A magnet type filter is a worthwhile investment, makes this kind of thing a bit easier too.Now winters coming I though I best give the heating the once over, the underfloor heating pump is always temperamental and sticks when not used so Im assuming the water additive is not doing its stuff, being a sealed system and im a cheap skate I just got a ltr bottle, the tubes/bottles with the vent adaptors are 2/3 times the price for less splosh
View attachment 421198
I thought I had a radiator around with the large style vent plug so I could use a funnel and a bit of pipe but it appears not
View attachment 421199
Oh well Ill knock the top of the system, take a lock-shield off and wack it straight down a pipe, sorted
View attachment 421200
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 11,618
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Unless the bloody EXPENSIVE Pegler valves either side decide to let by!
Tbf, the old single pipe system hadn't been flushed in 50 years! I might have been better with the flush rig type with a big magnet in. I added 2 lots of cleaner a couple of weeks prior. Then a kilo of citric acid to the rig reservoir and flushed for 24 hours, alternating direction. The crud that came out was incredible.
Just had to 'fix' the diesel heater for the workshop.
Having the luxury of fitting an Afterburner to it, I can turn it on while still sat the computer, so thought I'd turn it on as I needed to go do some wiring.
Happened to check the web interface after a while, and it was showing Failed to ignite. Reset it, tried again, and could see the glow plug and fuel pump were doing their jobs, but chamber temp wasn't rising, so had to go out and actually look at it.
It was making a gurgling sound. The exhaust had been pointing where it shouldn't, so was full of water. Quick manoeuvre to drain most of the water out, and it fired up as normal, albeit with a bit steam and some blue smoke from unburnt fuel, but it cleared in a couple minutes.
Having the luxury of fitting an Afterburner to it, I can turn it on while still sat the computer, so thought I'd turn it on as I needed to go do some wiring.
Happened to check the web interface after a while, and it was showing Failed to ignite. Reset it, tried again, and could see the glow plug and fuel pump were doing their jobs, but chamber temp wasn't rising, so had to go out and actually look at it.
It was making a gurgling sound. The exhaust had been pointing where it shouldn't, so was full of water. Quick manoeuvre to drain most of the water out, and it fired up as normal, albeit with a bit steam and some blue smoke from unburnt fuel, but it cleared in a couple minutes.
DickyDoDah
Member
- Messages
- 235
- Location
- Witshire, UK
I managed to pick up a car for free, yes FREE from Freecycle a couple of weeks ago as it had a dodgy clutch and they had been quoted almost the value of the car to fix it. Don't get excited it's only a Mk1 Vauxhall Agila but it runs.
Easy fix I thought as they said they couldn't get it into gear at times. Five minutes adjusting the cable and all seemed well
Strangely after 20ish miles it was back to being hard/impossible to put in gear. Very odd I thought but decided to buy a clutch kit, OMG what a palaver! took me about 3 days of searching to get the right one and at a reasonable price.
Well today I finally got the gearbox out, not that it was difficult I just couldn't be arsed to spend much time on it. Now I know why it was a bit problematic in the gear changes
No chance of removing the shaft as it had been welded after inserting into the bushes. They didn't even weld all the way around and worse still the bit the left was the weakest point. Only two options, fix it or scrap it. A fix would mean another gearbox so that went out the window and scrapping it would be a pain as it was in bits. I decided to actually... and I apologise for saying this on a welding forum.... weld it
200amps and 1mm wire in my MIG and not a bad result 
It's going back in the car tomorrow and I reckon it will outlast the rest of the car. The one downside is that the clutchplate was not really worn so I could have gotten away with just a new thrust bearing but it was only £40 more for the whole kit.
