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Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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So you upgraded then? Great choiceI missed both of mine so much I got a Freelander..
Are there 2 different brake calipers on that rear disc?
Morris
Member
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Got this done today and forgot to take photos
. Well, I took two. Useless.The one issue I had trying to do this at home was I had nothing high enough to put under the chassis to allow the axle to drop, which I needed to do to get clearance to get at the remains of the bracket on the axle.
I'll try to make this brief as I've nowt to show. I ground the old bracket stump off (I've just got some Norton powerfile ceramic belts, what a revelation) and put the new parts on using the radius arm to jig it in place. Bit of welding, bosh, done.
The other side was ok but the back was sketchy so I made a patch and welded that on (badly, access for all of this was awful).
My mate charged me nothing for using his workshop (he's a very good independent mechanic) so I bought a 10 ton press off him. Well, it would have been rude not to
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So you upgraded then? Great choice
Are there 2 different brake calipers on that rear disc?
Yes, the big one is the rear hydraulic brake caliper, the little one behind it is the cable operated handbrake caliper.
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Not fixed as such, but more of a service so it doesn't need fixing 
Few days over in Northern Ireland last week giving this setup (these are just a few bits of it) a service. New seals in all the automated valves, nrvs, mechanical seals in all the pumps and so on.
Nice to give this one its first service, I fabricated parts of it, landed it all in position at install too.
Few days over in Northern Ireland last week giving this setup (these are just a few bits of it) a service. New seals in all the automated valves, nrvs, mechanical seals in all the pumps and so on.
Nice to give this one its first service, I fabricated parts of it, landed it all in position at install too.
Half way through my MP3 500 job I had an MP3 300 Yorban to sort out as well.
It needed the steering tower bearings sorting out (set to proper preload and the towers greasing).
Luckily the "tie rod ends" on this one were fine.
Took longer to take all the bloomin panels off than it did to service the bearings! A bit daft really, they could have easily made a couple of removable panels instead of making you take the entire front to bits..
It needed the steering tower bearings sorting out (set to proper preload and the towers greasing).
Luckily the "tie rod ends" on this one were fine.
Took longer to take all the bloomin panels off than it did to service the bearings! A bit daft really, they could have easily made a couple of removable panels instead of making you take the entire front to bits..
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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I used it this week to iron my work shirts.
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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- Northern Ireland
So you upgraded then? Great choice
Are there 2 different brake calipers on that rear disc?
Who knew motorbikes had handbrakes?
Assume its a requirement for ac3 wheeler?
Bobupndown
What could possibly go wrong?
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- Northern Ireland
Picked up a used but working perfectly washing machine for £30 for the mancave. You'd think the space had been designed for it and conveniently located feed and drain waterpipes already there for the sink. Was but 15 minutes work to add a washing machine t piece and drain pipe.
I'll now be able to wash dirty work clothes and car cleaning cloths without invoking the wrath of 'er indoors' by using her washing machine.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I've been meaning to do this for about a year but, several issues and life/work/DIY got in the way. Seeing as I have two Tom Senior mills, I never use the milling function on the Warco W15/Minor that I have, the intention is to replace it with a Meddings drill that I renovated about a year ago. Its the same generic Taiwanese mill/drill sold under many names, Alpine, Draper and others.
Here they are side by side, I had just moved the Warco to the right so I could get a strop on it as the overhead beam for the winch stops just shy of the bench end. As my neighbour is using my engine hoist to get the engine out of his skid steer, the plan was to slide the mill onto the trestle table, but with a strop and chain around the drill in case it moves. its a heavy old lump.
It worked a treat, I'm meeting a neighbour tonight in the pub. These go for about £500 in decent nick, this is a bit sad looking and could probably do with new bearings, The bearings are all readily available and cheap being common sizes. So I could do it up for about £100 and get close to £500, or I could barter with the neighbour, I have some ground work and a bit fencing to do and he's got all the toys. This give me more workshop time in that I'm not renovating something I'm not going to keep, and I won't have to do the fencing or hire a digger in for the bit of ground work, probably about 2 or 3 hours worth.
One of the reason's it took so long was that the VFD for the Meddings kept tripping the RCD when left with no load for any length of time. So did the VFD in the wood lathe and a Tom Senior mill. It took me a while to fathom it out. It turned out to be the feeds to the brewery, they are attached to two solid state relays. For some reason, when I isolated these two MCBs, then everything was hunky dory,. So must be a small leak to earth. Since then I have swapped out the barn consumer unit for individual RCBOs rather than a split board with main RCD and MCBs. The problem is no more.
I hadn't come up with a good location for the speed control potentiometer on the drill, then it occurred to me that I could stick it under the bench out of the way. So a small die cast box, a chicken head knob and a bit of paint later and its sorted. I also made up some strain relief blocks for the VFD and reused a black plastic cover off the back of the telly to tidy it up, that's the black thing under the VFD.
