

Bisch, Bosch, Bang.