arther dailey
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- 6,592
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- England
you could run a small factory from that , best best connect it up and turn every appliance on every few weeks , get the windings at least luke warm .
- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
sako243
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- 3,641
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- My mansion in Wales
Only 28kVA I think. It's main purpose was to power some mills in the workshop so need to actually plumb in some proper wiring now.
qwakers
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- cornwall, united kingdom
a little before christmas dad picked up a quad-x bucket and quick attach frame for his quad. spent 1/2 hour this morning fitting it. then the rest of the day fabbing up a modified front bracket to get the wobble out of it and mounting the winch to lift and lower the bucket.
then a couple of hours this evening painting the frame, all the brackets and modified rack.
then a couple of hours this evening painting the frame, all the brackets and modified rack.
Blue Chips
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- 647
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- Maine, USA
I guess you could call this a "fix." I didn't do it today, but just before Xmas. Due to a change in plans for the new garage (going with wider doors), I had to cut through the 8-inch-thick concrete foundation wall in six places to widen the door openings. It went quite well, and the flush-cutting diamond blade that I used in my 7-inch angle grinder shows hardly any wear at all. Because of the relatively small blade, I had to remove the concrete in a lot of small pieces, but it wasn't that hard to do.
I still have to drill and install one piece of rebar to replace a piece I had to cut through. I have a 36" bit for my hammer drill, and the replacement rebar will be anchored with the appropriate Sika anchoring product. There is a LOT of rebar in the footing and foundation wall, so it's really not necessary to replace the short vertical piece that I cut, but that's just the way I am.
I also installed the rest of the insulation board on the inside of the foundation wall (shown clamped in place while the construction adhesive sets). The builder is planning to start erecting the new garage in February. The concrete floor slab won't be poured until after the garage is erected, which will allow us to heat the interior just enough that it would be a normal pour instead of a 'winter' pour (i.e., with heated concrete mix, concrete accelerator, insulation blankets, etc.). The final grading and paving of the driveway probably won't happen until spring, although the underlayment is already in place (12" of 4" and smaller crushed stone, topped by 6" of 2" and smaller crushed stone and compacted). I'm thinking about installing a two-post lift in the garage, so the floor slab would be extra thick, with rebar sized and spaced per the lift company specs (or better). The interior and exterior perimeter drain system is already installed.
I still have to drill and install one piece of rebar to replace a piece I had to cut through. I have a 36" bit for my hammer drill, and the replacement rebar will be anchored with the appropriate Sika anchoring product. There is a LOT of rebar in the footing and foundation wall, so it's really not necessary to replace the short vertical piece that I cut, but that's just the way I am.
I also installed the rest of the insulation board on the inside of the foundation wall (shown clamped in place while the construction adhesive sets). The builder is planning to start erecting the new garage in February. The concrete floor slab won't be poured until after the garage is erected, which will allow us to heat the interior just enough that it would be a normal pour instead of a 'winter' pour (i.e., with heated concrete mix, concrete accelerator, insulation blankets, etc.). The final grading and paving of the driveway probably won't happen until spring, although the underlayment is already in place (12" of 4" and smaller crushed stone, topped by 6" of 2" and smaller crushed stone and compacted). I'm thinking about installing a two-post lift in the garage, so the floor slab would be extra thick, with rebar sized and spaced per the lift company specs (or better). The interior and exterior perimeter drain system is already installed.
Blobber
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- 2,813
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- lincolnshire
Im not going to be ashamed of this, ive seen worse on this very forum! 
You know how it is, you get tools out for a job and dont put them back!
A bit of my finest pallet wood, a few screws and bobs your aunty, none of your fancy snappoff gear here!
Might tackle the bottom shelf this year!
You know how it is, you get tools out for a job and dont put them back!
A bit of my finest pallet wood, a few screws and bobs your aunty, none of your fancy snappoff gear here!
Might tackle the bottom shelf this year!
Wow that's tidy...Im not going to be ashamed of this, ive seen worse on this very forum!
You know how it is, you get tools out for a job and dont put them back!
View attachment 478363
A bit of my finest pallet wood, a few screws and bobs your aunty, none of your fancy snappoff gear here!
View attachment 478364
Might tackle the bottom shelf this year!
Blobber
Member
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- 2,813
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- lincolnshire
You haven't seen the big bucket I scooped a lot of the stuff into, a job for laters!
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 12,109
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- Sevenoaks, UK
You haven't seen the big bucket I scooped a lot of the stuff into, a job for laters!
I have several of those big buckets/boxes of "laters"...
Edit: The boxes are marked "Garage", "Shed" and "Stable"...
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I think i am into the thousands now. My wife fills Aldi bags though.....I have several of those big buckets/boxes of "laters"...
Edit: The boxes are marked "Garage", "Shed" and "Stable"...
First time ever I put a new valve in a wheel myself. Seems easier when you see someone do it with a special tool I don't have. This small crowbar seems to be the tool for a thousand jobs.
I normally do this in warmer weather and don't remember the tire to go on this difficult, curious if a nigth in the warmer house wil make the rear one go easier tomorrow.
Craig-SM
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- 1,867
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- Heckmondwike
Replaced the seals in the opening kitchen windows. Should have been an easy job but the seals were just crumbling. Ended up having to remove the window but that created another problem as all the screw heads were rusted and the heads just rounded off.
Old seals eventually removed, frames cleaned and new seals fitted with hinges serviced and lubricated. Surprised by how much heat was been lost as kitchen is noticeably warmer and quieter too from external noises.
Old seals eventually removed, frames cleaned and new seals fitted with hinges serviced and lubricated. Surprised by how much heat was been lost as kitchen is noticeably warmer and quieter too from external noises.
cheb
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- 3,512
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- Outer Hebrides
I've a tool for that that screws into the core and does the same levering thing
jsf55
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- Sunny Swansea
It was head out for scrap as i never liked it, 2 ton Clarke jack, i read online it needed over pumping with no load to clear the air, so with that done i set about the sloppiest handle ever, a qick pinch on the front bit that works the release valve and a 5mm cap head instead of the pinch on the tube made it a much better
Do you happen to know the thread?
Tempted to make one for tomorrow.
cheb
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- Outer Hebrides
I'll check tomorrow if I pass my toolbox.
I may have got it wrong, it might screw onto the outside of the valve. Happily it's a long time since I used it, changing tyres by hand isn't much fun
