Stuff you have made today

[Hood]

Plasma cut some 8mm steel.

Edge quality from the Jasic still impresses me

Got it tacked up.

Fully welded and rollers made and fitted ready for a test.

Not collapsed so far with 5mm stainless and there are no marks or scrapes at all, seems to be a success, now to design and adjustable one

 

[RWD3M]

Nice job there!

 

[Memmeddu]

The tallest wind turbine in the world is 250m including the blades...

I'm not a turbine expert that's what they said about them

 

[Chillitt]

I'm not a turbine expert that's what they said about them

I suspect they arent experts either... Anyway politics and all that.

 

[Memmeddu]

I suspect they arent experts either... Anyway politics and all that.

I wouldn't start talking about the politics aspect of this situation, because is pretty embarrassing.
The only thing worth to say is that they took a decision without asking to us which alongside few other Italian regions we have our own government, constitution and choice power.

 

[JMS1972]

Pipe adapter so I could use my new MIG welder today.

In use

This was a bit of scrap brass with a failed gear cutter experiment on the outside but makes it grippy

First attempt with the Kemppi produced reasonable results. Tack at each end is a bit big need to be quicker releasing the button.

 

[Gragson]

There was a recent post on vise copper soft jaws, can't find it, but commented on making them a bit more grippy / patterned than flat bar.
Think it was @Hood (prince of boats) that rightly said laser or other etching would not "cut it" so to speak.

Anyway, I'm sure there are a hundred better ways to do this but had a go using a farriers rasp, no idea why or when I got it but they are cheap with a fairly deep wide blade.



Did a little test bit after some heat and hammer, then setup rasp on homemade railtrack anvil as I could clamp the rasp on that easier than my little Rigid one. Then heat and some judicious whacking then quench.



Pretty happy with depth of pattern, cleaned them up.



Grippy and bling

 

[henry Kadzielski]

I asked for something different to do, from several customers, all had said that they would give me something, but nay nothing. Out of the blue this turned up, a cutter drum from a Bauer machine.

This is not in pristine condition, needs some love, so I was asked would I be interested. Since I have been asking it would be ill of me not to have a go

These flip cutters have to be removed, the bores for the main pin which holds the flip cutter have to be line bores and bushes fitted along with hardened washers. The faces have also to be built up to close up the tolerances.

Finally we have the cutter teeth. Center of the pic, that is an insert which hold the tooth. They (42 of them )have to be removed, new ones fitted to hold the new cutter teeth, just to the right is the tooth holder. One thing to consider is that this whole thing has been in the wet ground for some time and the inserts are rusted in. Not knowing what it weighs I put my crane scales on the crane to measure it. Crane scales I have go the 1ton, this is over 1 ton. I have some hydraulics to do on another fishing boat so will get that done before I seriously start on this, however have already started on getting the line boring jig for the flip cutters constructed. This should help in speeding up the line boring for the flip cutters. This is quite a big project as the company that owns these has many out in the yard needing love and exchange them on a regular basis, so if all goes well may keep me entertained for some time. It may also be 'be careful of what you ask for, you may get it'.

 

[My Old Landy]

There was a recent post on vise copper soft jaws, can't find it, but commented on making them a bit more grippy / patterned than flat bar.
Think it was @Hood (prince of boats) that rightly said laser or other etching would not "cut it" so to speak.

Anyway, I'm sure there are a hundred better ways to do this but had a go using a farriers rasp, no idea why or when I got it but they are cheap with a fairly deep wide blade.

View attachment 461401

Did a little test bit after some heat and hammer, then setup rasp on homemade railtrack anvil as I could clamp the rasp on that easier than my little Rigid one. Then heat and some judicious whacking then quench.

View attachment 461407View attachment 461408View attachment 461409View attachment 461410View attachment 461411

Pretty happy with depth of pattern, cleaned them up.

View attachment 461412View attachment 461413View attachment 461414View attachment 461415

Grippy and bling

Lovely job! You got the rasps from me when I left Aylesbury

 

[Gragson]

You got the rasps from me when I left Aylesbury

You have a good memory I was really wracking my brains - worked a treat for this!

 

[Dr.Al]

This morning I made a rather diminutive little hammer:

My travel toolchest is rather full with not much space for extra stuff to be added. The only persuading stick I have in the kit is a soft-faced mallet. The mallet is really nice for hitting chisels with, but occasionally it can be useful to tweak a plane setting with a metal-headed hammer (and the mallet is a bit big to be much use regardless of the head material). I'll be taking a bag of clamps with me, so the easy option would have been to just bung a hammer in with the clamps, but I thought it would be fun to make a small adjustment hammer. It doesn't need to be very heavy duty as it'll only be used for tweaking plane blade positions.

It's made from stainless steel with some sort of brass on one end and some sort of plastic on the other. All the material came out of a skip so I can't be completely sure what any of it is. The head is 16 mm diameter; the handle is 10 mm diameter. Given its intended use, there was no real point adding different jaws (rather than just using a cylinder of steel), but I thought it would be fun to add a bit of bling!

The handle is offset from the centre of the head so that it sits on the centre of gravity (which is obviously offset as a result of the plastic being lighter than the brass).

The handle is screwed into the head such that it can be easily removed in order to store it in one of the free pockets in the tool chest:

Not visible in the photos is a small (4 mm AF) hexagonal hole that I rotary broached in the bottom of the handle. I added that just in case I over tighten it by hand and struggle to get it apart: an Allen key (which sits in one of the pockets you can see next to the hammer) will help me get it apart if needed.

