- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,304
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
A box for the laser sitting on, it has a centre bed that I can raise or lower by 5mm increments by re-positioning the rods in different holes and yes they need cut to length 
.
If the concept works I may modify in the future with 4 cheap leadscrews and a handwheel connected via belts so that turning one wheel will lower all corners evenly. Whether that happens will depend on how often I need to raise/lower the bed and whether the rods setup is a pain to adjust.
Also made a sturdier gantry for the camera.
. If the concept works I may modify in the future with 4 cheap leadscrews and a handwheel connected via belts so that turning one wheel will lower all corners evenly. Whether that happens will depend on how often I need to raise/lower the bed and whether the rods setup is a pain to adjust.
Also made a sturdier gantry for the camera.
Dr.Al
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- Gloucestershire, UK
My old (home-made) tail-stock DRO was getting more and more temperamental:
It was made from a cheap digital caliper and the body was held in place with two 20 mm diameter neodymium magnets. It worked really well for several years, but the magnets seem to be slipping every now and again now and hence I'd lost a bit of faith in it. The display was also glitching every now and again (even with a fresh battery), so I had the impression that the calipers were on the way out.
I found a second-hand digital caliper (with a nice big clear display) for not a lot of money so I bought it and promptly attacked it with the angry grinder to remove the jaws and the tail end of the scale:
I also hacked out the corner of a bit of aluminium and magicked it into a little bracket:
I then winced a bit as I drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the top of the tailstock. With the bracket held in place with a countersunk screw and the calipers held in place with an M2.5 screw (into the hole that used to have a knurled locking screw in it), there should be no chance of the caliper body moving.
The new one is metric only, which also has the big advantage in my opinion that there should be no chance of it accidentally being switched into antediluvian units. I've lost count of the number of times I pressed the "in/mm" button on the old calipers, but there wasn't a single time when I deliberately pressed the button to switch into inches. Every time I pressed it was because it had accidentally (presumably either the button getting knocked or a software glitch) switched into inches and I wanted to put it back into the proper mode. Like my posh Mitutoyo metric-only ones, this one shouldn't suffer from that problem.
I've also shortened the rear of the caliper scale, which means I don't have to take the calipers off to get to the oil hole:
It was made from a cheap digital caliper and the body was held in place with two 20 mm diameter neodymium magnets. It worked really well for several years, but the magnets seem to be slipping every now and again now and hence I'd lost a bit of faith in it. The display was also glitching every now and again (even with a fresh battery), so I had the impression that the calipers were on the way out.
I found a second-hand digital caliper (with a nice big clear display) for not a lot of money so I bought it and promptly attacked it with the angry grinder to remove the jaws and the tail end of the scale:
I also hacked out the corner of a bit of aluminium and magicked it into a little bracket:
I then winced a bit as I drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the top of the tailstock. With the bracket held in place with a countersunk screw and the calipers held in place with an M2.5 screw (into the hole that used to have a knurled locking screw in it), there should be no chance of the caliper body moving.
The new one is metric only, which also has the big advantage in my opinion that there should be no chance of it accidentally being switched into antediluvian units. I've lost count of the number of times I pressed the "in/mm" button on the old calipers, but there wasn't a single time when I deliberately pressed the button to switch into inches. Every time I pressed it was because it had accidentally (presumably either the button getting knocked or a software glitch) switched into inches and I wanted to put it back into the proper mode. Like my posh Mitutoyo metric-only ones, this one shouldn't suffer from that problem.
I've also shortened the rear of the caliper scale, which means I don't have to take the calipers off to get to the oil hole:
Wildefalcon
Member
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- Gloucestershire, England
Is that a DIY process? I know nothing about it!
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Yes.
Easier to apply than paint, because it's thinner, but the prep is pretty onerous and it's bloody expensive, although a little goes a long way.
It's really good for fastenings and non precision machined parts as it's so thin
You do need the same PPE and an oven to cure some of the flavours.