The drill identifies as a British bike by leaking oil at a constant rate despite me chaining the quill oil seal to the closest size available off the shelf. I'm thinking of taking advantage of this by using cutting oil in it, kill two birds with one stone
Not really, its not that bad, its got the usual T32 Smith and Allen hydraulic oil in it. Takes about 300ml so not the end of the world to drain and refill occasionally.
Not bad considering its an amalgam of three different drills.
Cheers
Andy
Here they are side by side, I had just moved the Warco to the right so I could get a strop on it as the overhead beam for the winch stops just shy of the bench end. As my neighbour is using my engine hoist to get the engine out of his skid steer, the plan was to slide the mill onto the trestle table, but with a strop and chain around the drill in case it moves. its a heavy old lump.
It worked a treat, I'm meeting a neighbour tonight in the pub. These go for about £500 in decent nick, this is a bit sad looking and could probably do with new bearings, The bearings are all readily available and cheap being common sizes. So I could do it up for about £100 and get close to £500, or I could barter with the neighbour, I have some ground work and a bit fencing to do and he's got all the toys. This give me more workshop time in that I'm not renovating something I'm not going to keep, and I won't have to do the fencing or hire a digger in for the bit of ground work, probably about 2 or 3 hours worth.
One of the reason's it took so long was that the VFD for the Meddings kept tripping the RCD when left with no load for any length of time. So did the VFD in the wood lathe and a Tom Senior mill. It took me a while to fathom it out. It turned out to be the feeds to the brewery, they are attached to two solid state relays. For some reason, when I isolated these two MCBs, then everything was hunky dory,. So must be a small leak to earth. Since then I have swapped out the barn consumer unit for individual RCBOs rather than a split board with main RCD and MCBs. The problem is no more.
I hadn't come up with a good location for the speed control potentiometer on the drill, then it occurred to me that I could stick it under the bench out of the way. So a small die cast box, a chicken head knob and a bit of paint later and its sorted. I also made up some strain relief blocks for the VFD and reused a black plastic cover off the back of the telly to tidy it up, that's the black thing under the VFD.
The drill identifies as a British bike by leaking oil at a constant rate despite me chaining the quill oil seal to the closest size available off the shelf. I'm thinking of taking advantage of this by using cutting oil in it, kill two birds with one stone
Not really, its not that bad, its got the usual T32 Smith and Allen hydraulic oil in it. Takes about 300ml so not the end of the world to drain and refill occasionally.Not bad considering its an amalgam of three different drills.
Cheers
Andy
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MattF
Forum Supporter
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- 16,613
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- South Yorkshire
Not fixed as such, but changing these light fittings, (swivel filament bulb fittings):
over to this type, (7W LED):
They're underside of the mezzanine front, in the flat. Two already changed, last one awaiting me collecting some more junction boxes tomorrow.
These are classed as dimmer compatible, but I've swapped the dimmer switch out for a standard switch.
over to this type, (7W LED):
They're underside of the mezzanine front, in the flat. Two already changed, last one awaiting me collecting some more junction boxes tomorrow.
These are classed as dimmer compatible, but I've swapped the dimmer switch out for a standard switch.
It's classed as a trike (Class 3) so they need a rear foot operated brake (along with the lhs brake lever), a hand brake and a front track over 480mm between centres.
The first of the MP3's and the Gillera Fuocos were exactly same Chassis but needed a motorcycle licence (no foot brake and 480mm wheel centres).
The later ones are basically so people with a car licence can ride them..
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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- France, Brittany.
Finished welding the extendable towing arm for the trailer.
It's for the boat trailer.
It's for the boat trailer.
qwakers
Member
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- 2,116
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- cornwall, united kingdom
axle tube measured and cut. just got to manufacture the hub carriers and put it together...oops my trailer fell over...
ive cut all the old stuff off and am ready to weld the new axle on.... when ive made one that is....
qwakers
Member
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- cornwall, united kingdom
axle manufacturing time....axle tube measured and cut. just got to manufacture the hub carriers and put it together...
i came across the unusual issue of not having the right tool. well that's not quite true.
the issue is my mig is only 180amp, and to compound that it only has 0.6mm wire in it, so it's not up to the job of welding 15mm plate. i DO have a tig that will also stick weld, and it absolutely does have the balls to weld that heavy gauge, but this is a seriously mission critical weld, and i havent stick welded for a very long time... so i went off to dads workshop to use his 220 amp mig and as i was there it would have been rude not to utilise his plasma cutter and other nice toys whilst i'm at it.
after cutting the bit of 15mm plate to size i used a 82mm tct hole saw to cut the center hole. the chips from this are seriously evil. microscopic. sand like even. and seriously sharp. they get everywhere and hurt a lot. wear gloves.
his plasma is only 50amp so no its not going to manage neat cuts of this thickness, but it severed a 50mm square hole well enough. most of the issues and lack of neatness are because this is my first go with a plasma.
then all welded up.
the 15mm plate was welded together in 2 passes, a root and cap if you may. this is my first ever experience of that technique, so its not as neat as id like, but it'll be strong enough.
