Stuff you have fixed today

[Sergei Slovenija]

Finish

5 days of fitting, trimming, tacking parts together, at height and at joints. Tedious plumbing work, removal of powder paint from joints, incl. paint got inside the flanges. Welding took one day and a little today on the sight glass, the cherry on the cake. I welded the outside of a flange with a wall thickness of 1.5 mm and a base with a wall thickness of 4 mm. Then I welded the step from the inside and smoothed it out on a pulse of 30 hertz and 105 amperes.

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[Blue Chips]

A simple welded repair.

I've been working on our new driveway/garage project. To help prepare the driveway route for removing topsoil and installing crushed stone underlayment, I've been using a chain and the hook on top of the front bucket on my loader/backhoe to pull out small-ish (maybe 6- or 7-inch diameter) tree stumps by the roots. I managed to pull about eight or nine of them, until one of the stumps resisted my efforts and the hook snapped. I don't know if the hook already had a flaw in it, but in any case the hook was history.

First, I ground off the old hook, cleaned the area around it, and found a semicircle scrap of 3/16" steel to use as a reinforcing plate. It's the same thickness as the steel in that part of the bucket.

Instead of replacing the hook with another hook, I ordered a weld-on tie-down ring, which I thought would be more versatile for my purposes.

The tie-down ring bracket came with beveled edges, and I made a two-pass weld with full penetration. I then tacked the reinforcing plate in place prior to welding the edges.

After welding the edges of the plate, I primed the area and sealed the edge with (IIRC) paintable polyether urethane marine sealant to prevent water from getting behind the plate.

Then a couple of coats of more-or-less matching paint.

That should do the job, I think.

 

[Dozzer]

Just when you think a landrover has finished mucking you about. Pulled into driveway yesterday afternoon, go to put in reverse and gear lever goes sloppy, stuck in 1st
Was pulling the centre console and dashboard apart until 9 last night and another 2 hours this morning. Gear linkage fell apart on top of gear box, tried to reach from underneath but no chance.
Now in front of cartlodge thanks to ratchet straps and block of wood holding clutch down. Found at my age and fitness, you can't push 3T car on your own!
Only half finished, ordered all the repair parts and only broke 1 plastic clip. The little serrated roll pin is supposed to be in one piece not 3 going to change detent C clip in side of gearbox as well, apparently they break up and stop gearbox going into R, maybe why rollpin broke when Mongo then tried to jam it into R. SHMBO calls me the oaf.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Yesterday at the Shed, we held a bring and buy, a swop shop and of course people collecting item that have been donated.

This extra activity can un balance some members, so I tried to keep things in balance by still doing repairs and restorations.

No value in this tool. But it is true and no bad pits.


Warm Citric acid, dyed red. Just in case

It soon had the rust off, scotchbrite had the back oxide.

Drying the clear coat in the sun.

Then a few coats of Hard wax.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Junked, as it was "too rusty to be worth saving."
My ask.

Glass plate glass, 800 grit grinding paste, followed by 1,000 grit soon had the rust removed. The thumb indents I used a rounded stick and grindin gaste.

Then a clean and a wax. The blade did not need any attention.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This lot was a simple introduction to a few members on how to use a bench mounted grinder with a wire brush.
All the PPE etc.
Plus, what materials are needed to keep them in good condition.

Grinder Peg Spanner.
Via red citric acid.

Then a clear coat.

Bit of work.

Last set.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I can see a a lot of de rusting coming my way in a few weeks.
So, I got a few items, I collected from a good member up and running.

They only needed a tweak, a test and a dust.

A 115vac in put with a 5vdc out put Transformer.

As I got it.

New cable. rescued from a dead fridge. new 115v plug, Tool station.
The cable ties have been replaced by P clips. The connections are now covered with a plastic cover.

A 240vac input with a 13vdc output.


When I put it on the bench I noticed the top heat sink was not fixed. I must confess I think it may of been me.
Oh well.

Getting ready to be tested.

Broken M4 fixings removed and new M4 Allan bolts fitted.

Even a new plug.

 

[m_c]

Not really fixed, but rebuilt the brake calipers on my short travel full sus mountainbike today.

Stripped, dumped in ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes, blown out with compressed air, sat in front of the diesel heater for 10 minutes, then rebuilt with new seals and stainless pistons.
Should be good for another few years now.

 

[GRW]

Not really fixed, but rebuilt the brake calipers on my short travel full sus mountainbike today.

Stripped, dumped in ultrasonic cleaner for 5 minutes, blown out with compressed air, sat in front of the diesel heater for 10 minutes, then rebuilt with new seals and stainless pistons.
Should be good for another few years now.

View attachment 446698

Posh Hope calipers too - so worth the investment of time to look after.
(I've got the rather less exotic Magura stoppers on my e-mtb - do like the power & modulation though)

 

[Keithmac]

Had a Honda Goldwing Gl1500 in last week for a "Full Service"..

Bike turned up (we collected it) and straight off the bat the clutch wasn't working at all, slave cylinder handily placed in mo man's land at the back of the engine.

Onto doing the belts which wasn't difficult just time consuming due to the bloomin bodywork.

Air filter was a bit of an **** to get to, swapped plugs, etc all going well.

Went to start it and it was completely dead apart from dashboard display. Spent a while testing stuff to come across a 50amp fuse repaired with a lollipop stick!. Repaired that..

Next issue was no Neutral light, after checking it was nothing we'd done I ran the customer who informed me it was playing up prior to our work. Well the gear sensor was buried under the front engine case and no longer available so managed to strip and repair the original.

Put it all back together ready for roadtest, took it around the block and it didn't perform well at all.

Back on the bench and about 20 panels later got to the point of removing the carbs, rebuilt with WRP carb kits.

What a bloomin nightmare, never again!.

 

[Keithmac]

Norton Commander in for carbs, don't think you should be able to slide a feeler guage between carb body and spacer plate!.

God knows how they tightened the inside two nuts up, I've ordered a couple of allen bolts to put it back together with (using a ball ended allen key).

Need to flatten the flanges and try a rebuild kit first but he may be into a set of carbs (hopefully not).

 

[Seadog]

Surely that's a Dominator?

 

[RichardM]

You'll probably find the carb flange is bowed, Amals did that anyway! Should it be single carb?

 

[OJCar]

Norton Commander

or

Norton Dominator

 

[OJCar]

God knows how they tightened the inside two nuts up,

A very slim ring spanner that was sawn down.
Gave mine away with the bike when I sold it.

Amals often warp like that mostly due to ham fisted gorillas over tightening the mounting nuts.
Sometimes you can get them flattened out but often not.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

a 50amp fuse repaired with a lollipop stick!.

 

[Seadog]

A very slim ring spanner that was sawn down.
Gave mine away with the bike when I sold it.

Amals often warp like that mostly due to ham fisted gorillas over tightening the mounting nuts.
Sometimes you can get them flattened out but often not.

The other issue is, that in bowing the flange, it distorts the orifice

 

[ajlelectronics]

A naked big girl...

 

[OJCar]

Apparently, ham fisted gorillas frequently cause distortion of orifices.

 

[Robotstar5]

A naked big girl...

View attachment 446791

I was watching a video of the Dutch Police bikes, is that a BMW buried under all the emergency equipment?