@dan.taylor.1
Are you going to put a lip round the shelf to stop bits dropping off?
Are you going to put a lip round the shelf to stop bits dropping off?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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dan.taylor.1
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Wasn't planning on it. Haven't even dropped anything off the headstock yet with the lathe running so should be OK. I can get behind the lathe if I do drop anything.
Dr.Al
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This is most definitely not finished, but a major landmark was achieved today in a project I've been working on since late January:
Rear view:
It's going to be a tool chest to take on (self-catering cottage type) holiday with me, with the intention that it can also be used as a workbench (hence the thick construction, the stainless steel planing stops on the top and the slats on the back for stuff to be clamped to). When it's finished, there will hopefully be six drawers for tools (5 on the left, one on the right at the top) and an area in the bottom-right for a couple of small planes. All being well, it'll hold everything (give or take some bulky but robust stuff like clamps and glue bottles) for making small boxes and that sort of thing.
As a bit of explanation, my other half has M.E. and often needs some resting time during our holidays and I'd go stir crazy just sitting and reading, so it's nice to have some hobby stuff with me to pass the time while she's resting. Taking a metalworking lathe on holiday isn't really practical, but a bit of hand-tool wood bothering is.
The chest base has been by far the most significant (mostly) hand tool woodworking project I've ever done (and probably the most ambitious project of any kind I've ever done). The only power tool usage on the project so far has been using a bandsaw for one specific type of cut (resawing thick boards into thinner ones). Everything else has been hand tools only.
To give you an idea of why I think this is the most ambitious project I've done, this was:
I've never made wooden drawers before (unless you count pocket-hole jointed plywood carcases with ball-bearing drawer runners), so there are more firsts to come...
Rear view:
It's going to be a tool chest to take on (self-catering cottage type) holiday with me, with the intention that it can also be used as a workbench (hence the thick construction, the stainless steel planing stops on the top and the slats on the back for stuff to be clamped to). When it's finished, there will hopefully be six drawers for tools (5 on the left, one on the right at the top) and an area in the bottom-right for a couple of small planes. All being well, it'll hold everything (give or take some bulky but robust stuff like clamps and glue bottles) for making small boxes and that sort of thing.
As a bit of explanation, my other half has M.E. and often needs some resting time during our holidays and I'd go stir crazy just sitting and reading, so it's nice to have some hobby stuff with me to pass the time while she's resting. Taking a metalworking lathe on holiday isn't really practical, but a bit of hand-tool wood bothering is.
The chest base has been by far the most significant (mostly) hand tool woodworking project I've ever done (and probably the most ambitious project of any kind I've ever done). The only power tool usage on the project so far has been using a bandsaw for one specific type of cut (resawing thick boards into thinner ones). Everything else has been hand tools only.
To give you an idea of why I think this is the most ambitious project I've done, this was:
- The first project in which I've made panels from rough-sawn wood entirely by hand.
- The first project where I've cut dovetails without any sort of saw guide.
- The first project in which I've cut housing joints (for the middle upright support and drawer runners).
- The first project in which I've cut wedged through mortice and tenon joints (or any entirely hand-cut mortice and tenon joints for that matter).
- The first project in which I've cut half-lap joints (for the brace on the back that is intended to prevent racking while planing on the top surface).
- The first project in which I've used protein-based glue (fish glue in this case).
- The first project where I've had to come up with my own way of dealing with wood movement. On previous projects I've just used well-known techniques (buttons for table tops, grooves for box bases), whereas making what is essentially a five sided box where all sides needed to be rigid took a bit more thought.
I've never made wooden drawers before (unless you count pocket-hole jointed plywood carcases with ball-bearing drawer runners), so there are more firsts to come...
MattF
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It's worth doing though. Sod's law says the first time something rolls off, it'll hit a rotating chuck.
Made mine from stainless, didn't knurl them as they hit the wall when swinging around.
MattF
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Merely knurled them so they look less plain. I'm hoping the weight of the brass will stop them bouncing around too much.
Erie Fred
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That will make a wonderfull wind chime.....
Moral of the story. Never argue with a Fife fisherman. They have a boat and some very heavy weights.
Hood
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Nae fly Fifers here
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Blue Chips
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Good idea. I'm planning to put together a gooseneck lamp with a switchable magnetic base to work either on my lathe or my mill.
indy4x
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My wife has an 05 plate Renault Master that a precious owner had converted into a camper
I'm really really not a fan, I fact I hate it with a passion but as she loves it and makes her happy, I do unfortunately have to work on it
Been looking for ages for a Rhino rack for it but they aren't available new and SH almost non existent for the LWB Master
In my infinite wisdom, I decided to buy a SH one for Transit and modify to fit the Master including cut outs for the 2 skylights
Had it blasted which uncovered a little more rot than expected
Part 1, modifying the rear section so I can use the factory mounts for a roof rack
The bits I've added were made from what I've cut out of the middle and front sections to clear the skylights, it's going to be a proper Frankenstein once I've finished
I'm really really not a fan, I fact I hate it with a passion but as she loves it and makes her happy, I do unfortunately have to work on it
Been looking for ages for a Rhino rack for it but they aren't available new and SH almost non existent for the LWB Master
In my infinite wisdom, I decided to buy a SH one for Transit and modify to fit the Master including cut outs for the 2 skylights
Had it blasted which uncovered a little more rot than expected
Part 1, modifying the rear section so I can use the factory mounts for a roof rack
The bits I've added were made from what I've cut out of the middle and front sections to clear the skylights, it's going to be a proper Frankenstein once I've finished
dan.taylor.1
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It swings totally out of the way, it's ex nhs I believe. I bought one of these recently for £23 to put on the drill press, they do them with mag bases. Might not be worth making one for that price tbh...
Flexible LED Work Light CNC Lathe Machine Working Lamp +Fixed Base Waterproof 6W | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Flexible LED Work Light CNC Lathe Machine Working Lamp +Fixed Base Waterproof 6W at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Dr.Al
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These are a bit more spendy, but they're very good indeed. Magnetic base and clamp base; powered off AAA batteries or USB or mains; adjustable light focus for narrow beam or broad spread:It swings totally out of the way, it's ex nhs I believe. I bought one of these recently for £23 to put on the drill press, they do them with mag bases. Might not be worth making one for that price tbh...
Flexible LED Work Light CNC Lathe Machine Working Lamp +Fixed Base Waterproof 6W | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Flexible LED Work Light CNC Lathe Machine Working Lamp +Fixed Base Waterproof 6W at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.www.ebay.co.uk
Axminster Workshop 5W LED Magnetic Work Light
This powerful work light has 5W LED providing a strong, bright light. Power comes from either 2 x AAA batteries (not included) or by plugging directly into a mains or USB socket. The base features a strong magnet for quick location on any ferrous...
Blue Chips
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As you said, it might not be worth the bother/expense to make one. I was looking at some lights with switchable magnetic bases on Amazon and eBay the other day, and I might go that route. However, I do have a couple of spare light sockets with aluminum shades that would allow the use of standard US Edison-base (screw-in) LED bulbs, the advantage being a larger/softer light source for more diffuse shadows. 'Toughened' plastic- or rubber-coated bulbs are available. I have a rubber (silicone?) coated LED bulb in my blasting cabinet that has stood up to a lot of abuse.
Mick Annick
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Guess what, another handrail…