Cerakote can explain the process far better than I can, but I will do thread on my DIY set up.
https://www.cerakote.com/resources/knowledge-base/106/h-series-application-guide
Easier to apply than paint, because it's thinner, but the prep is pretty onerous and it's bloody expensive, although a little goes a long way.
It's really good for fastenings and non precision machined parts as it's so thin
You do need the same PPE and an oven to cure some of the flavours.
Cerakote can explain the process far better than I can, but I will do thread on my DIY set up.
https://www.cerakote.com/resources/knowledge-base/106/h-series-application-guide
Brad93
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- Essex, United Kingdom
Great company essential supplies
indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
@Wildefalcon have a look at some of @. posts, he's done some really good work that's polished off with cerakote
northwest
Searching for the Holy Grail.........
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- Manchester UK
I would be interested to know what blast media you used?
Dcal
Member
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
They recommend aluminium oxide and that you only use it once, to stop contamination of the parts.
I use jblast supafine because it's what I have and it's cheap.
However, I do sieve a new bag to get the clean smaller particles size they recommend.
The bigger stuff (the biggest portion) left over is great for cutting heavy rust in the cabinet and is far less dusty but beaks down to a smaller size after first use anyway.
The sieve came from china via eBay.
The one I bought was the same as in the link below, but cheaper and with free postage, that listing is gone now.
New 10-200 Mesh 2-0.075mm Aperture Stainless Steel 20cm Lab Standard Test Sieve | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New 10-200 Mesh 2-0.075mm Aperture Stainless Steel 20cm Lab Standard Test Sieve at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.
www.ebay.co.uk
Dcal
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
I've started using it, on your recommendation
Early days yet, but I like it a lot.
I used it on the steel on the steel hubs, as well as the alloy carriers.
I don't know if it will hold up on steel, but the steel parts come uncoated from the factory so it won't hurt.
As you say, great on something like this because it's so thin.
Johnnybravo
Member
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- 3,552
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- Northiam
Remachined a set of magnesium wheels to fit new lug nut inserts.Gained a Nice box of sparkly swarf to chuck in the next bonfire
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- 13,401
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- England
Finished off this one this morning.
I can't take credit for the polishing, passed that off onto our polisher while I helped him.out with some less technical polishing on another job.
Got to be a bit mindful how you build little ones like that, easy to screw yourself over and make things really awkward.
I can't take credit for the polishing, passed that off onto our polisher while I helped him.out with some less technical polishing on another job.
Got to be a bit mindful how you build little ones like that, easy to screw yourself over and make things really awkward.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- Going Away.
What is it?
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
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- Gloucestershire, UK
It ain't much:
Just a bit of practice with silicon bronze TIG wire (968 I think the packet said). I've had a few sporadic practice sessions over the last few years, but that's the first time the process has clicked with me and it's felt like I'm brazing rather than either welding (melting the steel at the same time) or blobbing (just melting the brazing wire in blobs on top of the steel).
Just a bit of practice with silicon bronze TIG wire (968 I think the packet said). I've had a few sporadic practice sessions over the last few years, but that's the first time the process has clicked with me and it's felt like I'm brazing rather than either welding (melting the steel at the same time) or blobbing (just melting the brazing wire in blobs on top of the steel).
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- 13,401
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- England
It's a small buffer tank, that will be part of a small cream pasteuriser
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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- 5,597
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- UK
80 litres of Elland White Rat Clone in the fermenter. Columbus bittering hops, Amarillo and Cascade in the steep and hop rocket, malt is mainly Marris Otter Pale with a touch of extra pale crystal.
Looks like it's mashed out at around 1.046 OG, possibly a bit more, probably heading for around 4.7%
Looks like it's mashed out at around 1.046 OG, possibly a bit more, probably heading for around 4.7%
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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- 5,731
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- Ireland
Made a containment box for a Loop on the Ground...
