Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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They look like cap heads to me.The screws are countersunk. Just offset the hole slightly and the countersink does the job. The same as insert tooling.
They look like cap heads to me.The screws are countersunk. Just offset the hole slightly and the countersink does the job. The same as insert tooling.
Aye ok wor kidEasy to say now now the answer has been revealed (), but something like that was my first thought, tightening the screws drives the three dogs out to grip a bore. I didn't comment earlier because I couldn't see any sort of taper or wedge to actually push them out, so I figured it was something else.
So they are.They look like cap heads to me.
Welds look good, what machine do you have?Making a bench on my new bench.
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Was pretty gormless going about it. I welded three legs on like this, sticking up in the air, which was a chew.
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After welding the third leg on, I realised it was much easier to fit them like this, on their side with all the support from the table. In my defence, I am not used to the luxury of a worktable.
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All four legs in contact with the floor at the same time. No evident rocking, either. Must be doing something right.
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The picture below demonstrates that I can still use the bandsaw with long lengths of tube. They fit under the table drawers with decent clearance. This is handy and something I hadn't considered when building the table
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A fence post offcut makes a good spacer and support.
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I didn't need to weld every join but I needed the practice, so I did anyway. My fillets are much tidier than my butt welds. Every joint was welded in the flat position. I had a good work out moving the frame to achieve this. It was lifted on and off the table a few times. A four-metre torch helped to get round it too.
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Still need to add tabs to secure the top. Nuts and plates need welding on for adjustable feet. The bench will get a set of drawers too. No handles this time. Just a slightly deeper plain front so there's a lip to pull on from underneath. The drawer fronts will be flush with the frame this time as well.
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Always good when you realise that the lathe you bought can actually be useful16mm aluminium blanking plug made on a small hobby lathe. Nothing complicated going on here but I was pleased as it's the first thing I've really made on it
How much adjustment do you have? 5mm on dia?Finished my 2” tube centre today. This job always seems to come up when the cnc lathe has the collet chuck on it. I don’t have a steady for the Colchester, so this gizmo solves the problem. Works as expected
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I suppose it would be fairly easy just to make larger inserts, that is if I am seeing the setup correctly.About 4mm I guess, would need bigger diameter grubscrews to get more
Yes. I made it specifically for 2” sched 40 tube. The body just goes in so it’s pretty central to start. Flat machine on the outside is to allow the welded seam to passI suppose it would be fairly easy just to make larger inserts, that is if I am seeing the setup correctly.
I kinda fancied a paton or an Oxford, got an old migatronic 180 had from new still welds OK just fancied a few extra amps.Cheers Norm. The welds for the top rectangle were done with a Paton 250 standard mig. It was giving me grief so the legs and associated bits were completed with my Portamig 235.
The spool tensioner on the Paton keeps tightening up until the spool binds. I've ordered a couple of thrust washers to see if I can stop it happening. It produces far too much spatter as well. The Paton has lots of lovely features but it's peeing me off with how it actually welds. No problems with the Portamig.
What is it about it that you don't like?Just my personal experience only, but I wouldn't buy the Paton again.