- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Blobber
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Thats posh, whats the stainless guttering going on?
DennisCA
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Not completed, still lacking two panel meters (amps & voltage) but functional. I turned a new dial from wood, turned out looking like a hat... What is it? A 4A variac for 0 - 230V based on an old transformer core from the DDR.
What's it for? For running my US sourced christmas lighting:
What's it for? For running my US sourced christmas lighting:
Munkul
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A canning line in Mexico i think. Not really sure
Johnnybravo
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Made the motor mount for the cylindrical grinder. No one going to be any the wiser that it’s three pieces welded together 
Blue Chips
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Just made a quick and simple drill extension, consisting of a 36"x1/2" ID chrome-moly steel tube with a 5"x1/2-20 bolt (with the head cut off) pressed in one end, a 5"x1/2" rod pressed in the other end, and a removeable keyless chuck screwed onto the end.
I knurled the stud and rod for an extra-tight fit before pressing them into the tube with permanent Loctite 271. No welding today. Should be a handy tool for dealing with retrofit home wiring, plumbing, etc. Having an easily removeable chuck will allow me to insert the extension in some tight places without the chuck, and then install the chuck in place. I've run into some situations like that inside of wall cavities. Making sure the lock nut is always tight is important in case I need to reverse the drill without having the chuck come off, although I suppose I can drill a hole in the end of the bolt and tap it for a security screw that goes inside the chuck, but I probably won't, since that would make it more difficult to assemble through a hole into a wall cavity.
I knurled the stud and rod for an extra-tight fit before pressing them into the tube with permanent Loctite 271. No welding today. Should be a handy tool for dealing with retrofit home wiring, plumbing, etc. Having an easily removeable chuck will allow me to insert the extension in some tight places without the chuck, and then install the chuck in place. I've run into some situations like that inside of wall cavities. Making sure the lock nut is always tight is important in case I need to reverse the drill without having the chuck come off, although I suppose I can drill a hole in the end of the bolt and tap it for a security screw that goes inside the chuck, but I probably won't, since that would make it more difficult to assemble through a hole into a wall cavity.
Brad93
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May have a job for you
Moose McAlpine
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Nothing very interesting, a modified E24 Torx socket for Audi V6 cam phaser bolts.
Munkul
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And here i was thinking this would be a great job for you
Back on legs tonight. Got a relatively small batch to do before Christmas and then hopefully relax for a month. That, or 600 brackets come in
badabec
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Brad93
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Haha i'm not setup for stainless really, to do any quantity you'd have to buy an electro passivating machine and i just don't do that much.And here i was thinking this would be a great job for you
Back on legs tonight. Got a relatively small batch to do before Christmas and then hopefully relax for a month. That, or 600 brackets come in
I don't enjoy dealing with the distortion anyhow, although it is fun to weld and aim to get better with each one.
I have a customer that wants 300m of 6-8" half round stainless gutter
Johnnybravo
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You can make an electropassivating set up for sub£100
Brad93
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Yep, have played in the past with phosphoric acid and a battery charger.
Rarely are the results as good or as quick as the proper machines.
Munkul
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Passivating in quantity is a bit of a pain and yes the cost of the machine sucks. Its way faster using a "real" machine with some decent amperage behind it I agree. Then its all to neutralise afterwards, or you get left with acid salts that eventually corrode. Acid is around £100/gallon, so is most neutraliser, although I'm using one that dilutes 1:10 which softens the cost a bit. I have to price passivating pretty high, because neither me or my brother fancy doing it for labourer wages.
300m of gutters, wow. Could do them in 2m lengths that would make it a bit more palatable. Would have to be 1.6mm minimum in my opinion, or would have to have a proper purge block on the bottom side to prevent burn through.
Bump bending a full half round would be ok with the right tooling, but not something I have.
Johnnybravo
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Then you are doing it wrong.
Brad93
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Okay Johnny, well why don't you enlighten us all.
Johnnybravo
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That comes across as more than a tad sarcastic. Sure someone as clever as you can figure it out, after all, it’s not rocket science
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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You're right, it's not. It's really simple - the more power, sophistication you have, the faster and better it goes.That comes across as more than a tad sarcastic. Sure someone as clever as you can figure it out, after all, it’s not rocket science
The "proper" units whack a load more amps through than a DIY setup. Our Bymat uses 24v AC and puts out around 13 amps, on its fastest cleaning mode. It's a fair bit better than a cheap DC machine, and a lot better than the DIY attempts I've tried.
It also has a 24VDC mode and a lower voltage AC mode. Neither work as fast as the 24VAC mode.
Cougartron machines use lower VAC but higher current to achieve the same thing.
The newer ones have high frequency pulses which apparently helps again with speed.
There's a reason the good ones cost £2k+.
