- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
3000alloy
Member
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- 159
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- Ireland
Replying to my own post......
Briggs back up and running, still a bit lumpy but runs one the less.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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- 7,735
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- Teesside, England
qwakers
Member
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- 2,147
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- cornwall, united kingdom
copied and pasted from another forum
i might have gone a bit OTT when i bought a 2hp motor for my pillar drill, with the intention of swapping the original to my lathe....
original 1/2hp motor
new 2hp motor.
just need to sort the pulley out and put a slightly longer belt on it and all will be well...
.
.
.
turns out with a small modification to the belt tensioner (extend a slot 10mm) the original belt fits fine. belt on plug in and...
bugger, it spins the wrong way!
this actually isnt the disaster that it appears at first, due to the fact its a duel voltage induction motor (240 1ph and 480 3ph) and can be reversed. it even came with instructions from 1983 for how to do it...
that translates to....
yeah, that took me a while.... and a few blown fuses!
wires reversed once i eventually figured out which ones, and...
it looks exactly the same.
basically the unmarked black wire on the top right terminal and the same on the bottom right terminal are reversed, which reversed the polarity of the start winding and makes the motor run the other way. clever....
it has absolutely transformed the drill, as it should with 4x the hp it started with. it is now impossible to stall and the belt doesn't slip. win win!
now just to finish wiring it up (currently running straight to the wall, no safety interlocks or switches ATM...) and its done.
i might have gone a bit OTT when i bought a 2hp motor for my pillar drill, with the intention of swapping the original to my lathe....
original 1/2hp motor
new 2hp motor.
just need to sort the pulley out and put a slightly longer belt on it and all will be well...
.
.
.
turns out with a small modification to the belt tensioner (extend a slot 10mm) the original belt fits fine. belt on plug in and...
bugger, it spins the wrong way!
this actually isnt the disaster that it appears at first, due to the fact its a duel voltage induction motor (240 1ph and 480 3ph) and can be reversed. it even came with instructions from 1983 for how to do it...
that translates to....
yeah, that took me a while.... and a few blown fuses!
wires reversed once i eventually figured out which ones, and...
it looks exactly the same.
basically the unmarked black wire on the top right terminal and the same on the bottom right terminal are reversed, which reversed the polarity of the start winding and makes the motor run the other way. clever....
it has absolutely transformed the drill, as it should with 4x the hp it started with. it is now impossible to stall and the belt doesn't slip. win win!
now just to finish wiring it up (currently running straight to the wall, no safety interlocks or switches ATM...) and its done.
Ton-up
Member
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- 2,227
- Location
- Essex, England.
tflnemesis
Member
- Messages
- 650
Today i fixed the bang i am getting from the front of my car by fitting new drop links.
PIG OF A JOB!!!
I ended up having to cut all 4 ball joints off to get the old ones out, fortunately the new ones had a hex hole in the stub so tightening the new ones was realatively easy.
I also aquired half a dozen scrapes and nicks from spanners and sockets slipping and once from not aiming well with the BFH...
PIG OF A JOB!!!
I ended up having to cut all 4 ball joints off to get the old ones out, fortunately the new ones had a hex hole in the stub so tightening the new ones was realatively easy.
I also aquired half a dozen scrapes and nicks from spanners and sockets slipping and once from not aiming well with the BFH...
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,558
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
Today i fixed the bang i am getting from the front of my car by fitting new drop links.
PIG OF A JOB!!!
I ended up having to cut all 4 ball joints off to get the old ones out, fortunately the new ones had a hex hole in the stub so tightening the new ones was realatively easy.
I also aquired half a dozen scrapes and nicks from spanners and sockets slipping and once from not aiming well with the BFH...
i changed the driveshaft on the ovlov - 20minutes, doddle of a job.
AFTER i'd spent 2hrs cutting the balljoint off the droplink - the replacement increased parts cost by 30%
tflnemesis
Member
- Messages
- 650
I was fairly lucky that i managed to get enough slack in them to get a slittling disc onto the stub, but a lot of very not nice words were being uttered by the last one...
brightspark
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- 40,315
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- yarm stockton on tees
got the nuts off the ball joints on mine using the oxyacetylene torch a quick dab on the nut and crowbar to press link bar tight and it came strait off no damage no heat and it just turned without coming off
Craig-SM
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- 1,811
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- Heckmondwike
Repaired one of the rusty rear wheel arches on the Shogun, inner wing was much more rusted than expected making it a longer job. Just finishing off and impressed with end result when I noticed the cabin filling with smoke.
There was some foam behind the rear arch in a cavity that had caught fire spreading up the sunroof drain hose, the wiring harness and seat belt. Caught it just time so no serious damage but will require the rear quarter respraying now
There was some foam behind the rear arch in a cavity that had caught fire spreading up the sunroof drain hose, the wiring harness and seat belt. Caught it just time so no serious damage but will require the rear quarter respraying now
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
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- 9,558
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
Feet 'n Inches
Out of the rat-race at last
- Messages
- 545
- Location
- Devon, GB
Opened the wardrobe yesterday to find that the hanging rail had relocated itself to the floor. The plastic rail supports, fitted into the walls of the wardrobe via short dowels, look like they'd gradually worn their way through the wood but without actual damage to the supports. So, a lick of Gorilla glue to reposition the supports and down to the workshop. Luckily I had a short length of 12 x 2 bright mild handy so, some bends, twists and 4 screws later, and job done.