 

[selectedgrub]

Beautiful

 

[oldbikedavey]

Today , I will be making shims , and a supplementary foam air filter sleeve to slip over a standard Amal pancake type.
It'll just give the gauze element a bit of an easier time of things...

 

[GRW]

This weekend - I have made myself very tired & aching, but rather pleased about it.
My nearly-finished Campervan transported me & my MTB & gear away for a weekends mountain biking for the first time in maybe 9-10 months (& accommodated me of course).
It was also a test to see how everything worked (& if it did work), and if the theory of use & ease of use aligned of the layout in reality.

Getting used to where things are, and the best places to stow cooking items etc will take a couple of uses to settle, but overall I'm very satisfied. The layout, garage space and fixed bed etc are all much easier and more convenient than my old van.

You can feel the weight it's hauling compared to the empty van I bought, but the weight & insulation means it rides nicely & quietly, & the van returned 32mpg on the very lumpy & twisty round trip from West Wales into Shropshire & back.... can't really expect better than that.

 

[indy4x]

@GRW Was that 32mpg from the computer? Pretty good

We arrived home last night after 9 days travelling the Highlands, 1800 miles in the Master and computer says 28.5mpg

200 miles was driving gently from Skye to Inverness to buy a new drive belt as the one on the van started to fall apart and then back to Skye

Whatever life was left in the shocks has now been extinguished and they desperately need replacing

 

[GRW]

@GRW Was that 32mpg from the computer? Pretty good

We arrived home last night after 9 days travelling the Highlands, 1800 miles in the Master and computer says 28.5mpg

200 miles was driving gently from Skye to Inverness to buy a new drive belt as the one on the van started to fall apart and then back to Skye

Whatever life was left in the shocks has now been extinguished and they desperately need replacing

Yes computer 32mpg - I've not verified it yet to be certain it's accurate, but hopefully it is.

Cutting down the huge roof rack to just 3 roof bars to carry the Awning has helped mpg I'm pretty sure. Given how big and winding the hills & roads are up through Builth Wells & through Knighton etc, with all the gearbox-stirring I thought that was pretty decent (though speeds were more often sub-60mph than over 60mph).

Driving it empty (but with full roof rack) down the M4 after purchase saw the computer giving 37mpg at a steady 60-65mph.

 

[DennisCA]

Finished the top of the new deck I built, still got the "skirts", rails and other small stuff to fix.

 

[magnet]

Spring wire hose clamp for the airfilter to carb on my newly acquired MZ motorbike

 

[Memmeddu]

Won a long battle.
Had a Ryobi brush cutter in repair for months due to my kidneys, hospital, getting after surgery, return to work, attempting to resurrect my YouTube channel because I've focused myself on my own health only.
Anyway back to the subject I've replaced sparkplug, ignition coil, carburettor, fuel lines .
Despite all that it wouldn't start.
So today I've emptied the tank put fresh gasoline, nothing to do...
Still wasn't going to start disassembled, perfect cylinder wall, no scores on the piston, good piston rings.
But seemed like it was having blow by, I've cleaned up everything, reassembled .
Still not running yet.
I've took the spark plug out, moved the piston to bottom dead center.
Used an heat gun blown hot air through the hole till it wasn't smoking anymore from the muffler.
It was clogged like nothing I've ever worked on.
Started first pull let run without cooling till no visible smoke was coming through the exhaust.
Stop
Put the conveyor on , started, tuned the carb without air filter .
Little bit lean TBH but the air filter will reduce the air coming in and increase little bit the fuel .
Anyway it's running now.
Can't wait to give it back to customer

 

[DAPPH]

Won a long battle.
Had a Ryobi brush cutter in repair for months due to my kidneys, hospital, getting after surgery, return to work, attempting to resurrect my YouTube channel because I've focused myself on my own health only.
Anyway back to the subject I've replaced sparkplug, ignition coil, carburettor, fuel lines .
Despite all that it wouldn't start.
So today I've emptied the tank put fresh gasoline, nothing to do...
Still wasn't going to start disassembled, perfect cylinder wall, no scores on the piston, good piston rings.
But seemed like it was having blow by, I've cleaned up everything, reassembled .
Still not running yet.
I've took the spark plug out, moved the piston to bottom dead center.
Used an heat gun blown hot air through the hole till it wasn't smoking anymore from the muffler.
It was clogged like nothing I've ever worked on.
Started first pull let run without cooling till no visible smoke was coming through the exhaust.
Stop
Put the conveyor on , started, tuned the carb without air filter .
Little bit lean TBH but the air filter will reduce the air coming in and increase little bit the fuel .
Anyway it's running now.
Can't wait to give it back to customer

Clogged exhaust silencers / mufflers is often missed by many so called experts . I often carefully took them off machines and then used the oxyacetylene torch to get them a dark cherry red so it not only burnt out oily deposits it also ignited most of the carbon clogging the drillings in the interlan hard to get at bits. Once nice & hot they self ignited for a few minutes in which I kept tapping them with a bit of old broom stick to knock the difficult bits off the metal and giving them a waft of the torch now and a gain .
I'd then drop the still very hot silencer in cold water to cool it and also give me something with which to swill out th internals at both ends . Then reheat to evaporate any water , when cooled 7 totally dry a quick spray with alu paint .