Stuff you have made today

[Hitch]

Managed to get this frame welded up today. Lots to do to it yet, but that's for next year now.

Horrible, box all sat on the diamond.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Just a little purpose-built project.

We’re going to be installing roughly 250 short lengths of tongue-and-groove boards between the ceiling joists/beams in the old house that we’re restoring. There will be 3-1/2” of insulation between the T&G boards and the underside of the attic floor boards. Additional insulation can be added in the attic later on.

Each T&G board will have to be measured individually because the joists are hand-hewn beams (over 200 years old) that vary dimensionally, and we want to get a snug fit against the joists to create a clean and rustic Federal-period farmhouse appearance by eliminating the need for a moulding strip to cover the ends of the boards. We also wanted to leave as much of the beams exposed as possible for aesthetic reasons, and eliminating molding strips would expose more of each beam.

There were three prerequisites: 1. The measurements need to be accurate; 2. Measurements must be made perpendicular to the beams for best accuracy; 3. Measurements need to be quick and easy to transfer to the boards to be cut.

Getting accurate inside measurements with a tape measure can be done, but it’s a PITA to get measurements within 1/32”, and as mentioned, the tape must be held exactly perpendicular to the beam for accuracy, which isn't always easy to do. Also, measurements would need to be committed to my short-term memory (or written down) for transfer to the boards to be cut, which also introduces the possibility of adding to any measuring error. BTW, I also have a laser distance measuring device that is supposed to give +/- 1/16” accuracy, with increments of 1/32”, but I’ve found that it can vary a little with factors like reflectivity, temperature, etc., and there is still the need to make sure that it’s aimed exactly perpendicular to the joist.

TBH, the upshot of this is that I was actually just looking for an excuse to play in the shop and make a tool, so I fabbed up a purpose-built measuring tool that will provide accurate measurements, assure perpendicularity, AND make it easy to quickly and directly transfer the measurement to each piece of wood without significantly compounding any error.

I’m sure it’s not a new idea, but it was a fun little evening project and an excuse to dust off my mill.

First, I milled a couple of small stainless plates on my Bridgeport:

View attachment 377267

View attachment 377268

Then I drilled mounting holes, welded a couple of nuts onto the plates, mounted the plates on a 2-inch-wide rule, and installed a retractable spring-loaded drag and a locking screw (both with nylon tips). I also chamfered the edges a bit to avoid sharp edges. The black L-shaped rule that slides in and out of the the longer rule makes it easy to take a measurement perpendicular to the beam.

View attachment 377270

View attachment 377269

All I do is add the extended distance to the 24-inch length of the larger rule, or even better, I can simply lock the length with the locking knob and transfer the length directly to the board for cutting…no need to even note or remember the measurement.

Here’s a demonstration of a measurement between the joists with my gadget. Note the hand-hewn surfaces of the joists/beams. FYI, the beams average anywhere between 7.5" x 7.5" and 8" x 8" and are about 16 feet long.

View attachment 377271

If I want to use this gadget for longer inside measurements later on, I can remove the small L-shaped black rule and install a longer 1-1/2-inch-wide rule.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Just a little purpose-built project.

We’re going to be installing roughly 250 short lengths of tongue-and-groove boards between the ceiling joists/beams in the old house that we’re restoring. There will be 3-1/2” of insulation between the T&G boards and the underside of the attic floor boards. Additional insulation can be added in the attic later on.

Each T&G board will have to be measured individually because the joists are hand-hewn beams (over 200 years old) that vary dimensionally, and we want to get a snug fit against the joists to create a clean and rustic Federal-period farmhouse appearance by eliminating the need for a moulding strip to cover the ends of the boards. We also wanted to leave as much of the beams exposed as possible for aesthetic reasons, and eliminating molding strips would expose more of each beam.

There were three prerequisites: 1. The measurements need to be accurate; 2. Measurements must be made perpendicular to the beams for best accuracy; 3. Measurements need to be quick and easy to transfer to the boards to be cut.

Getting accurate inside measurements with a tape measure can be done, but it’s a PITA to get measurements within 1/32”, and as mentioned, the tape must be held exactly perpendicular to the beam for accuracy, which isn't always easy to do. Also, measurements would need to be committed to my short-term memory (or written down) for transfer to the boards to be cut, which also introduces the possibility of adding to any measuring error. BTW, I also have a laser distance measuring device that is supposed to give +/- 1/16” accuracy, with increments of 1/32”, but I’ve found that it can vary a little with factors like reflectivity, temperature, etc., and there is still the need to make sure that it’s aimed exactly perpendicular to the joist.

TBH, the upshot of this is that I was actually just looking for an excuse to play in the shop and make a tool, so I fabbed up a purpose-built measuring tool that will provide accurate measurements, assure perpendicularity, AND make it easy to quickly and directly transfer the measurement to each piece of wood without significantly compounding any error.

I’m sure it’s not a new idea, but it was a fun little evening project and an excuse to dust off my mill.

First, I milled a couple of small stainless plates on my Bridgeport:

View attachment 377267

View attachment 377268

Then I drilled mounting holes, welded a couple of nuts onto the plates, mounted the plates on a 2-inch-wide rule, and installed a retractable spring-loaded drag and a locking screw (both with nylon tips). I also chamfered the edges a bit to avoid sharp edges. The black L-shaped rule that slides in and out of the the longer rule makes it easy to take a measurement perpendicular to the beam.