Easy fix I thought as they said they couldn't get it into gear at times. Five minutes adjusting the cable and all seemed well
Strangely after 20ish miles it was back to being hard/impossible to put in gear. Very odd I thought but decided to buy a clutch kit, OMG what a palaver! took me about 3 days of searching to get the right one and at a reasonable price.Well today I finally got the gearbox out, not that it was difficult I just couldn't be arsed to spend much time on it. Now I know why it was a bit problematic in the gear changes
No chance of removing the shaft as it had been welded after inserting into the bushes. They didn't even weld all the way around and worse still the bit the left was the weakest point. Only two options, fix it or scrap it. A fix would mean another gearbox so that went out the window and scrapping it would be a pain as it was in bits. I decided to actually... and I apologise for saying this on a welding forum.... weld it
200amps and 1mm wire in my MIG and not a bad result It's going back in the car tomorrow and I reckon it will outlast the rest of the car. The one downside is that the clutchplate was not really worn so I could have gotten away with just a new thrust bearing but it was only £40 more for the whole kit.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,735
- Location
- Teesside, England
Not today but Monday and not exactly fixed, but... had a breakdown callout from a customer 180 miles away. Radiation warning light not working.
Drove down, was told they'd tried a new LED cluster to no avail. So I swapped the cluster from one lamp unit to another and it worked, which meant there was no supply geting to the lamp unit.
Now, a requirement of the Ionising Radiation Regs is that no x-rays may be generated if all lamps arent lit, hence they couldn't do any work, so the system was doing what it should. But how do you know if the monitoring circuit for the lamps is working? In this case we fit a pushbutton so that when you put the system into Test mode, you can manually switch all the lamps on or off to check if the monitoring drops the interlocks out.
Someone had left the button in the OFF position...
That'll be £1000 please.
Drove down, was told they'd tried a new LED cluster to no avail. So I swapped the cluster from one lamp unit to another and it worked, which meant there was no supply geting to the lamp unit.
Now, a requirement of the Ionising Radiation Regs is that no x-rays may be generated if all lamps arent lit, hence they couldn't do any work, so the system was doing what it should. But how do you know if the monitoring circuit for the lamps is working? In this case we fit a pushbutton so that when you put the system into Test mode, you can manually switch all the lamps on or off to check if the monitoring drops the interlocks out.
Someone had left the button in the OFF position...
That'll be £1000 please.
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
Not today but Monday and not exactly fixed, but... had a breakdown callout from a customer 180 miles away. Radiation warning light not working.
Drove down, was told they'd tried a new LED cluster to no avail. So I swapped the cluster from one lamp unit to another and it worked, which meant there was no supply geting to the lamp unit.
Now, a requirement of the Ionising Radiation Regs is that no x-rays may be generated if all lamps arent lit, hence they couldn't do any work, so the system was doing what it should. But how do you know if the monitoring circuit for the lamps is working? In this case we fit a pushbutton so that when you put the system into Test mode, you can manually switch all the lamps on or off to check if the monitoring drops the interlocks out.
Someone had left the button in the OFF position...
That'll be £1000 please.
We had a new machine at Rover that had a 2 metre long control panel covered in various coloured lamps to show the status of the machine, the publicity dept, wanted a photo will all the lamps on so if you looked carefully at the photo you can just see the tip of a finger at the bottom left of the panel holding the lamp test button down
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,735
- Location
- Teesside, England
We had a new machine at Rover that had a 2 metre long control panel covered in various coloured lamps to show the status of the machine, the publicity dept, wanted a photo will all the lamps on so if you looked carefully at the photo you can just see the tip of a finger at the bottom left of the panel holding the lamp test button down
nowadays you'd Photoshop the hand out. Actually, thinking about it I have written user manuals that had step-by-step instructions with pictures, and I copied and pasted lit lamps over unlit ones to make the representations look right.I always wanted to build a panel like the cockpit of that spaceship in Hitch-hiker's Guide... it had black bulbs with black lenses that lit up black on a black background.
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
I always wanted to build a panel like the cockpit of that spaceship in Hitch-hiker's Guide... it had black bulbs with black lenses that lit up black on a black background.
Or a legend that said "please do not press this button again"
sardine
Member
- Messages
- 3,660
- Location
- Buckinghamshire
Replaced the copper in this 1 inch hammer, I blasted some copper pipe with the oxygen propane cutting torch in a peice of steel tube as a crucible but I couldn't get it really liquid, it was full of voids and so I tried some borax flux on it and it brazed itself to the mould which I had to grind off, i got something useable but If anyone knows a better way of quick and easy way of casting copper inserts I would like to know.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,608
- Location
- Going Away.
