Stuff you have made today

[sako243]

Yeah i believe so. So trying to cut or engrave it reflects it back into the lens and/or source. Bigger fibre lasers are supposed to be ok at limited power but i was told by an IPG man "don't cut it on your laser if you have another option"

Would painting it help? An alternative might be to cover it in the photo resist used for PCB manufacture, that'll be a different finish to help prevent reflection and can be stripped away relatively easily. For example we use negative photo resists which can be stripped away with sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner).

 

[Brad93]

Would painting it help? An alternative might be to cover it in the photo resist used for PCB manufacture, that'll be a different finish to help prevent reflection and can be stripped away relatively easily. For example we use negative photo resists which can be stripped away with sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner).

I think any paint would instantly burn away.

You'd probably find a matt finish or brushed finish would give better results. Or a laser film.

 

[Maker]

Would painting it help? An alternative might be to cover it in the photo resist used for PCB manufacture, that'll be a different finish to help prevent reflection and can be stripped away relatively easily. For example we use negative photo resists which can be stripped away with sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner).

I think it's the puddle of molten metal that's reflective. I was told that's why the ally is harder to laser than steel, because the puddle is more reflective.

 

[Munkul]

I think it's the puddle of molten metal that's reflective. I was told that's why the ally is harder to laser than steel, because the puddle is more reflective.

Yeah this is my understanding also. I think a coating might help a little tiny bit, but not once it's down inside the cut, and may even have a detrimental effect like millscale on steel does - absorbing energy into itself rather than heating the proper metal.

 

[Hitch]

Fancied trying a Milwaukee sign

 

[selectedgrub]

needs a mug for scale

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Turned some skip items into usable items.

To these.


Most had the screws, fixings and some had damaged.

 

[Hitch]

Finished off installing a little platform extension today. Made to match existing near as practical.
New section of lowered rolled handrail added lower to allow ingredients to be tipped in easier and access for blades to be changed etc.

 

[Onoff]

Making not made. A lock box to go on an old ledged and braced door. Luckily I've loads of this mahogany cill for when I mess it up! A very lightweight, 3D printed trial lets me know that it'll fit nicely.

https://flic.kr/p/2q81CBq

https://flic.kr/p/2q7VZG2

https://flic.kr/p/2q81DgM

Now just to recreate in timber. It will likely involve a jig and router. The lock box is nominally 17mm wide. I do have a 17mm spade bit. That would mean chiselling. All I have is a neglected box of chisels bought years ago from Makro. Rusty and blunt and I'm no good at sharpening them.

 

[Anguz]

Print yourself a sharpening jig

 

[Maker]

Why bother with the wood, just fit the 3d print and call it a day.

 

[Onoff]

Why bother with the wood, just fit the 3d print and call it a day.

If a serious question then appearance and I'm guessing strength. The old, black painted door (I think oak now from a little test drill) will be sanded where the lock block is going then screwed and foaming PU glued:

https://flic.kr/p/2q7aTrG

 

[Kram]

I dropped my tree wedge in the stream last week and forgot to pick it up, so £2.40 of amazon door stops ordered and I have modified to make some more. I chopped the ends off and they might make good mini wedges too.

 

[gaz1]

Making not made. A lock box to go on an old ledged and braced door. Luckily I've loads of this mahogany cill for when I mess it up! A very lightweight, 3D printed trial lets me know that it'll fit nicely.

https://flic.kr/p/2q81CBq

https://flic.kr/p/2q7VZG2

https://flic.kr/p/2q81DgM

Now just to recreate in timber. It will likely involve a jig and router. The lock box is nominally 17mm wide. I do have a 17mm spade bit. That would mean chiselling. All I have is a neglected box of chisels bought years ago from Makro. Rusty and blunt and I'm no good at sharpening them.

the way yours is looking your either going to need a longer stem on your key or you will be hole drilling just to get your key deeper within the door just to get to the lock

you apear to be at 1 1/2 inches just to get to the entrance of the lock and yet you still need to go deeper

with a metal framed lock your only needing to go to a depth of 1" + 5mm and your at the entrance of the lock

If a serious question then appearance and I'm guessing strength. The old, black painted door (I think oak now from a little test drill) will be sanded where the lock block is going then screwed and foaming PU glued:

https://flic.kr/p/2q7aTrG

i wouldnt do what your going to do i would make it out of steel and then i can use the steel to also strengthen the door as well

even if you was to use angle iron all the way down the door it would strengthen the whole door up to fit 2 sets of looks into it and the frame alone around the locks will further strengthen your door

if you look at security gates with locks within them there low profiled this is the method i used
to secure the lock and also strengthen around the lock within a solid structure

 

[8ob]

I dropped my tree wedge in the stream last week and forgot to pick it up, so £2.40 of amazon door stops ordered and I have modified to make some more. I chopped the ends off and they might make good mini wedges too.

For river/stream work its best to tether wedges,bolt a chain and spike to them, way too expensive to lose.

 

[Kram]

Hydraulic chainsaw? Interesting! For underwater use?

way too expensive to lose.

The one I lost was one of these. I had to wedge a mini carabiner instead which was a pain.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003KN9XEI

 

[Beanwood]

For river/stream work its best to tether wedges,bolt a chain and spike to them, way too expensive to lose.

View attachment 459683

Is that a hydraulic chainsaw??

 

[lchris21]

560 stainless screws later..... My wall top cedar fence is complete.

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

Cooling system, assembled alone. 2 arms, 2 legs.

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View this content on Instagram

 

[8ob]

Is that a hydraulic chainsaw??

Yes, pretty handy bit of kit for trees under water, no oil slick floating about, self lubes.

Bob