Wildefalcon
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- Gloucestershire, England
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Arc Tourist
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I need to make something like that.
JOEPRO
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Wildefalcon
Member
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- 2,388
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- Gloucestershire, England
I was using a drawer, but I'm tidying so need the drawer. As the cabs don't move I removed one of the handles to bunch then up, so had the spare handle. Two birds, got a hammer rack and won't lose the handle!
Wildefalcon
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- 2,388
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- Gloucestershire, England
Steam box for an oak door on the wagon project.
henry Kadzielski
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- Australia Wollongong
Have been waiting to finish this but will show some pics.
Hydraulic tank for the boat with the gantry, posted prevoiusly. The tank is 200l capacity at 80% of internal volume to allow for expansion. The tank is made of two halves as the engine room access hatch is too small to fit the tank in one piece. Left side is the return side, with dual return filters, filler and the return spear which drops the return oil to the bottom of the tank to help stop turbulence and airation of the oil.
The right hand side is the supply side, with sight glass. It has a 20mm doubler welded to the bottom through which a 3" BSP S/S pipe passes through.
To join the tanks I will be using Loctite 518 and 99 m6 bolts.
The lids require 56 m6 bolts and 518 to attach.
The 3" S/S BSP pipe passes through the bottom of the tank and will be sealed with Areldite. The suction strainer will be screwed onto the 3" BSP parallel thread and the 3" S/S ball valve will be screwed to the bottom thread witch is 3"BSP taper. Still have to make a stand and attachment points in the engine room followed by the plumbing and pump mounting. This is when the fun starts. For those that are interested the alloy is 6mm 5083
Hydraulic tank for the boat with the gantry, posted prevoiusly. The tank is 200l capacity at 80% of internal volume to allow for expansion. The tank is made of two halves as the engine room access hatch is too small to fit the tank in one piece. Left side is the return side, with dual return filters, filler and the return spear which drops the return oil to the bottom of the tank to help stop turbulence and airation of the oil.
The right hand side is the supply side, with sight glass. It has a 20mm doubler welded to the bottom through which a 3" BSP S/S pipe passes through.
To join the tanks I will be using Loctite 518 and 99 m6 bolts.
The lids require 56 m6 bolts and 518 to attach.
The 3" S/S BSP pipe passes through the bottom of the tank and will be sealed with Areldite. The suction strainer will be screwed onto the 3" BSP parallel thread and the 3" S/S ball valve will be screwed to the bottom thread witch is 3"BSP taper. Still have to make a stand and attachment points in the engine room followed by the plumbing and pump mounting. This is when the fun starts. For those that are interested the alloy is 6mm 5083
selectedgrub
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- 3,346
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Not today, but this
to this
to this
Hmmm, stainless next to alli - what about galvanic corrosion?
needs a mug for scaleNot today, but this
to this
Knocked up a few pairs for my 6 & 4" a while back - thought about some mild checkering for a bit of bite but not sure how to go about it - or in fact if it's a good idea!
Not as tarty as this but get the idea.
Could be one for the laser enabled crew?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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I think the first thing you grip in those jaws and the pattern will be destroyed.
You could use a fly cutter on a mill with fast auto feed so it's intermittently cutting and repeat it the cut at 45°?
MattF
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Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Copper is a bad material to laser... It reflects a lot of the laser energy which can sometimes damage the laser itself.
JMS1972
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I think some of the posh CO2 laser mirrors are polished copper?
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
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Yeah i believe so. So trying to cut or engrave it reflects it back into the lens and/or source. Bigger fibre lasers are supposed to be ok at limited power but i was told by an IPG man "don't cut it on your laser if you have another option"
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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My little F1 will mark copper but at 2w it's unlikely to do damage. I am looking at getting the F1 ultra which is 20w fibre and they say it will cut thin copper but that's not why I want it!
