Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Behave man, they are just for show, he keeps the old newspapers in a drawer at the side of the bog.It's a "4er" as I see it. Doesn't a true Scotsman use the inner roll too?
- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
BarrieJ
Member
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- 895
- Location
- Milton Keynes, Bucks, United Kingdom
That'll look great when it's finished.
I think you can still get most of the parts for an Eccles' lamp, a new glass is about £20 (I was shocked to learn a new lamp is £299!).
Is yours an Eccles or a Thomas and Williams? The makers name plaque on the upper body that usually carried the miner's lamp check number is that missing? I couldn't see it in the pics and wondered if you'd removed it for restoration.
Cracking job though and a lovely project for a restoration.
I used to make a tunnel under the dining room table with blankets, put the lights out and get the grandkids to crawl under there with just the light from their great granddad's lamp. They thought it great fun. Their grt granddad was a hewer in a 2'9" anthracite seam, an hour's walk from pit bottom. Never had the chance of working with a coal cutter, only pick and shovel. Killed him eventually.
What bog? I thought you Scots just went out & squatted in the heather. That's why you all still wear skirts, sorry kilts & no underwear, makes the while process simpler!
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
What bog? I thought you Scots just went out & squatted in the heather. That's why you all still wear skirts, sorry kilts & no underwear, makes the while process simpler!
Well I did say the bog, you never heard of Peat?
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- 29,540
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- Scottish Highlands
It's a "4er" as I see it. Doesn't a true Scotsman use the inner roll too?
Floor space was an issue, otherwise it might have been taller.
But here's a question for you. Why does every roll core have a number printed on the inside of it - and every number is different, even on rolls from the same pack?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,623
- Location
- Going Away.
Floor space was an issue, otherwise it might have been taller.
But here's a question for you. Why does every roll core have a number printed on the inside of it - and every number is different, even on rolls from the same pack?
QA.
They are batch numbers.
They mix the batches up. So if there is an issue with a batch. Not all the TP will be affected.
Woody.v8
Blue gluer
- Messages
- 4,155
- Location
- staffs
So the pattern matchesFloor space was an issue, otherwise it might have been taller.
But here's a question for you. Why does every roll core have a number printed on the inside of it - and every number is different, even on rolls from the same pack?
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- 29,540
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- Scottish Highlands
You mean like this.....?
Woody.v8
Blue gluer
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- 4,155
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- staffs
It doesn't sound right though "wiping your bum with a trump" !You mean like this.....?
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
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- 16,441
- Location
- ......
Nope but use Trump after a dump does.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,623
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- Going Away.
Not much to show, no welding, but a bit off heat was used on it.
How I got it.
Complete in the working parts. But font handle was missing.
There is a name stamped into the side cheek, but there was hair line cracks from the stampings.
Striped down.
The handle retaining screws needed heat to free them.But in the removal one bent and the front one striped the threads.
This blade was saveable, I did not have the blade I acquired today when tis shot was taken.
Hand dressed to 30deg and 20deg. The soot lamp allows me to see how much I need to remove.
This is according to the supplier is the correct blue, odd as I asked for black.
But you can see the rear hole now rethreaded. I used an old stud.
I cut a slot into it, heated to red heat and dipped into oil. This allowed me to re cut the thread in the soft casting of the body.
Ready to rebuild.
The screws and fixings were chemical blacked.
Rebuilt.
The sides and sole were polished flat on a sheet off glass and 800 grinding paste. I was surprized how quick it took to flatten the base.
The front handle was liberated from another plane. Turned down and drill to suit the base and the screws.
It cuts a treat.
It will get the blade and cap I acquired today.
When the cap iron is plated it will get that.
How I got it.
Complete in the working parts. But font handle was missing.
There is a name stamped into the side cheek, but there was hair line cracks from the stampings.
Striped down.
The handle retaining screws needed heat to free them.But in the removal one bent and the front one striped the threads.
This blade was saveable, I did not have the blade I acquired today when tis shot was taken.
Hand dressed to 30deg and 20deg. The soot lamp allows me to see how much I need to remove.