This is the best of a poor bunch of photos.
This is the best of a poor bunch of photos.
mangocrazy
Italian V-twin nutjob
- Messages
- 1,165
- Location
- Sheffield, UK
I bought a KTM Duke 690 R a couple of years ago and one of the things I wanted to 'fix' was the anaemic standard horn. When I read on KTM forums that the horn shares its mounting bracket with one of the radiator lugs, and that there had been many instances of radiator failure in that area, I (and a number of other owners) put 2 and 2 together and decided to relocate the horn. While I was doing that, I decided to upgrade to a Denali Soundbomb.
Once I had the Denali in my hand it was time to figure out how and where to mount it. It's reasonable to assume that had it been easy to relocate the horn somewhere else, then KTM would have already done it, so I couldn't find any obvious bolts or brackets to hang it off. The KTM frame is made of old-school steel tube, so I started casting around for clamps of the right size on which to mount it. After trying various search arguments on eBay I was presented with something that looked ideal - a rifle scope mount to clamp onto a 30mm scope (the KTM frame tube in my favoured area appears to be 1 1/8" (28.575mm) section). I could buy a pair of these for not much over a fiver from China, so I wasn't losing much if it didn't work. This is what they look like:
The two halves of the clamp are held together by 4 x M4 allen screws, which is plenty strong enough for my needs (i.e. to clamp to the frame tube), but I wasn't entirely happy with the prospect of two M4 screws being man enough to hold the bracket (and horn) that I was intending to use, so I drilled and tapped the two holes to M5 for the full length of the piece. To pack out the 1.5mm difference between mount and frame tube I just cut a strip of motorcycle inner tube to fit. Here's that clamp and bracket in position:
The bracket is simply a 20mm slice off some 40 x 40 x 3mm box section steel I had lying around, cut down into an unequal length L-shaped bracket, and drilled for the M5 mounting holes to the clamp and a single M6 hole for the horn mount. An M6 nylock nut fixes the horn to the bracket. Here's another view of the clamp/bracket:
It took a couple of goes to find a place on the frame rail to mount the horn that didn't foul my left knee when sat on the bike, and that wasn't completely impossible to fasten up the allen bolts on the clamp (there's very little clearance between the frame rail and the engine), but we got there in the end. I even had to shorten the 'short' side of the allen key, clearance was that tight. Here's the horn fitted:
I've yet to rig up the electrical connection (still waiting for some waterproof spade connectors to arrive), but that should be the easiest part of the job.
Once I had the Denali in my hand it was time to figure out how and where to mount it. It's reasonable to assume that had it been easy to relocate the horn somewhere else, then KTM would have already done it, so I couldn't find any obvious bolts or brackets to hang it off. The KTM frame is made of old-school steel tube, so I started casting around for clamps of the right size on which to mount it. After trying various search arguments on eBay I was presented with something that looked ideal - a rifle scope mount to clamp onto a 30mm scope (the KTM frame tube in my favoured area appears to be 1 1/8" (28.575mm) section). I could buy a pair of these for not much over a fiver from China, so I wasn't losing much if it didn't work. This is what they look like:
The two halves of the clamp are held together by 4 x M4 allen screws, which is plenty strong enough for my needs (i.e. to clamp to the frame tube), but I wasn't entirely happy with the prospect of two M4 screws being man enough to hold the bracket (and horn) that I was intending to use, so I drilled and tapped the two holes to M5 for the full length of the piece. To pack out the 1.5mm difference between mount and frame tube I just cut a strip of motorcycle inner tube to fit. Here's that clamp and bracket in position:
The bracket is simply a 20mm slice off some 40 x 40 x 3mm box section steel I had lying around, cut down into an unequal length L-shaped bracket, and drilled for the M5 mounting holes to the clamp and a single M6 hole for the horn mount. An M6 nylock nut fixes the horn to the bracket. Here's another view of the clamp/bracket:
It took a couple of goes to find a place on the frame rail to mount the horn that didn't foul my left knee when sat on the bike, and that wasn't completely impossible to fasten up the allen bolts on the clamp (there's very little clearance between the frame rail and the engine), but we got there in the end. I even had to shorten the 'short' side of the allen key, clearance was that tight. Here's the horn fitted:
I've yet to rig up the electrical connection (still waiting for some waterproof spade connectors to arrive), but that should be the easiest part of the job.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
- Messages
- 7,735
- Location
- Teesside, England
Aye, what is it about motorcycle makers that they flog a bike costing the neck end of 20 grand and still fit it with something robbed from a 1960s scooter?
Even my Pan Euro had a fly's fart for a horn... until I bought a pair of twin-tones and shoe-horned them in - the fairings may look spacious but there's very little fresh air left behind them.
New relay and a dedicated feed from the battery and it sounds like a Scania
(yes, I know, it weighs about the same as a Scania...
)
bigegg
Scream Not Working Because Space Make Deaf
- Messages
- 9,558
- Location
- Leeds, West Yorkshire
Aye, what is it about motorcycle makers that they flog a bike costing the neck end of 20 grand and still fit it with something robbed from a 1960s scooter?
Even my Pan Euro had a fly's fart for a horn... until I bought a pair of twin-tones and shoe-horned them in - the fairings may look spacious but there's very little fresh air left behind them.
New relay and a dedicated feed from the battery and it sounds like a Scania
My kids used to call my first Shogun "meep meep"
