Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,721
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
You have a tractor fetish.
A masseyve one...
Mechaphilia...it's real. Saw a programme where a bloke was getting it on with a VW Beetle.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
A masseyve one...
Mechaphilia...it's real. Saw a programme where a bloke was getting it on with a VW Beetle.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Must have been very painful as they have such small narrow exhaust pipes
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,326
- Location
- New Zealand
I would of changed the channel.
Sergei Slovenija
Member
- Messages
- 1,267
- Location
- Slovenija Ljubljana
Corrosion aluminum bowl, for chip caught and coolant in the lathe. Partial destruction of the wall of a deep hole under the bolt.
Fast Treatment: Ultrasonic washing; drilling under 8 mm; Heating and pressing of stainless steel tube; Painting 2K epoxy primer.
Fast Treatment: Ultrasonic washing; drilling under 8 mm; Heating and pressing of stainless steel tube; Painting 2K epoxy primer.
paulmitchell1984
Member
- Messages
- 821
- Location
- Leeds
Finally got them in, and stupidly forgot to take finished photos...but I did get 1, lessons learned from this, need to quote more time, measure 35 not 30 times especially when they are so far away, pretty certain iv made a loss, but at least customer was happy.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I made a simple height gauge so I could make a detailed contour map of the floor tiling that was supposed to be a good job.
If the tiler had said " Norfolk 'n' good "I'd have readily believed him due to what I discovered. A large almost 9 mm deep depression & a 3 mm high spot in a 600 x 1800 old removed bath footprint that was supposed to have been brought up & set with a 1 in 80 drainage slope to the wet room floor drain before the bath was installed .
Once it's done & it's almost leveled enough for 100 mm sq slip resist floor tiling ..... If when it's set this time tomorrow & it is within a couple of mm of being flat I'll tile up some of it on Thursday as I have3-4 mm of waterproof tiling adhesive I can play with to get a slight draining gradient to the wet room/shower area floor drain.
The spiky hedgehog roller I made for the job was pitiful , they are no longer in the £80 bracket of 25 years ago . They are £15 or so on eBay, made in washable plastic if you have a bucket of water or hose pipe handy asap you finish using it etc., .
Due to our darling posties going on strike the delivery was delayed by four working days as the carrier Everi got snowed under with their extra workload of strikers re directed goods.
A bit of scrap roof line UPVC board
The simple lazer line scale
The very handy accurate to 3 mm over 30 mtrs cross beam laser level
The contour map xxxxxx in green is 6 or more mm low the parallel lines in green are 3 to 5,5 mm low
One thing that irked me is that the bottom ( rh ) edge in the middle is 100 mm in from the rest of the floor tiling ( basically the RH outside grey edge of the picture , there is a four mm high lip adjacent to that rh tile line line so in effect there is an 8mm difference in gradient to the second row up . Bottom of the picture as you view it along the lowest outer line had up to 10 mm depression all along the outside wall .
No wonder the bathroom started to stink of stagnant water a few weeks after visitors managed to soak much of the wet room floor .. you could have swum in the puddle under the bath .
If the tiler had said " Norfolk 'n' good "I'd have readily believed him due to what I discovered. A large almost 9 mm deep depression & a 3 mm high spot in a 600 x 1800 old removed bath footprint that was supposed to have been brought up & set with a 1 in 80 drainage slope to the wet room floor drain before the bath was installed .
Once it's done & it's almost leveled enough for 100 mm sq slip resist floor tiling ..... If when it's set this time tomorrow & it is within a couple of mm of being flat I'll tile up some of it on Thursday as I have3-4 mm of waterproof tiling adhesive I can play with to get a slight draining gradient to the wet room/shower area floor drain.
The spiky hedgehog roller I made for the job was pitiful , they are no longer in the £80 bracket of 25 years ago . They are £15 or so on eBay, made in washable plastic if you have a bucket of water or hose pipe handy asap you finish using it etc., .
Due to our darling posties going on strike the delivery was delayed by four working days as the carrier Everi got snowed under with their extra workload of strikers re directed goods.A bit of scrap roof line UPVC board
The simple lazer line scale
The very handy accurate to 3 mm over 30 mtrs cross beam laser level
The contour map xxxxxx in green is 6 or more mm low the parallel lines in green are 3 to 5,5 mm low
One thing that irked me is that the bottom ( rh ) edge in the middle is 100 mm in from the rest of the floor tiling ( basically the RH outside grey edge of the picture , there is a four mm high lip adjacent to that rh tile line line so in effect there is an 8mm difference in gradient to the second row up . Bottom of the picture as you view it along the lowest outer line had up to 10 mm depression all along the outside wall .