This is according to the supplier is the correct blue, odd as I asked for black.
But you can see the rear hole now rethreaded. I used an old stud.
I cut a slot into it, heated to red heat and dipped into oil. This allowed me to re cut the thread in the soft casting of the body.
Ready to rebuild.
The screws and fixings were chemical blacked.
Rebuilt.
The sides and sole were polished flat on a sheet off glass and 800 grinding paste. I was surprized how quick it took to flatten the base.
The front handle was liberated from another plane. Turned down and drill to suit the base and the screws.
It cuts a treat.
It will get the blade and cap I acquired today.
When the cap iron is plated it will get that.
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
- Messages
- 2,545
- Location
- The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
The apprentice finally had another go on her little 7”x 12” lathe today. I wanted make a little brass gun oiler, so turned all the parts down, and made the knurled cap, complete with groove for the O ring. Totally mucked up the size of the threaded end of the cap (1mm ish too narrow), consequently, there is only the ghost of a thread there. Still coming to grips with threading hole sizes, so any advice would be appreciated.
But, although it’s a bit of a fail, pleased to say that all the parting was done on the lathe (without any crashing), but the knurling tool I have really pushes the little lathe to its limits, if not carefully set up.
I still need to do some finishing, especially with the oil stick bit, as I felt I was pushing things a bit on the lathe trying to get the shape I wanted (I chickened out), but I will file that by hand. I was also trying to get a ‘brushed’ look on the case itself, but it just looks as if I didn’t do a finishing pass.
Never mind, you only learn by doing.
About knurling... are you sing a straight-in "bump" knurler? They're hard on small lathes, have a look online and make yourself a scissor knurler to use the wheels you've got, much kinder to the lathe!
Dave H. (the other one)
mrsbruce
Member
- Messages
- 1,974
- Location
- Livingston, Scotland
I have a cheap Chinese scissor knurler, but I don’t think I’ve been setting it up properly. I know the principles of setting up, but thinking about it, I may need to sort out the quick change tool holders. They are also cheap Chinese, and I could really do with upgrading the height adjustment bits. A couple of them like to ‘wander’ off by themselves after I’ve set them up. A bit fettling should sort that out, and make them more ‘repeatable’.
Had the idea to do this before I even had the magnet in my possession, so it's nice to follow it through and get this done today.
50mmx3mm flat bar, which I already had, cut to size, grinder rounded a few corners. Made a cut most of the way through, then bent over to form the shape; just need to add a fillet weld to the cut area now. Size of the hole required to mount the magnet took me by surprise; assumed it was 10mm, maybe 12mm, didn't have a metal bit large enough so ended up using a 14mm SDS bit from the 10mm steel bit I had, mangled the hole a little getting it done that way, but it does the job.
In near future I'll be adding a length of cable and a Dinse plug to put the return magnet into service; until then i'll use it to help pickup steel pieces from under the table.
50mmx3mm flat bar, which I already had, cut to size, grinder rounded a few corners. Made a cut most of the way through, then bent over to form the shape; just need to add a fillet weld to the cut area now. Size of the hole required to mount the magnet took me by surprise; assumed it was 10mm, maybe 12mm, didn't have a metal bit large enough so ended up using a 14mm SDS bit from the 10mm steel bit I had, mangled the hole a little getting it done that way, but it does the job.
In near future I'll be adding a length of cable and a Dinse plug to put the return magnet into service; until then i'll use it to help pickup steel pieces from under the table.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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- 19,623
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- Going Away.
Go Magnet fishing, in the sun. Have fun.
Made some blast gates for the dust collection system
I'd be very interested to know if those gates work well, we need to set up the extractor at our Men's shed & we are debating whether to buy or make our own blast gates.
BTW, what's the long brown thing sitting on the bench in the middle pic?
DennisCA
Member
- Messages
- 1,966
- Location
- Finland
I can't promise a speedy response to that since I don't know when I will actually get to try them out, but it's a common design online, they feel good at least. The thing in the middle picture is the router circle jig I used to make all the holes.
selectedgrub
Member
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- 3,323
- Location
- New Zealand
