Stuff you have fixed today

[bricol]

thats where i park and have never had anyone park there. in 8 years...

ooooh . . . that's stuffed it . . . somebody will dump a fully legal camper van and disappear . . .

 

[qwakers]

perfect. i could use a new camper

 

[Chillitt]

perfect. i could use a new camper

You could fill it with dirt...

 

[Mick Annick]

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Well the day was busy, so why not do more.




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When I got it, it didn't work.
Oh look a new bulb was fitted and................


Ok, The old one was very tight to remove, but a bit of applied force and it was free.


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BBQ rattle can paint, as it had rust killing elements.



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Fixing the earth point.


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Just passed the PAT.



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Haven’t seen one of those in years!

 

[Jelly_Sheffield]

That definitely wasn't an absolute bugger to refit.

The Makita approved method of torquing the chuck, clamp an Allen Key in the chuck, wedge the drill between vice and bench, and pull the trigger for 1 second in low speed.

Little bit of tru-blu because I couldn't find the locktite...

Bam! Old faithful is back in action alongside it's Kronenburg Monstrosity of a baby brother.

Best of all in my excitement this was all done wearing a pair of very light coloured chinos, which somehow have avoided getting any grease, carbon, or thread locker on them...

 

[Keithmac]

On with a Piaggio MP3 500 at the minute.

Customer came in on Friday complaining of "loose" steering, not ideal!.

Had a quick look and gave him a price for the job and he's dropped it off today to be repaired, said I would have to strip it down first due to cost of the suspect parts..

The joints under the rubber bellows are best likened to a tie rod end really, both worn out and £240 each!. No alternative other than genuine parts either.

The steering bar is driven from the middle via a boss and pair of needle roller bearings, a common weak point due to corrosion and another £100 in parts to fix.

He asked me to fit a back tyre, mentioned the "swingarm" (exhaust hanger and suspension support) bearing may need replacing, turns out someone has already been in there and made a royal mess of it all..

After taking the wheel off I noticed the rear caliper had been missing a pad retaining pin for quite some time, and the slider pin was not bolted to the carrier!. To top it off pads were worn down to the metal.

Managed to find some 2nd hand bits and make it all safe.

Just waiting for my gold plated tie rod ends to turn up and a few other bits to finish the job tomorrow.

I'll be having a good look around the rest of it before taking a test ride!.

 

[RichardM]

Looks like adding a grease nipple in the design would be useful.

 

[dobbslc]

Cheap economical commuting?
Scary stuff!

 

[bricol]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

 

[Seadog]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

Plain bushes are much better suited for use in a swinging arm.
I can't think of a single British bike that used needle rollers. Maybe the new Triumphs do, but they're too modern for me.

 

[tigdlo]

If that's the swing arm bearing, then perhaps it never moves enough to do much rolling of the needles? Looks more like fretting then actual rust. If the needles don't roll, the grease doesn't move to actually do what it's supposed to and the bearing false brinells. There are some grease scout there that claim to help - been looking at similar issue on a $3m machine.

For automotive I would use CV joint grease as it is for oscilating parts.

 

[qwakers]

just started grading it out. no more material should need to be removed, just moved about.

its pretty nearly there now, just have to get the grade right, compact it with the wacker plate, pour the retaining wall, put ground fabric down, sharp sand then block paving. once done ill pour a concrete wedge along the front and job jobbed.

well that was a lot of sweat...

final grade and compacted

road fabric and shuttering completed (i know its not straight. i ran out of motivation. never let perfect be the enemy of good enough. its not as bad as it looks in that pic) it gets wider as it gets closer to the road as the depth increases. this is intentional.

and poured. 3/4 ton of aggregate(a guess, may be less...), and 2.5 bags of cement.

i am absolutely knackered.

 

[Blobber]

well that was a lot of sweat...

final grade and compacted

road fabric and shuttering completed (i know its not straight. i ran out of motivation. never let perfect be the enemy of good enough. its not as bad as it looks in that pic) it gets wider as it gets closer to the road as the depth increases. this is intentional.

and poured. 3/4 ton of aggregate(a guess, may be less...), and 2.5 bags of cement.

i am absolutely knackered.

Not surprised I'm knackered just looking at it!

