Hot pressing?
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
If I remember correctly (?), it was an engine driven deck washdown pump, of which I have zero experience, we have a bloke who washes our boats, he's great.
magnet
Member
- Messages
- 1,354
Got this pretty sorry mini Sheffield sheath knife from a junk shop. It was all loose a r someone had had a go peening the end of the tang.took it apart straightened it welded an m4 screw io the end of the tang. Made a threaded brass bead reassembled and cleaned it up
Just needs a sheath now.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
I thought the first photo was half a banana.
magnet
Member
- Messages
- 1,354
Aye my photography leaves a bit to be desired
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
- Messages
- 10,487
- Location
- Don't ask questions
And the rest! That's a pretty deep part, it would need progressive stamping so you're essentially buying several tools in one. You've got to pay someone to develop it, manufacture the tool, probably manufacture a second one when the first version cuts undersize, and finally pay someone to press them out (A day to set it up on the press + 2 minutes to make 100 parts). I think you'd be doing well if you got the tool made under £10k.
100 is an awkward quantity to make. Less than 10 it might be viable to turn them from solid (Or cored bar), or fabricate them. 1000+ it starts to become worth getting a stamping tool made.
I'd consider approaching the supplier of the drive shafts and seeing if they can sell you just that bit.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,338
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
A tool that simple isn't going to be more than a £1000 - he wants to make 100, not a thousand parts. Now if you said it needed to make 100 parts a year for the next 10 years you might look into commerically made dies of fancy tool steel and grinding it to dimension. A bog standard tool steel with a turned finish then polished will work.
At the end of the day that part can be pressed out in a workshop hydraulic press, its basically tin and probably of no great tolerance either given that it looks to be a shield for an axle.
Personally I'd heat the blank with a rose bud, plenty of this on the die & tool https://www.anvilfire.com/prod-docs/Forge-Ease-3512-info.pdf
Would have to be hydraulic press with a fast action, to limit the amount of heat lost to the tool/die.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,338
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
I can probably get you a quote from the firm that presses slightly smaller parts for the exhaust company I do work for. They buy in quantity of 100 / 250 so possibly could bundle the order together.
Send me some better photos along with exact dimensions, along with the tolerances required. I can then produce a drawing to send on.
Send me some better photos along with exact dimensions, along with the tolerances required. I can then produce a drawing to send on.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,576
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
Fitted a new clutch master to a friend's Corsa.
Job took about 1 hour. I spent about 5 hours driving, between going to get the car and dropping it back.
The things we do for friends..
Job took about 1 hour. I spent about 5 hours driving, between going to get the car and dropping it back.
The things we do for friends..
- Messages
- 22,235
- Location
- Birmingham
PM sent.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
I'll get back to you tomorrow.
Bit of a success tonight. Thought it was time I tackled my power scraper which has been in bits for over a year!
Thanks to @Pete. for making me a nylon (or delrin?) gear, which is slightly narrower than the original, but once pressed onto the stub shaft meshed fine with the motor shaft.
Further Investigations into why the scraper was overheating and slowing revealed a buggahd rear bearing. So, in the interests of getting it back together quickly I investigated any other grubby failed grinders. The Bosch one I've had for years fell into the right category, so I decided to strip it. I put it down, fetched some tools and stripped it. But I couldn't see anything wrong with it? Then it dawned on me - I'd put the Bosch down and picked up a Draper!!!
So a hasty rebuild and test followed. Then I stripped the right grinder, found a duff rear bearing on that one as well. This time I had a spare, so one replaced bearing later, job done. Tonight I'll measure up the duff bearing pictured and order a couple, fingers crossed the power scraper will be back in business soon.
Arc Tourist
Member
- Messages
- 4,885
- Location
- Wales
The other day I acquired a pair of wide stainless steel foot pegs to replace the skinny aluminium ones on my Honda nc750x . Both replacements needed some machining, but the price was right at less than £15.oo delivered for the pair. The pad teeth were uneven, so I levelled them and had to do some milling to make the attachment points fit the existing mounts, and also at the proper angle. I'm happy with the results, and these feel substantially better under foot than the factory pegs.
Last edited:
dobbslc
Member
- Messages
- 11,966
- Location
- Hertfordshire UK
The bottom bush on my Surf's rear shock was bulging out and got an advisory on the last MOT.
I got a set of spares from Roughtrax and fitted them on Sunday.
15 minutes and job done!
Took me longer to jack it up and fit the axle stands when I could have just rolled under it
I got a set of spares from Roughtrax and fitted them on Sunday.
15 minutes and job done!
Took me longer to jack it up and fit the axle stands when I could have just rolled under it
Arc Tourist
Member
- Messages
- 4,885
- Location
- Wales
Was going to strim the weeds in the back yard today, so got my fuel bottle back from my neighbour who I lent it to awhile back. It was returned grungy and the cap had major cracks.
So, a quick flush out with a degreaser, cleaned the cap with some acetone, and attempted the super glue method as a fix. It worked out ok.
So, a quick flush out with a degreaser, cleaned the cap with some acetone, and attempted the super glue method as a fix. It worked out ok.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,576
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
Put a new clutch in the Sprinter yesterday.
Had an odd issue with the clutch getting heavy when not used, like in one gear on the motorway for a long time.
Aside from being annoying i didn't want it putting extra strain on the hydraulics and causing the slave cylinder to fail.
Such an easy vehicle to work on.
Had an odd issue with the clutch getting heavy when not used, like in one gear on the motorway for a long time.
Aside from being annoying i didn't want it putting extra strain on the hydraulics and causing the slave cylinder to fail.
Such an easy vehicle to work on.
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
The joys of rear wheel drive.
Moose McAlpine
Member
- Messages
- 1,576
- Location
- Norf Lund'n
Oh yes, and the LWBs have an extra propshaft section, a small one that unbolts easily, making them even easier than the MWBs.
So little needs to be removed to get the gearbox out, and it's all done from the back.
Ive recently got a little steam engine that I'm refurbishing. It works fine, but the crankshaft runs though the firebox and the holes for it aren't in alignment. After 60 years running its not a big problem, but it annoys me.
so I though I'd weld the hole up so I can redrill it later
the casing is only 0.5mm thick, so I clamped it to some 1/4" thick copper and fired up the mig welder as I'd been doing some welding on my car earlier.
and after bit of cleaning up its good to go, and still flat.
so I though I'd weld the hole up so I can redrill it later
the casing is only 0.5mm thick, so I clamped it to some 1/4" thick copper and fired up the mig welder as I'd been doing some welding on my car earlier.
and after bit of cleaning up its good to go, and still flat.