A bit pyssed off the SS wingnuts I ordered just disappeared somewhere into postal oblivion, but just pressed ahead.
A bit pyssed off the SS wingnuts I ordered just disappeared somewhere into postal oblivion, but just pressed ahead.
Duisky
Member
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- 42
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- Scotland
I actually completed this a couple of weeks ago but I’ve just got around to finding some time to post it.
You’ll all be fed up seeing the Landrover but hopefully this will be the last piece (although I did make towable lawnmower for it in between..)! This was initially going to be an winter project but who wants a boat then?
The ‘boat’ is about 5ft long, and has been made out of marine ply clothed in epoxy and mat. I had no plan as such, just working it out as I went along. I’ve attempted to make it functional (obviously very limited/controlled, tethered to a rope and in used in ideal conditions) and it will bear an adults weight, albeit in the garden pond not much bigger than it. There is inbuilt buoyancy fore and aft using closed cell foam, and to satisfy myself I’ve deliberately scuttled the boat in the pond to ensure that it will never sink.
It is powered by the cheapest little electric trolling motor I could find, which should punt it around ok in calm conditions; it does look a bit cumbersome and clunky, in many respects I just wish I had made it an inboard and the boat would look much cleaner. I may yet cut it down the motor shaft to help its proportions.
My nephews have had a very quick (10 mins?) shot on it in a sheltered harbour, tied to a rope, wearing a buoyancy aid, and me in the water with them, and although it did ‘sail’, it’s shallow draft resulted in it skittering around more than I’d have liked; I may make up a detachable keel fin at some point to help it tract better. That said, it’s unlikely to hit the water in earnest again; I just wanted to see if I could do it! It’s more an ornament than anything. There’s an idea rattling around in my head to make up a rocking assembly and mount it like the coin operated rides you find outside shops..
Most importantly, In terms of welding, the bunked trailer was fabricated from mild steel, and coated in cold galv. I’m not too keen on the mudguards, so, I think I’ll remake them. I think I’ve got my sizes amiss somewhere.
The windscreen was cut from a single piece of stainless, folded, shaped, and corners mig welded to form the frame. It was then polished up and mounted.
You’ll all be fed up seeing the Landrover but hopefully this will be the last piece (although I did make towable lawnmower for it in between..)! This was initially going to be an winter project but who wants a boat then?
The ‘boat’ is about 5ft long, and has been made out of marine ply clothed in epoxy and mat. I had no plan as such, just working it out as I went along. I’ve attempted to make it functional (obviously very limited/controlled, tethered to a rope and in used in ideal conditions) and it will bear an adults weight, albeit in the garden pond not much bigger than it. There is inbuilt buoyancy fore and aft using closed cell foam, and to satisfy myself I’ve deliberately scuttled the boat in the pond to ensure that it will never sink.
It is powered by the cheapest little electric trolling motor I could find, which should punt it around ok in calm conditions; it does look a bit cumbersome and clunky, in many respects I just wish I had made it an inboard and the boat would look much cleaner. I may yet cut it down the motor shaft to help its proportions.
My nephews have had a very quick (10 mins?) shot on it in a sheltered harbour, tied to a rope, wearing a buoyancy aid, and me in the water with them, and although it did ‘sail’, it’s shallow draft resulted in it skittering around more than I’d have liked; I may make up a detachable keel fin at some point to help it tract better. That said, it’s unlikely to hit the water in earnest again; I just wanted to see if I could do it! It’s more an ornament than anything. There’s an idea rattling around in my head to make up a rocking assembly and mount it like the coin operated rides you find outside shops..
Most importantly, In terms of welding, the bunked trailer was fabricated from mild steel, and coated in cold galv. I’m not too keen on the mudguards, so, I think I’ll remake them. I think I’ve got my sizes amiss somewhere.
The windscreen was cut from a single piece of stainless, folded, shaped, and corners mig welded to form the frame. It was then polished up and mounted.