No wonder the bathroom started to stink of stagnant water a few weeks after visitors managed to soak much of the wet room floor .. you could have swum in the puddle under the bath .
Last edited:
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Think of a price and how long things might take then tripple both of them at least. 
That way your customer has bragging rights as to such a beautiful job you've done and can then brag about how much it cost. .... win . win all round ?
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,634
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
I’ve acquired a few bits and bobs over the last year, so thought I ought to find a use for them - a pair of old machine (lathe?) stands, three barn door hinges, and some bolts.
I decided, unsurprisingly, on a table
I’m now waiting on some 50x50 angle to support the top, which I’ve yet to find - any suggestions?
I decided, unsurprisingly, on a table
I’m now waiting on some 50x50 angle to support the top, which I’ve yet to find - any suggestions?
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Looks like an old cheap motorised wood lathe stand from the 1950's
Soda blast it , spray it a strong graphite grey , clamp several cross pieces on the stand bed & vturn it into a shabby chic table using some beech wood strips for the top ....... well worth £350 on Esty if you're into that sort of unique thing.
Soda blast it , spray it a strong graphite grey , clamp several cross pieces on the stand bed & vturn it into a shabby chic table using some beech wood strips for the top ....... well worth £350 on Esty if you're into that sort of unique thing.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,634
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
They were dug up by a friend in a former farm yard, so probably nothing of quality. A neighbour has a sand blasting business so will do them for a bottle of wine or two.
Sergei Slovenija
Member
- Messages
- 1,267
- Location
- Slovenija Ljubljana
Square nuts were mass produced in those years? Unlikely
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
- Messages
- 5,773
- Location
- Manchester UK
The 300 bar bottle we use to top up airguns on the range lost the plot last week and let all the wind out. It was the main valve had broken, no doubt it was fed up with numpty's over tightening it. So, no spares so I made a replacement:
Using the little Centec to do the job it does best:
Using the little Centec to do the job it does best:
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Square Whitworth nuts were mass produced for use long before 1950's to fit on farm & military machinery , coach bolts & long end threaded bars & still are,
Look for examples on stationary authentically refurbished engines , threshing machines etc. at shows as well as late Victorian horse drawn coaches & 80 yr or more old classic cars .
Pop square Whitworth nuts into your search engine for an interesting history lesson.
Look for examples on stationary authentically refurbished engines , threshing machines etc. at shows as well as late Victorian horse drawn coaches & 80 yr or more old classic cars .
Pop square Whitworth nuts into your search engine for an interesting history lesson.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,634
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
The nuts and bolts, and the legs, are unrelated!
The first gates to go with the lattice posts,though these will hang off stone pillars,the low top eyes coincide with the best stones,there are more scrolls to add to compute pattern,then drop bolts on each plus a throw over loop. All scrolls forged.
Rest of the project to follow.
Rest of the project to follow.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,634
- Location
- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Two different styles of brackets, not sure which I will use yet.
They are for the lights on the crash bars on my bike. Currently they are on with clamps but they are bulky and I want to try and make things neater.
So cut some 4mm alu.
Two like this, only have pics once folded and the ends milled at a 10 degree angle.
The other set are like this before folding.
Folded.
A test of each on a bit of 25mm tube.
Pic showing them from the side, well the lower ones anyway
They are for the lights on the crash bars on my bike. Currently they are on with clamps but they are bulky and I want to try and make things neater.
So cut some 4mm alu.
Two like this, only have pics once folded and the ends milled at a 10 degree angle.
The other set are like this before folding.
Folded.
A test of each on a bit of 25mm tube.
Pic showing them from the side, well the lower ones anyway
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,041
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Top one welded onto the bar looks good if it is strong enough for what it is intended for .Two different styles of brackets, not sure which I will use yet.
They are for the lights on the crash bars on my bike. Currently they are on with clamps but they are bulky and I want to try and make things neater.
So cut some 4mm alu.
Two like this, only have pics once folded and the ends milled at a 10 degree angle.
View attachment 366038
The other set are like this before folding.
View attachment 366039
Folded.
View attachment 366040
A test of each on a bit of 25mm tube.
View attachment 366041
Pic showing them from the side, well the lower ones anyway
View attachment 366045
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,315
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
By looking at photos I have a feeling that it will interfere with the fairing or be very close to it hence the second design which will put the bracket about 25mm further out. I wont know until I get home and check, I also won't know if my 10 degree guess is correct or not
