- Thread starter qwakers
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Arc Tourist
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I have the same type of tommy bar handle on my old Rockwell press. Adding a golf ball to it and the chuck key handle makes it more user friendly.
I bought a job lot of binos on ebay a while ago for £18 if I recall, amongst them a good pair of Bausch &Lomb. They were all good, gave one each to the grandkids, one in the motorhome etc.The patient survived. Much cleaner optics
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Blobber
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Was there not room to bring the cables out the back of the box?
It’s a go-no go type portable appliance test kit.
The threads on the cable glands are very short. I drilled a hole in the back of the mounting plate and box to do this but the plate is four or five mm and there was no thread poking through the box to secure with the nut.
I'm not a fan of the loop sticking out of the side but it is high up and well to the rear of everything.
Edit.
I could have made a large clearance hole in the back so the 5mm plate wouldn't be an issue. I do get terrible tunnel vision when I'm working.
I will look through my boxes of electrical treasures for some thinner, more compliant cable that I can route better.
I'm not a fan of the loop sticking out of the side but it is high up and well to the rear of everything.
Edit.
I could have made a large clearance hole in the back so the 5mm plate wouldn't be an issue. I do get terrible tunnel vision when I'm working.
I will look through my boxes of electrical treasures for some thinner, more compliant cable that I can route better.
Last edited:
Blobber
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Next time you could use 20mm conduit couplers with 20mm bushes, you can get long pattern bushes if youre going through thick stuff, the glands would just screw into the couplers
slim_boy_fat
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I finally got round to making half of a clip on my illuminated mag glass, after the original bit decided to identify as a 'pingfeckit' and disappeared in the cave never to be seen again.
Milled a replacement [circled in the pic] and it works a treat again - well....for the moment at least.
Milled a replacement [circled in the pic] and it works a treat again - well....for the moment at least.
Arc Tourist
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Nice light setup John. 
You just reminded me that I have one of those lighted magnifier's in storage; somewhere ?
You just reminded me that I have one of those lighted magnifier's in storage; somewhere ?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
Bit of fun, yesterday, in-between fighting rust.
More of experiment on the first tool. Trying a new resin repair kit.
Odd hammer, clearly hand made, made be a school project.
Head fitted, but the shaft is 3 mm below the head.
To allow the resin kit to flood.
First try, red colouring added.
Did it work?
No.
So we removed it and fitted the head in a more traditional way.
More of experiment on the first tool. Trying a new resin repair kit.
Odd hammer, clearly hand made, made be a school project.
Head fitted, but the shaft is 3 mm below the head.
To allow the resin kit to flood.
First try, red colouring added.
Did it work?
No.
So we removed it and fitted the head in a more traditional way.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,605
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- Going Away.
Ok, we have more resin and one more hammer.
As I got it.
Original rivets, one of the was broken and could not be saved. The metal bands were also missing.
Soft steel was fitted and we are pouring the resin.
It will find any weakness and will leak.
Slightly over filled, it will go down as it works it way down.
Dressed back.
This makes the caulking hammer a great tool for use on wooden handled pin punches.
I have a set of them. with brass punches. A metal hammer does them no good.
Spot the new rivet.
Finished.
One end is red, a harder resin, the other is clear.
I have tried it out and it seams to be good.
As I got it.
Original rivets, one of the was broken and could not be saved. The metal bands were also missing.
Soft steel was fitted and we are pouring the resin.
It will find any weakness and will leak.
Slightly over filled, it will go down as it works it way down.
Dressed back.
This makes the caulking hammer a great tool for use on wooden handled pin punches.
I have a set of them. with brass punches. A metal hammer does them no good.
Spot the new rivet.
Finished.
One end is red, a harder resin, the other is clear.
I have tried it out and it seams to be good.
- Messages
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- Birmingham
Mrs Robo's horse has a habit of rubbing against the feedbucket frame in the stable and broke the fixings so I decided to make it a bit more robust.
A couple of 3mm plates with lots of holes drilled in.
Plates welded on thanks to @Cato followed by some steel wheel silver to stop it rusting.
Lets see how long it lasts now...
A couple of 3mm plates with lots of holes drilled in.
Plates welded on thanks to @Cato followed by some steel wheel silver to stop it rusting.
Lets see how long it lasts now...
Had a warranty job this morning.
My lad's MT-5 had some play in LHS Main bearing for some odd reason (only rebuilt this engine 1000 miles ago!).
Horrid weather so Gazebo came out!.
Engine out, stripped, rebuilt and back in in 4hrs with some extra hands helping.
I thought it was because I hadn't used C3 bearings last time (couldn't remember) but that's what's come out so a bit odd really.
Anyway can't grumble at £30 in bits and a mornings work to get him back on the road.
My lad's MT-5 had some play in LHS Main bearing for some odd reason (only rebuilt this engine 1000 miles ago!).
Horrid weather so Gazebo came out!.
Engine out, stripped, rebuilt and back in in 4hrs with some extra hands helping.
I thought it was because I hadn't used C3 bearings last time (couldn't remember) but that's what's come out so a bit odd really.
Anyway can't grumble at £30 in bits and a mornings work to get him back on the road.
Normally the quickest way to run out a main - is to run out of 2T oil in the oil tank.
Moped engine...makes sense now.
I used to.love working on my Maico engine. So glad I could not afford to race cars...lol
Oil tank is always full and we run an extra 1% in the petrol to be safe.
There was plenty of oil around the bearing, didn't feel or sound rough at all so a bit strange.
He's got an ear if anything doesn't sound right so hopefully nipped it in the bud.
Piston looked great, nice colour on plug.
Prajna
Fixing things for the love of it
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A friend posted a vid of me welding on faceberg and, being faceberg, there were immediately a bunch of comments saying, "you shouldn't be welding outside in this weather! You're not even allowed to use agricultural equipment this time of year! You're going to set the county on fire! We'll report you to the police!" etc. But there were also a few job offers before she deleted the post. This was today's job: a balcony railing that had bars that needed straightening and one that needed welding back on. They were very generous and we made some new friends (wives chatted while I worked). It was also a delight to be welding with mains power rather than an under-powered genny too. Another quite different job tomorrow welding some box section braces into a barn frame. A chance to use my diddle flux core welder.
Might be worth checking the output of the 2t pump then maybe?
It's a very long time ago for me, & the only one I fettled was on a DT175.... but I recall that one you had to set the stroke, & it had to deliver a certain amount after x number of strokes of something similar according to the Haynes I had.
It's not unknown for one to pack up.
blackolive (Ste)
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- Chorley
I could get addicted to buying old good quality binos and restoring them whilst drinking
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Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
C3 is increased clearances for an application where the bearing may heat too quickly before the shaft/housing can equalise, resulting in a race too tight & subsequent damage.
Are you sure it's c3 from factory?
If so, then i'd suspect either crank is bent or something is out of whack, balance or housing alignment.
