- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
25.4_mechanic
Member
- Messages
- 1,046
- Location
- Germany, southwest
Please forgive my ignorance, but what is it about this design that prevents rainwater and impact water from running down behind the outer top edge and inwards along the slope?
I think I understood that the entire outer metal window frame was embedded in a mortar bed, but still, according to everything I know, water would be directed behind it inwards ...
Thanks for any enlightenment ...
Carsten
--
ajlelectronics
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 9,598
- Location
- Gloucester, England
A good question; one that excercised my mind too! The stone wall is tied back across a 100mm cavity to a 200mm untreated local timber frame with 35mm Savolit board (mineralised wood fibre) on the outside. Savolit is pretty much impervious to moisture and frost. The rest of the house is clad in weathering steel, maintaining the cavity gap with Z channels which the panels screw onto. As the steel is warmed, it draws up the air through the cavity and vents it at the ridge, ensuring the timber wall's vapour gradient is inside to outside so it can never become damp despite having no plastic membranes.Please forgive my ignorance, but what is it about this design that prevents rainwater and impact water from running down behind the outer top edge and inwards along the slope?
View attachment 387406
I think I understood that the entire outer metal window frame was embedded in a mortar bed, but still, according to everything I know, water would be directed behind it inwards ...
Thanks for any enlightenment ...
Carsten
--
The reveal top is angled slightly forward from level, so any water dripping from the outside or inside surfaces of the wall is directed outwards if it hits the top of the reveal. The mortar will be packed between the stone and the reveal edge (the reveal is proud by 1/2" or so), so the fillet above will tend to shed water. I considered a dam halfway back on the top surface of the reveal, but experience has shown it's not necessary. This detail only applies to this facade, which is north-facing onto a sheltered courtyard in a wooded valley, and with the prevailing wind being southwesterly it is uncommon to have any rain falling on this face.
We've sealed around the windows to the timber frame with oakum (flax fibres impregnated with Stockholm tar from pine trees), and the red colour you can see behind the reveal is the edge of the window frame that's been painted with red linseed paint. All this should be particularly water repellent even if some does get back there between the steel and wood. If it turns out to be problematic, the reveals are attached to the frames with coach screws so can be taken out without affecting any other part of the building, and they can be adjusted.
It's heuristic, or 'designing through making'!
25.4_mechanic
Member
- Messages
- 1,046
- Location
- Germany, southwest
Is this what we call here the "normative force of the factual"?
Or the old engineering joke that goes like: "Will we determine it empirically or do we just want to try it out?"
Ok, thank you very much for your efforts to explain
... you don't happen to have a finished sectional drawing of the concrete solution available???? 
... I always get bat ears at such solutions, because one of our buildings in Mecklenburg has thick exterior walls made of grass-iron stone (bog iron ore - or what do you call it?) which insulates absolutely fantastically with its many air pockets, but we get problems in damn near every place where we bring modern materials in touch with it ....
Carsten
--
Last edited:
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,330
- Location
- New Zealand
Nortriptyline Hydrochloride
There's never been wind driven rain in this location as it's too sheltered and facing the wrong way. In the particularly heavy weather we had this winter, most of the wall remains dry from its position and the overhang of the roof. Fingers crossed it's immaterial even if it were more exposed, as the stone is acting as a rain screen rather than an absolutely weathertight layer. Any wet that were to get through into the cavity will be dried by the ventilation, and if it gets 30cm uphill along the reveal top to the wall, it's got 35mm of vapour-open board to get through before it reaches the wood-fibre insulation, and even then the lack of membranes means there's no interstitial condensation for it to join up with and have a party. My only concern if it tracked back so far is the possibility of water collecting between the steel and timber of the window frame, in which case a dam or cork seal will probably be in order.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,054
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
Had a near miss this morning a tiny bit of rolled 1.5 mm thick by 8 mm dia & 11 mm wide decided to unroll and come off the lifting arm's yolk pin when my 60kg electric wheelchair was about to get hoisted up and put in the back of my Turismo , resulting in the spreader / hoisting bar with the lifting straps on it connected to the wheel chair ...... falling off the hoist arm and landing on top of the wheel chair with a loud bang .
I spent a few icy minutes trying top refit it and get it back to a sound wiorking state but it came adrift again . so I turned up a stainless steel cylinder 8 mm OD x 6,38 mm ID by 11.5 mm long using a 35 mm long knob end of scrap 25 mm in diameter
I thank god I had the sense to put the diesel heater in the mancupboard or I'd have been far too cold to stand at the lathe and turn the bush up as it was minus 2 oC with a strong bone chilling breeze blowing .
The picture is of the failed part that could have had serious consequences for me such as causing the 60 kg electric wheel chair to fall out the back of the cargo area on my legs if it had failed when it was 620 mm up at the cargo bed level .
