selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,327
- Location
- New Zealand
Made this brass spacer for a seat mount.
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Was that the tricky bitMade this brass spacer for a seat mount.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 29,540
- Location
- Scottish Highlands
Don't worry.. I wouldn't let the kids shoot pencils really. Nor nails, scribers, etc. It's also fitted with the weakest spring ever.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,238
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
Drilled four holes in the sides of my low-angle jack plane to make it a bit easier to adjust the blade (the Norris adjuster is much more finickity than the ones you get on a bevel down plane).
Getting those holes in the right place took a bit of care and attention, but it worked out well:
Took me almost 2 hours to drill and tap four holes
Getting those holes in the right place took a bit of care and attention, but it worked out well:
Took me almost 2 hours to drill and tap four holes
Blue Chips
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 622
- Location
- Maine, USA
Just a little purpose-built project.
We’re going to be installing roughly 250 short lengths of tongue-and-groove boards between the ceiling joists/beams in the old house that we’re restoring. There will be 3-1/2” of insulation between the T&G boards and the underside of the attic floor boards. Additional insulation can be added in the attic later on.
Each T&G board will have to be measured individually because the joists are hand-hewn beams (over 200 years old) that vary dimensionally, and we want to get a snug fit against the joists to create a clean and rustic Federal-period farmhouse appearance by eliminating the need for a moulding strip to cover the ends of the boards. We also wanted to leave as much of the beams exposed as possible for aesthetic reasons, and eliminating molding strips would expose more of each beam.
There were three prerequisites: 1. The measurements need to be accurate; 2. Measurements must be made perpendicular to the beams for best accuracy; 3. Measurements need to be quick and easy to transfer to the boards to be cut.
Getting accurate inside measurements with a tape measure can be done, but it’s a PITA to get measurements within 1/32”, and as mentioned, the tape must be held exactly perpendicular to the beam for accuracy, which isn't always easy to do. Also, measurements would need to be committed to my short-term memory (or written down) for transfer to the boards to be cut, which also introduces the possibility of adding to any measuring error. BTW, I also have a laser distance measuring device that is supposed to give +/- 1/16” accuracy, with increments of 1/32”, but I’ve found that it can vary a little with factors like reflectivity, temperature, etc., and there is still the need to make sure that it’s aimed exactly perpendicular to the joist.
TBH, the upshot of this is that I was actually just looking for an excuse to play in the shop and make a tool, so I fabbed up a purpose-built measuring tool that will provide accurate measurements, assure perpendicularity, AND make it easy to quickly and directly transfer the measurement to each piece of wood without significantly compounding any error.
I’m sure it’s not a new idea, but it was a fun little evening project and an excuse to dust off my mill.
First, I milled a couple of small stainless plates on my Bridgeport:
Then I drilled mounting holes, welded a couple of nuts onto the plates, mounted the plates on a 2-inch-wide rule, and installed a retractable spring-loaded drag and a locking screw (both with nylon tips). I also chamfered the edges a bit to avoid sharp edges. The black L-shaped rule that slides in and out of the the longer rule makes it easy to take a measurement perpendicular to the beam.
All I do is add the extended distance to the 24-inch length of the larger rule, or even better, I can simply lock the length with the locking knob and transfer the length directly to the board for cutting…no need to even note or remember the measurement.
Here’s a demonstration of a measurement between the joists with my gadget. Note the hand-hewn surfaces of the joists/beams. FYI, the beams average anywhere between 7.5" x 7.5" and 8" x 8" and are about 16 feet long.
If I want to use this gadget for longer inside measurements later on, I can remove the small L-shaped black rule and install a longer 1-1/2-inch-wide rule.
We’re going to be installing roughly 250 short lengths of tongue-and-groove boards between the ceiling joists/beams in the old house that we’re restoring. There will be 3-1/2” of insulation between the T&G boards and the underside of the attic floor boards. Additional insulation can be added in the attic later on.
Each T&G board will have to be measured individually because the joists are hand-hewn beams (over 200 years old) that vary dimensionally, and we want to get a snug fit against the joists to create a clean and rustic Federal-period farmhouse appearance by eliminating the need for a moulding strip to cover the ends of the boards. We also wanted to leave as much of the beams exposed as possible for aesthetic reasons, and eliminating molding strips would expose more of each beam.