View attachment 377270

View attachment 377269

All I do is add the extended distance to the 24-inch length of the larger rule, or even better, I can simply lock the length with the locking knob and transfer the length directly to the board for cutting…no need to even note or remember the measurement.

Here’s a demonstration of a measurement between the joists with my gadget. Note the hand-hewn surfaces of the joists/beams. FYI, the beams average anywhere between 7.5" x 7.5" and 8" x 8" and are about 16 feet long.

View attachment 377271

If I want to use this gadget for longer inside measurements later on, I can remove the small L-shaped black rule and install a longer 1-1/2-inch-wide rule.

Nice idea.

For tape measures this works well when you need accuracy for internals.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B093TGF88Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[roblane65]

Yesterday I made the small woodshed a little fuller as I was home a bit earlier
with me favourite chopper , we've been through some wood in the last week or so with the cold spell we had . shame it's not all hardwood logs but it all burns ok and keeps the house warm . I've a fair few big lumps still to process.

 

[bricol]

Horrible, box all sat on the diamond.

Was standard required for a local pet food factory, part of Mars group, to help prevent layers of dust/dirt sitting on flat surfaces. Also had requirements for how stuff was bolted down etc to prevent grot traps and make for easy cleaning.

Over the last couple of months, I've spent a lot of time in A&E waiting for my mum to be assessed etc, and I look around at the beds, equipment etc and wonder if they have similar for medical produsts. The bed seemed to have so many areas, joints, gaps, non-continuous welds, drain holes just above the lowest points etc, all making for harder cleaning and perfect places for crap to hide.

 

[qwakers]

box for the swirl pot and aux fuel pump...

 

[Hood]

I had managed to get the frame fitted and legs, supports etc made and welded on last week and today I finally got a decent day to get the sheets welded onto the table frame. Almost finished but I will need to get the skippers current boat alongside so that I can get the rear support frames finished as we had to come down the slipway yesterday and it had been too windy to get them finished.

 

[Fraserb]

Can't decide what deere to use in the middle of this.

 

[northwest]

Nice idea.

For tape measures this works well when you need accuracy for internals.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B093TGF88Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used one of these for years:



Now available on Etsy, but be quick only one left

Vintage Wooden and Brass Measuring Rule - Etsy UK

Vintage American Craftsman extension rule 3931 measuring up to 72 inches. Wood and brass construction with dimensions in inches. All hinges are right and tight and graduations are nice and clear, this is a very usable tool. Would also make a great display piece or photo prop Lots more to see in my

www.etsy.com

My toolbox must be worth a fortune, I think I have four or more in there. I must say though the earlier ones are very well made, not so much the later models. Only come in inches though.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I used one of these for years:

View attachment 377753

Now available on Etsy, but be quick only one left

Vintage Wooden and Brass Measuring Rule - Etsy UK

Vintage American Craftsman extension rule 3931 measuring up to 72 inches. Wood and brass construction with dimensions in inches. All hinges are right and tight and graduations are nice and clear, this is a very usable tool. Would also make a great display piece or photo prop Lots more to see in my

www.etsy.com

My toolbox must be worth a fortune, I think I have four or more in there. I must say though the earlier ones are very well made, not so much the later models. Only come in inches though.

Folding tapes don't survive well in my tool boxes. Gave up on them after the last break.

 

[Dr.Al]

Nice idea.

For tape measures this works well when you need accuracy for internals.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B093TGF88Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This one works really well: a tape measure with a fold-out bit that sticks out the back (but rolls up when you don't need it).

https://amzn.to/3Gf2Ah5

 

[Hood]

This one works really well: a tape measure with a fold-out bit that sticks out the back (but rolls up when you don't need it).

https://amzn.to/3Gf2Ah5

View attachment 377789

Do most tape measures not have a fixed size for the case? I am sure most of mine have the dimension moulded into the casing so simply add that to the measurement of the tape and you are set.

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Do most tape measures not have a fixed size for the case? I am sure most of mine have the dimension moulded into the casing so simply add that to the measurement of the tape and you are set.

Some do. Some don't.
Il do that for rough work but prefer what I linked for tight tolerances.

 

[Hood]

Never measured mine accurately, will have to do that today but it has worked out fine for fabrication sizes for me. Image below of mine, well not mine but the same as

 

[Hood]

Close enough to the stated 73mm for any measuring I will be doing with a tape.

 

[droopsnoot]

^ Would it have killed them to make it 3" or 75mm? I'm all for round numbers.

 

[Dr.Al]

Do most tape measures not have a fixed size for the case? I am sure most of mine have the dimension moulded into the casing so simply add that to the measurement of the tape and you are set.

Yes, they're usually written on the side, although they don't all seem to do it. The Hultafors one makes it a bit easier as the offset is a nice round number (100 mm) and the scale even has the internal measurement in red on the scale:

It's also got a scale on the back for direct diameter measurement:

 

[Hood]

^ Would it have killed them to make it 3" or 75mm? I'm all for round numbers.

It is American so it is really 2.7/8" which is 73.025mm so actually even closer than I thought

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

Upstands in the new year. I'm out.

 

[dobbslc]

Did you jack the stairs up and tile under? Looks good and I can feel your knees aching from here!