 

[awemawson]

Couple of days ago - torrential rain - lights go out - we are over head supply so it happens occassionally. Then I notice the red light on the telly - no not all the power just that lighting circuit. Rain got in somewhere? No sign anywhere. Reset the trip and it still trips out. Leave it a couple of hours and I can reset it so presumeably water got in somewhere.

Roll forward to today - not raining so make an attempt to clear the gutter hopper head by our back porch - this gets blocked regularly with leaves. Messy job but having pulled much leaf mould out time to flush it clean with a hose. Then we have no light again !

It's at this point I notice that the water overflowing the hopper head goes right onto the override switch for the porch PIR flood light - was THAT the cause. Sure enough opening the switch at least a cupful of water pours out. Drying it off and re- assembling it all is OK.

I seem to remember that these MK waterpoof switches have a bit you can knock out to leave a weap hole - I didn't check but will when I replace the switch as it's action now is rather hit and miss.

 

[Robotstar5]

Or just drill a small hole in the bottom of the enclosure.

 

[qwakers]

i might have slightly overloaded my trailer with wall debris when taking it to the tip. by about 150%....

it'll be reet! turned into bugger when i went over a particularly aggressive speed bump and bent a axle so the tyre was cambered enough to be hitting the bodywork even when empty.

now the correct fix is to put a 1 ton plus solid axle underneath. the fix available to me is a porta-power and a sledge hammer.

its straight again... for now.

its starting to move again and im getting concerned about fatigue. considering the use its had, its done well and im not upset about having to beef it up.

now i was going to find something like a original transit connect rear axle and butcher that, but ive had a thought.

lookit what i have.

2x astra j estate rear hubs. one used, abs magnet fell off, and one new. so ill fit the other new one to the car, then make a couple of backplates up to fit the hub out of (15mm?) steel plate (ideas here on how heavy it needs to be to reliably carry a ton plus off-road only ofc ) then weld it to some heavy box. (50mm i think) and obviously gusset it to make it nice and strong. then just weld it, no suspension, to the bottom of the trailer and job done.

 

[Morris]

Pre-emptive post for tomorrow's repair.
This bracket should be attached to the axle of my Sorento.

It's the top radius arm mount. Most of the mark 1 axles were repaired years ago due to this issue. The bracket was boxed and filled with muck and water causing said corrosion. How mine has survived this long is a mystery (it's done 165,000 miles). Kia did replacement mounts that were dealer fitted and were still doing this 5 years ago as a good will gesture.
Anyway, I had to make my own.

Off to my mates tomorrow to use his two post lift. I post the results.
I do have a spare axle now with a good LSD in it and replacement brackets which were clearly dealer fitted at a branch where no one could weld...

 

[qwakers]

its starting to move again and im getting concerned about fatigue. considering the use its had, its done well and im not upset about having to beef it up.

now i was going to find something like a original transit connect rear axle and butcher that, but ive had a thought.

lookit what i have.

2x astra j estate rear hubs. one used, abs magnet fell off, and one new. so ill fit the other new one to the car, then make a couple of backplates up to fit the hub out of (15mm?) steel plate (ideas here on how heavy it needs to be to reliably carry a ton plus off-road only ofc ) then weld it to some heavy box. (50mm i think) and obviously gusset it to make it nice and strong. then just weld it, no suspension, to the bottom of the trailer and job done.

some research has been done. rx8 wheels are damn near the same fitment, just the center bore is 3mm smaller. so im going to drop 2 of the many rx8 wheels i have off at the machinists on monday to have the center bore turned out and therefore i dont have to bother with finding wheels. modifying the hubs was also a option but it would mean i cant just use the astras spare if i get a puncture...

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Nice Coleman duel fuel Lantern came my way the other day.

What drew me to it was the mantles were good, the pump worked and the glass was original.

Plus the price was cheep.

The Coleman Mantles, here are the original, are held in place by metal spring clips.
Tilley Lanterns could copy and make them easier to fit.

A few tweaks of the glass spring plate had it in the correct positions.

Fresh fuel, tank in pressure and the lids in place.

Light and wait until the mantles are white hot. Then slowly go up to the light level you want.

 

[Onoff]

once done ill pour a concrete wedge along the front and job jobbed.

You would usually doing any such "haunching" before you block pave no?