There were three prerequisites: 1. The measurements need to be accurate; 2. Measurements must be made perpendicular to the beams for best accuracy; 3. Measurements need to be quick and easy to transfer to the boards to be cut.
Getting accurate inside measurements with a tape measure can be done, but it’s a PITA to get measurements within 1/32”, and as mentioned, the tape must be held exactly perpendicular to the beam for accuracy, which isn't always easy to do. Also, measurements would need to be committed to my short-term memory (or written down) for transfer to the boards to be cut, which also introduces the possibility of adding to any measuring error. BTW, I also have a laser distance measuring device that is supposed to give +/- 1/16” accuracy, with increments of 1/32”, but I’ve found that it can vary a little with factors like reflectivity, temperature, etc., and there is still the need to make sure that it’s aimed exactly perpendicular to the joist.
TBH, the upshot of this is that I was actually just looking for an excuse to play in the shop and make a tool, so I fabbed up a purpose-built measuring tool that will provide accurate measurements, assure perpendicularity, AND make it easy to quickly and directly transfer the measurement to each piece of wood without significantly compounding any error.
I’m sure it’s not a new idea, but it was a fun little evening project and an excuse to dust off my mill.
First, I milled a couple of small stainless plates on my Bridgeport:
Then I drilled mounting holes, welded a couple of nuts onto the plates, mounted the plates on a 2-inch-wide rule, and installed a retractable spring-loaded drag and a locking screw (both with nylon tips). I also chamfered the edges a bit to avoid sharp edges. The black L-shaped rule that slides in and out of the the longer rule makes it easy to take a measurement perpendicular to the beam.
All I do is add the extended distance to the 24-inch length of the larger rule, or even better, I can simply lock the length with the locking knob and transfer the length directly to the board for cutting…no need to even note or remember the measurement.
Here’s a demonstration of a measurement between the joists with my gadget. Note the hand-hewn surfaces of the joists/beams. FYI, the beams average anywhere between 7.5" x 7.5" and 8" x 8" and are about 16 feet long.
If I want to use this gadget for longer inside measurements later on, I can remove the small L-shaped black rule and install a longer 1-1/2-inch-wide rule.
![i,g]](https://i.imgur.com/M5HtCWWh.jpg[/i,g])
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,656
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Altered, rather than made. Had a clumsy oaf moment the other week, & knocked one of the grinders out of its holder, so remade the section which holds them.
Original at rear, new at front. Now the only part which fits through the front slot is the skinny end of the handle down by the battery,
so now they have to be lifted up to slide them out of the holder. The top end is too wide to come straight out.
Original at rear, new at front. Now the only part which fits through the front slot is the skinny end of the handle down by the battery,
so now they have to be lifted up to slide them out of the holder. The top end is too wide to come straight out.
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,656
- Location
- South Yorkshire
Today I started to make a wood pile, ..........to be continued
Bob
View attachment 377414
View attachment 377413
I think you've safely bested anyone elses best efforts there.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 11,728
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Today I started to make a wood pile, ..........to be continued
Bob
View attachment 377414
View attachment 377413
Are you going to keep a log?
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,389
- Location
- Kent, UK
Today I started to make a wood pile, ..........to be continued
Bob
View attachment 377414
View attachment 377413
How are you liking that Liugonwrong Bob?
8ob
Member
- Messages
- 13,859
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
Hasnt missed a beat Pete ( kinnel that rhymes). Its had a set of tracks and thats about it, cant fault it.
Bob
That would go well on my seasoning rack, keep my two log burners going a while.Today I started to make a wood pile, ..........to be continued
Bob
View attachment 377414
View attachment 377413
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 4,886
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
That look like good saw logs from here (send to sawmill)Today I started to make a wood pile, ..........to be continued
Bob
View attachment 377414
View attachment 377413
8ob
Member
- Messages
- 13,859
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
Client is keeping them and getting them milled,they are Monterey Pines ( Mericun) which are quite rare here, tend to get them along our south coast.
Bob
