Stuff you have made today

[25.4_mechanic]

The design was very closely based on the one from the Hemingway Kit that I'd previously made. I basically just doubled most of the dimensions and then tweaked it for 12 mm silver steel broaches and to suit standard size bearings (as you can't get bearings in exactly double the size of the ones in the Hemingway kit).

To be honest, I'm a bit reticent to share the model or any drawings as it's a blatant knock-off of the Hemingway design (and, for anything up to 6 mm hex, the Hemingway one is probably better as it's shorter and hence stiffer).

OMG my Hemingway shopping-list is getting longer and longer - and I'm blaming you lot for having done that to me

Thanks Al for sharing your solution! I'm motivated like hell



Carsten

--

 

[Dr.Al]

OMG my Hemingway shopping-list is getting longer and longer - and I'm blaming you lot for having done that to me

I've got the floating reamer holder kit as well, but haven't got round to making that one yet. Partly because I haven't really needed it ever, so there's less of a drive to get it finished. It's also (like most Hemingway kits) all in imperial units and I'm planning to model it in CAD and tweak the design to get it out of the 19th century before I make it.

The rotary broach is more civilised, being in metric! It's also a fairly quick build: I think I made the original one in a day. The scaled up version (for which I followed my drawings, but Hemingway's instructions) took me two afternoons: one to do the turning and one to do the milling.

 

[Onoff]

Today I made my big brother happy.

65 years ago he collected some pebbles on a beach in Dorset when he was 5. Came home and as Dad was casting the garden path he set them in it. My brother quote fancied having the stones/a section of path in his garden.

Oh boy, old concrete was tough but I was damned if it was going to beat me. The 4" deep cut on the 12" Stihl wasn't quite deep enough so I banged some bolsters in as wedges:

I win!

I'll resin in some studs and cast a new section of concrete.

 

[mtt.tr]

I haven't done proper drawings (although I did a CAD model): I just sketched some scribbles on a bit of paper from the model.

To be honest, I'm a bit reticent to share the model or any drawings as it's a blatant knock-off of the Hemingway design (and, for anything up to 6 mm hex, the Hemingway one is probably better as it's shorter and hence stiffer).

The Hemingway kit is brilliant and I don't feel it would be quite right to share what is essentially their IP, sorry. I'd seriously recommend the kit though: I use mine all the time & it works great.

What sort of angle did you use for the shaft?

 

[brewdexta]

I'm making more fitted cupboards and drawers for my daughter's bedroom, loads of off cuts of MDF left, so I set about making some drawers for the old workbench.

The workbench is nothing to shout out about, but it came with the house, it was in the old barn which is now the lounge. It kinds of feels like it belongs here.

it did have a drawer at one time, there is still a drawer runner existing on the right and a gap where the other is missing.

So found some old bits of oak skirting board and made some more

The drawers fit despite the drawer runners being of the cheaper variety.

I wanted files, BFHs and hacksaws but looks like I don't have much room for BFH so will mount a couple elsewhere

Added a few dividers, I'll give the drawers a couple of coats of Bona Mega floor sealer and put some old rubber button flooring in the bottom then its done.

Its beer O'clock!

 

[Seadog]

Ideally you should have slotted inserts to sit the files in, so that aren't in contact with each other.

 

[brewdexta]

Ideally you should have slotted inserts to sit the files in, so that aren't in contact with each other.

That's posh Graham. I was thinking of wrapping them individually in ermine, will that do?

 

[Barking Mat]

That's posh Graham. I was thinking of wrapping them individually in ermine, will that do?

Fake fur is cheaper.

 

[Dr.Al]

What sort of angle did you use for the shaft?

1° (with 2.5° relief on the cutter).

 

[m_c]

What sort of angle did you use for the shaft?

IIRC the Hemingway kit only uses shims to create the angle. It's not ideal, but it works.
I did have a Hemingway book somewhere, but can't remember if it included the rotary broach, and I'm not even sure where the book is.

 

[Dr.Al]

IIRC the Hemingway kit only uses shims to create the angle. It's not ideal, but it works.
I did have a Hemingway book somewhere, but can't remember if it included the rotary broach, and I'm not even sure where the book is.

It suggests using a shim (feeler gauge) to *cut* the angle in the body. The feeler gauge lifts one end of the body up in the vice (by a distance chosen to be diameter × sin(1°) ). Once the top (rear) face of the body is then machined, it sits at 1° to the shank that it mounts to.