I last did cooper in a crucible lined with fire clay.
Placed it in a Hard wood charcoal fire and blew air into the fire.
Got it runny hot and added borax flux.
Then pre heated the molds and poured in one smooth motion.
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,381
- Location
- Kent, UK
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,735
- Location
- Teesside, England
You should have said, I was in Wiltshire on Tuesday/ Weds AM, I could have popped round to... offer advice
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,608
- Location
- Going Away.
This charming Tilley Table lamp came my way this week.
I knew it needed some TLC, but I decided to take a punt on this.
I knew it needed glass, seals, mantles and may be a vaporizer.
Parts ordered and arrived.
New glass was fitted, check that the 3 springs and screws are present. If not they will be costly to replace.
New mantle, cheap ones are not worth the money. They will either not fit, burn wrong or just fall apart.
The cup washer had to be teased out.
I had to remove the pump and body. The NRV needed some attention. In a good seal kit you will get the washers and seals you need.
The seals will harden with age and use. It is not worth leaving them in place.
When you have rebuilt the lamp, fill the tank 3/4 full with good fuel.
Lamp oil.
Or Good paraffin.
Operate the pump for 30 times, crack the control valve. You should see a clean narrow straight jet from the top of the vaporizer.
If not, a new one is needed.
If the fuel jet is not straight it can be dismantled and cleaned.
Soak the pre-heater in clean Meths and light. As the meths burns operate the pump 50 times. Don't be to quick to open the valve.
Or you will get this, or worse.
The first burn showed I had issues.
A yelllow burn and no heat, means the pressure is not maintained. So I had to strip it down and pound out the NRV was not working 100%
The second burn.
A good clean white flame, gentle hissing and a lot of heat.
I knew it needed some TLC, but I decided to take a punt on this.
I knew it needed glass, seals, mantles and may be a vaporizer.
Parts ordered and arrived.
New glass was fitted, check that the 3 springs and screws are present. If not they will be costly to replace.
New mantle, cheap ones are not worth the money. They will either not fit, burn wrong or just fall apart.
The cup washer had to be teased out.
I had to remove the pump and body. The NRV needed some attention. In a good seal kit you will get the washers and seals you need.
The seals will harden with age and use. It is not worth leaving them in place.
When you have rebuilt the lamp, fill the tank 3/4 full with good fuel.
Lamp oil.
Or Good paraffin.
Operate the pump for 30 times, crack the control valve. You should see a clean narrow straight jet from the top of the vaporizer.
If not, a new one is needed.
If the fuel jet is not straight it can be dismantled and cleaned.
Soak the pre-heater in clean Meths and light. As the meths burns operate the pump 50 times. Don't be to quick to open the valve.
Or you will get this, or worse.
The first burn showed I had issues.
A yelllow burn and no heat, means the pressure is not maintained. So I had to strip it down and pound out the NRV was not working 100%
The second burn.
A good clean white flame, gentle hissing and a lot of heat.
After recently extolling the virtues of Henry hoovers, guess what happens..the smoke...
Think the brushes and commutator on the old motor are okish, bearing issue me thinks, morbid curiosity, may strip it..
Emailed Numatic Monday, other than "received your email" - stiff ignoring....
Anyway £30 Amazon heart transplant later, all good.
Think the brushes and commutator on the old motor are okish, bearing issue me thinks, morbid curiosity, may strip it..
Emailed Numatic Monday, other than "received your email" - stiff ignoring....
Anyway £30 Amazon heart transplant later, all good.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
I think that makes you a Henry doctor.After recently extolling the virtues of Henry hoovers, guess what happens..the smoke...
Think the brushes and commutator on the old motor are okish, bearing issue me thinks, morbid curiosity, may strip it..
Emailed Numatic Monday, other than "received your email" - stiff ignoring....
Anyway £30 Amazon heart transplant later, all good.
View attachment 422057
