Stuff you have made today

[James1979]

Scrape the slag off the pieces in the bucket, and make or sell them on as airgun or rifle targets ?

That’d work actually.

Hanging targets.

 

[redlig]

Maybe if you made it for her you would have more chance of a begrudging s**g.
Then again, I've been cooking all our meals for years, all to no avail.

I'm told that the addition of Spanish Fly to a recipe works wonders and has no taste .

 

[Hood]

Needed some stainless 2. 1/2" U Bolts in a hurry, no place local have them so grabbed some M8 threaded rod and gave it a go on the wee brake, think it will work fine


Not U bolts but close enough

 

[Kram]

made up an adaptor so i can run a rothenberger off a big propane bottle
hacksawed the threaded end off its disposable bottle and silver soldered a hose tail on it , worked oiland chalk into the theads to stop them scaling
View attachment 363616

Does it work? I thought the direct attach torches had a big restriction to drop pressure down, and if your feeding it from a low pressure regulator, not much will get through?

Climbing shoe repair. The patch I put on months ago was excellent but I used a tube of glue that was going off, so it started to peel away, a new tube seems to have worked properly, just to clean up the excess.

 

[zeppelin builder]

it works no problem with an adjustable regulator like this just bring the pressure up from zero
like any other heating torch

 

[ihavenoidea]

Finally installed the main switch in my "workshop".

 

[Memmeddu]

I've been working on some little improvement to my mag drill
4 meters power cord with blue plug
Speed controller
And new cord between the drill motor and the magnetic base.
I have to complete the circuit ,make another hole for the power cord .
Little thing
The speed controller is very smooth at minimum but eventually the motor revs starts to be unstable like a machine gun but giving more power it will run smoothly again up to the maximum speed RPM.
There's any way to solve this problem?

 

[Memmeddu]

Completed the upgrades on my mag drill , tested and it works
Variable speed is not perfect but at least usable .
Now the drill can't be powered on if the magnet is turned off , they were independent before .
Changed the power cord path between the drill and the base
Put rubber grommets on both power cords .
It has 4.5 meters long power cord now and a 16A CEE plug .
Tested drilling on a C channel using a 6.5mm drill.
I'll eventually buy anular cutters for it.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Theses two items have been waiting to have something done to them for a while.

I found a lid, that fitted the jar. The dark stains are were the paint cracked off.
It has been re painted.

The grinder attachment was found in the dead pile of a charity shop.

Just need one nut to finish.

 

[Mick Annick]

Yet another chuffing handrail…

 

[DAPPH]

Theses two items have been waiting to have something done to them for a while.


View attachment 364336

I found a lid, that fitted the jar. The dark stains are were the paint cracked off.
It has been re painted.

View attachment 364338



View attachment 364339

The grinder attachment was found in the dead pile of a charity shop.

Just need one nut to finish.

The geezer turning the handle ?

 

[Brad93]

Today this Yamaha FZ750 frame got some holes in it...

 

[Red'n'Black]

I've been working on some little improvement to my mag drill
4 meters power cord with blue plug
Speed controller
And new cord between the drill motor and the magnetic base.
I have to complete the circuit ,make another hole for the power cord .
Little thing
The speed controller is very smooth at minimum but eventually the motor revs starts to be unstable like a machine gun but giving more power it will run smoothly again up to the maximum speed RPM.
There's any way to solve this problem?

Is it just a rotary dial to set the speed?
Behind that there will be a potentiometer, probably the track is worn or dirty. I would try squirting in some contact cleaner (Electrolube or similar, definitely not WD40!) and working the control end-to-end a few times. Fixed the electronic throttle body on my Saab that way, worked fine for years afterwards.
If that doesn't work, or if the potentiometer is all sealed up it will need a new one, see if you can post a few close up pictures of the old one and somebody will be able to advise.

 

[Memmeddu]

Is it just a rotary dial to set the speed?
Behind that there will be a potentiometer, probably the track is worn or dirty. I would try squirting in some contact cleaner (Electrolube or similar, definitely not WD40!) and working the control end-to-end a few times. Fixed the electronic throttle body on my Saab that way, worked fine for years afterwards.
If that doesn't work, or if the potentiometer is all sealed up it will need a new one, see if you can post a few close up pictures of the old one and somebody will be able to advise.

Yes just a simple SCR controller ,it has a potentiometer,no hall effect or RPM sensor.
Just a voltage regulator
It's smooth at very low speed then it acts like a continuous on off switch and then smooth again.
It's Born without a speed regulator

 

[MattF]

Totally unnecessary, but made another couple of threaded plugs to blank off the side handle holes on the angle grinder. Simply to prevent dust & crap accumulating in the holes. Never use the handle, as a rule. Did the other grinder the same, a few month ago.

 

[Memmeddu]

Worked on a friend of mine Nissan Trade .
He recently bought it ,to start his own excavation company.
But he eventually noticed that once the bed is completely tilted,the hydraulic cylinder touches the transmission shaft.
We gave a look together so I've found that the frame bar where the shocks absorbers are bolted one was like a banana.
Previous owner used to load a miniexcavator on it.
I believe that after years stressing the suspensions , hit after hit the frame got bent.
Causing the clearance issues between cylinder and transmission shaft.

So we solved it.
Welded the arm right in the middle ,to get it hot enough to be straightened.
Sledge hammer has been the tool.
Once straightened,we proceeded to reinforce the frame area .
So ground down the welded metal intended to heat up the frame.
I've used a ceramic flap disc, I've been impre how fast it eats metal .
Anyway
Cut a piece of 10mm flat bar and welded on the frame , making a tilted over T so I believe it will be enough strong .
The idea is that
They buil it using 3mm bent metal and has been strong enough ,but once bent , and elongated it won't be as strong as necessary .

We gain at least 60mm

That's has been my Saturday evening.
Unfortunately no pictures because various reasons but I'll make some soon since there's more work to do on it .

No pay for this job, it's a good friend, he's always ready to help me when needed .

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Did a thing. Old one had been bodged onto and modded over the last few years. Also went for ply this time

Been putting this off for a while.

Bit of sanding and filling them il spray it up black.


1st shelf. Power.
2nd 4x 5u racks and center storage.
3rd. 2 mixers and center storage.
4th. Mpcs keyboards and some synths. 4x 2u racks underneath.
Top for rest of synths.

 

[zeppelin builder]

finished off a daft wee bracket to clamp to brake pedal about mid way up to reduce brake pusher travel
for hand controls on grinnal "its still evolving " got to balance travel against leverage

 

[Woody.v8]

Dug a bit of a hole, shouldn't sink now with a foot of stone in

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Lost the light tonight. Will need a recoat first thing. Ply was sucking the paint up

Can dry while I'm pulling the wiring out of the old rack.

Not looking forward to the rewiring tbh.