Stuff you have fixed today

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

A nice pair of Bialaddin Pressure lamps was acquired by me.

Both needed some attention.

The test light showed a few issues.
Leaks from the seals and a pump not working.

Spares ordered.

Oh that is why the pump does not work.

That is because it is a lump of butchered rubber.

On the cotton bud you can see the dirt and metal that was common to both lamps.

This is not meant to happen.

It was stripped down again, rebuilt and tested.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

The plan for theses two T15 heaters was to fix one by using parts from the other one.

But the best laid plans of mice, men and TYA..................


The biggest fear was, as both wicks are seized that the adjuster had been forced and broken.

Both wicks were rotten and seized.
You tear the wick down to the tails.
Then gently pull it apart.

The wick support was in need of a good clean.

There is no tool or easy way the do this.

So I made one.

New wick fitted in to one.

This is the other heater, again a seized wick.
You can see the arms that raise and lower the wick.
Yes they are that slim and weak.
But they work very well through.

Hot plate removed.

Both are burning away very nicely.

 

[octo0072000]

looks like a trouser trimming session is in order

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

looks like a trouser trimming session is in order

No, a new belt.

 

[bricol]

looks like a trouser trimming session is in order

Dunno, but I've never seen steelies that worn . . .

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Dunno, but I've never seen steelies that worn . . .

Air con.

 

[DAPPH]

looks like a trouser trimming session is in order

Or grow longer legs and stop arsing about

 

[DennisCA]

Doing a job for a friend, this wasn't a big job, I took a few tenths of a millimeter of the center bore that had galling damage. The biggest part of this job was getting it chucked up properly in the lathe. Because of the geometry I guess, everytime I adjusted something, something else got out of whack. I spent hours adjusting in the runout and chasing my own tail.

First I got regular run out dialed in, but then I had axial runout instead, I fixed that and I had the previous runout back and around like that I went. Tried chucking up differently several times too. Tapping the thing with a soft mallet seemed to move it in ways I did not want it to. So eventually I threw together these improvised pushers from some nuts and bolts and I adjusted the run out very carefully using those on the low side, and yay! I got within 1-3 hundreths of a mm in both directions before I called it good enough and bored it up.

Yes this would have been a better job for the mill and a boring head. Only thing is. I don't have a working boring head... With a boring head I would probably have bored both holes and skim cut the face to put everything in alignment.

 

[qwakers]

today i replaced the (structural) rotten ply wood with a steel frame and plastic sheet for the rear tailgate, and replaced the rotten front panel whilst i was at it too.

much better'er.

and yes i know the door isnt square. dont care its only about 3mm out anyway...

 

[JOEPRO]

today i replaced the (structural) rotten ply wood with a steel frame and plastic sheet for the rear tailgate, and replaced the rotten front panel whilst i was at it too.

much better'er.

and yes i know the door isnt square. dont care its only about 3mm out anyway...

Is it not a case that you made the door perfectly square and the trailer is off the square?

 

[qwakers]

bit of both tbf.

 

[prepman]

Having fumed at the rip off (£40) price of a replacement bulb for the Kuga rear indicator I decided to modify the holder to an LED.
Hacked the old bulb from the base and soldered the LED bulb and expoxied it together. It requires a 6Ω ballast resistor to load flasher unit up.
Unfortunately this basically removes the lamp failure warning (rapid flash). So I went and thunk for a bit......hurt like hell.
Then I realised a simple 1 transistor current amplifier would fix that issue and it does. So if the small (~200mA) current fails through the LED it switches off the transistor and ballast load (2A) off.
Proper 50W resistors on order (2 x 2W X 10Ω in parrallel temp)
Old BD433 NPN in use.
Rough (dog) ....ready for tidy up and insulation. This is not about saving money....don't like being ripped off.

 

[My Old Landy]

Having fumed at the rip off (£40) price of a replacement bulb for the Kuga rear indicator I decided to modify the holder to an LED.
Hacked the old bulb from the base and soldered the LED bulb and expoxied it together. It requires a 6Ω ballast resistor to load flasher unit up.
Unfortunately this basically removes the lamp failure warning (rapid flash). So I went and thunk for a bit......hurt like hell.
Then I realised a simple 1 transistor current amplifier would fix that issue and it does. So if the small (~200mA) current fails through the LED it switches off the transistor and ballast load (2A) off.
Proper 50W resistors on order (2 x 2W X 10Ω in parrallel temp)
Old BD433 NPN in use.
Rough (dog) ....ready for tidy up and insulation.View attachment 410605

My Mrs has a Kuga, I didn't realise they were so expensive to replace a bulb on!

 

[prepman]

My Mrs has a Kuga, I didn't realise they were so expensive to replace a bulb on!

All one piece. Can't be separated.



They've done done a real ****ty on the MK1(IMHO). The fitting aperture is small diameter and the bulb is part of the docking piece, Ford proprietry?
Standard diameter dirt cheap amber bulb will not fit (found the hard way)

 

[Blobber]

Having fumed at the rip off (£40) price of a replacement bulb for the Kuga rear indicator I decided to modify the holder to an LED.
Hacked the old bulb from the base and soldered the LED bulb and expoxied it together. It requires a 6Ω ballast resistor to load flasher unit up.
Unfortunately this basically removes the lamp failure warning (rapid flash). So I went and thunk for a bit......hurt like hell.
Then I realised a simple 1 transistor current amplifier would fix that issue and it does. So if the small (~200mA) current fails through the LED it switches off the transistor and ballast load (2A) off.
Proper 50W resistors on order (2 x 2W X 10Ω in parrallel temp)
Old BD433 NPN in use.
Rough (dog) ....ready for tidy up and insulation. This is not about saving money....don't like being ripped off.

View attachment 410605

Your going to be sitting in a layby on fire with that lot!
At least you will have all the EVs to keep you company

 

[prepman]

Your going to be sitting in a layby on fire with that lot!
At least you will have all the EVs to keep you company

Based on what? You do realise that is a lash up just to prove functionality?

 

[Blobber]

Based on what? You do realise that is a lash up just to prove functionality?

A little bit of humour

 

[My Old Landy]

All one piece. Can't be separated.

View attachment 410607

They've done done a real ****ty on the MK1(IMHO). The fitting aperture is small diameter and the bulb is part of the docking piece, Ford proprietry?
Standard diameter dirt cheap amber bulb will not fit (found the hard way)

Cheers for the heads up

 

[Ross365]

Got the timer/programmer working again on my 38-year old Hotpoint washing machine. Decided it would be to hard to dismantle, so played it safe with some contact cleaner and some lube (in very limited quantities and places and it's working again. Roll on the big 40

 

[prepman]

A little bit of humour

I'm not without humour. but I posted to make a point about losing fault indication. I think many people have probably fitted these led without considering this issue. There is a legal (MOT) potential backlash s well.
But I do see that the rat's nest I posted would possibly create a potential for fire
I spent a few day's trying to fathom this out....I now have 3 options use the new 6 ohm 50w resistors and finish it off.
Use the new small diameter 21w filament lamps on order or bite the bullet and pay the £40 for Ford one.
I spent in excess of that with parts.......again it isn't about cost.....Not paying a Ford stealership a ransom.