Ruler is in mm . I haven't a clue as to why it opened up along its split , the stainless steel ferrule I've made & fitted should sort it permanently and safely .
I spent a few icy minutes trying top refit it and get it back to a sound wiorking state but it came adrift again . so I turned up a stainless steel cylinder 8 mm OD x 6,38 mm ID by 11.5 mm long using a 35 mm long knob end of scrap 25 mm in diameter
I thank god I had the sense to put the diesel heater in the mancupboard or I'd have been far too cold to stand at the lathe and turn the bush up as it was minus 2 oC with a strong bone chilling breeze blowing .
The picture is of the failed part that could have had serious consequences for me such as causing the 60 kg electric wheel chair to fall out the back of the cargo area on my legs if it had failed when it was 620 mm up at the cargo bed level .
Ruler is in mm . I haven't a clue as to why it opened up along its split , the stainless steel ferrule I've made & fitted should sort it permanently and safely .
Norsk
Member
- Messages
- 528
- Location
- Norway
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,245
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
Today & yesterday I made these bits (apart from the bearings and screws, unsurprisingly):
I then put them together to make this (the big one, with its little brother that I made from a kit a while ago):
I then tried it out and made this...
... 8 mm AF, 15 mm deep hexagonal hole in a bit of 16 mm stainless steel bar.
The design was very closely based on the one from the Hemingway Kit that I'd previously made. I basically just doubled most of the dimensions and then tweaked it for 12 mm silver steel broaches and to suit standard size bearings (as you can't get bearings in exactly double the size of the ones in the Hemingway kit).
The Hemingway kit one will do up to 6 mm AF and up to 7 mm deep, but I want to be able to cut a 14‑ish millimetre deep, 8 mm AF hole for an upcoming project and I thought it would be fun to see if I could scale up the Hemingway design.
I then put them together to make this (the big one, with its little brother that I made from a kit a while ago):
I then tried it out and made this...
... 8 mm AF, 15 mm deep hexagonal hole in a bit of 16 mm stainless steel bar.
The design was very closely based on the one from the Hemingway Kit that I'd previously made. I basically just doubled most of the dimensions and then tweaked it for 12 mm silver steel broaches and to suit standard size bearings (as you can't get bearings in exactly double the size of the ones in the Hemingway kit).
The Hemingway kit one will do up to 6 mm AF and up to 7 mm deep, but I want to be able to cut a 14‑ish millimetre deep, 8 mm AF hole for an upcoming project and I thought it would be fun to see if I could scale up the Hemingway design.
Brad93
Member
- Messages
- 18,416
- Location
- Essex, United Kingdom
Have you got the plans? I fancy a go at one of these.
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 2,245
- Location
- Gloucestershire, UK
I haven't done proper drawings (although I did a CAD model): I just sketched some scribbles on a bit of paper from the model.
To be honest, I'm a bit reticent to share the model or any drawings as it's a blatant knock-off of the Hemingway design (and, for anything up to 6 mm hex, the Hemingway one is probably better as it's shorter and hence stiffer).
The Hemingway kit is brilliant and I don't feel it would be quite right to share what is essentially their IP, sorry. I'd seriously recommend the kit though: I use mine all the time & it works great.
DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
- Messages
- 7,054
- Location
- Near to Cross Hands Llanelli SouthWales GB
I would have thought due to the cold weather the monkey could have done with a welder
Duisky
Member
- Messages
- 42
- Location
- Scotland
A bit light recommissioning on this Italjet. I’ve had a for years but done nothing with it until now. I’ve had it running, and in all honestly it sounds pretty good.
Yesterday I made up a flywheel cover as the originals were plastic and now unobtainable. 3D printed versions are available but I thought it would be just as easy to make one; a bit of rolling, swaging, welding and grinding - all good practice. I’ve since crudely painted it black to try and blend it in with the rest of the bike.
Today I made up a new seat pan for it. I was going to leave it to keep it ‘original’ but it really was too far gone, and given that there’s new shocks, cables, kill switch, and tires, I don’t think a seat would look out of place - I’m in two minds wether to use some old vinyl to disguise it a bit, but we’ll see. Will make up a cover and foam pad later in the week for it.
Yesterday I made up a flywheel cover as the originals were plastic and now unobtainable. 3D printed versions are available but I thought it would be just as easy to make one; a bit of rolling, swaging, welding and grinding - all good practice. I’ve since crudely painted it black to try and blend it in with the rest of the bike.
Today I made up a new seat pan for it. I was going to leave it to keep it ‘original’ but it really was too far gone, and given that there’s new shocks, cables, kill switch, and tires, I don’t think a seat would look out of place - I’m in two minds wether to use some old vinyl to disguise it a bit, but we’ll see. Will make up a cover and foam pad later in the week for it.