I'm not sure what's not ideal about that; it's just a crude version of machining with a sine bar.

 

[Gareth J]

I bought a metal dustpan for the fire, was some cheap and nasty thing from eBay. But it was too wide!

Considered buying a smaller version but instead got off my **** and went to the workshop to cobble something together.

Much nicer. Slightly over 1mm sheet, some offcuts from Bott iirc, a bit of old table tennis table leg and some copper nails. Decided not to paint it. Impatience was a factor deciding that.

 

[m_c]

It suggests using a shim (feeler gauge) to *cut* the angle in the body. The feeler gauge lifts one end of the body up in the vice (by a distance chosen to be diameter × sin(1°) ). Once the top (rear) face of the body is then machined, it sits at 1° to the shank that it mounts to.

I'm not sure what's not ideal about that; it's just a crude version of machining with a sine bar.

For some reason I thought they used the feeler gauge/shim during assembly, not to machine the angle.

I'll have to have a rummage for the book, as IIRC it contained some interesting items.
It's possibly on the shelves in the workshop, as I think it contained some handy reference tables.

 

[DAPPH]

Ideally you should have slotted inserts to sit the files in, so that aren't in contact with each other.

1/4 " Wooden dowel pins as separators works well too if you have room under the drawer to take the extra thickness of wood needed.

 

[Blue Chips]

I just did a bit more work in the upstairs bathroom of our project house. I finished grouting the tiles for the shower enclosure and put three applications of penetrating sealer/impregnator on the tiles and grout joints. I'll probably do one or two more applications. There is a very slight darkening of the grout with each applications, as planned.

The next step will be to prepare the plywood floor to receive the Corkoleum flooring that I'm planning to install. To prep the floor for the flooring adhesive, I plan to check all of the screws for tightness, fill the recesses/countersinks above each screw with a high-bond two-part resin filler, and sand off all of the high spots and paint drips on the floor. I'm currently researching what kind of primer, if any, would be suitable for use under the two-part catalyzed flooring adhesive that I plan to use. After the Corkoleum is installed, a sealer will be applied to it.

I was originally thinking about using backer board and ceramic tile for the flooring, but because of the rather low ceiling (it's in an attic room), I wanted to preserve as much ceiling height as possible, hence the decision to use Corkoleum, which I haven't used before, but it's quite flexible, and it looks like it should be pretty easy to work with.

Everything has to be done in a certain order. After the flooring is done, I can move on to baseboard moulding, baseboard heater, vanity installation, fixture installations, etc.

 

[Misterg]

A bit of CNC wood-bothering
(Just playing with CAM).













The wood was plucked from the firewood pile - a log from an old plum tree that used to grow in our garden. I rather like it.

 

[nickk]

Handrail ends,plus some hooks,plus a railing point to match some existing that I’m altering.

actually made yesterday as today’s a snow day.

 

[nickk]

A bit of CNC wood-bothering
(Just playing with CAM).













The wood was plucked from the firewood pile - a log from an old plum tree that used to grow in our garden. I rather like it.

Very clever,how do you shape the sphere and hold it at the same time?

 

[Misterg]

how do you shape the sphere and hold it at the same time?

Thanks

It's machined one face at a time. The first 5 faces are machined without any support as the ball is still attached to the stock (2nd photo above).



For the last face, I machined a couple of MDF 'soft jaws' (sort of) that clamped the ball and the outer in place while it was being machined.



The finish from the cutter was really good - 4mm dia, 2FL ball end mill with ~0.3mm step-over in a spiral pattern. I cut at 800mm/min, but I'm sure it could have gone faster. This wood cut really nicely. There were some witness marks where the tool paths from the different faces overlapped, but these disappeared with a light sanding before I waxed it.

 

[striker]

Thanks

It's machined one face at a time. The first 5 faces are machined without any support as the ball is still attached to the stock (2nd photo above).



For the last face, I machined a couple of MDF 'soft jaws' (sort of) that clamped the ball and the outer in place while it was being machined.



The finish from the cutter was really good - 4mm dia, 2FL ball end mill with ~0.3mm step-over in a spiral pattern. I cut at 800mm/min, but I'm sure it could have gone faster. This wood cut really nicely. There were some witness marks where the tool paths from the different faces overlapped, but these disappeared with a light sanding before I waxed it.

Clever, that is.