DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
Look at a Colchester with a hard stare and it will twist
It is the shipping container where my CNC plasma is
mtt.tr
Member
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- Essex/Suffolk border
Look at a Colchester with a hard stare and it will twist
It is the shipping container where my CNC plasma is
Agreed
And disappointing
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
mtt.tr
Member
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- Essex/Suffolk border
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
That was the route I was originally going to take but then decided to go for a folding table and then got gifted the shipping container so built it solid. I still did it to more or les the same plan as the folding one was going to be simply because I was in a rush to get it done and didn't have time to redesign things.
I have contemplated redoing it but I probably will never get round to it and it does work well enough so....
zeppelin builder
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filled up a few bolt and fixing holes on the rear panel made cut out for centre exhaust ,bondo and primed , roof panel almost finished !going to keep filling and sanding and perhaps an isolator coat , then let it all settle for a couple of months to see if any shrinkage
removed trims from doors ,must have been glued on, had a nightmare getting the adhesive off had a die grinder and wire brush on them for ages
been consigned for the bin now as most of the plastic .
Armour plated pop on ns wing with 18 swg repair sections should last longer than me
next job works type front spoiler with tubular chassis leg brace and spot light bracketry, bit like a farm gate !
removed trims from doors ,must have been glued on, had a nightmare getting the adhesive off had a die grinder and wire brush on them for ages
been consigned for the bin now as most of the plastic .
Armour plated pop on ns wing with 18 swg repair sections should last longer than me
next job works type front spoiler with tubular chassis leg brace and spot light bracketry, bit like a farm gate !
henry Kadzielski
Member
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- 1,208
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- Australia Wollongong
You could throw a line in to get some dinner in your free time
Doesn't everything get covered on salt spray where you are.
Just speaking of plasma table upgrades, I am just about to start mine. The drawings are being done now and by early next week will be finished. This will be the first time I build something from drawings than just winging it
. As a result it should go together better, more accurate and be just more betterer
. We will see, it will be twice the current size and will have a rotary axis (already playing with the software and it works). The original machine will be doing the components for the new upgrade. I will post pic as I go in the plasma section. Wish me luck otherwise I might just pour some petrol on it
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
LOL
I used to do all my stuff with a quick sketch then modify as I go but now I tend to model things up, easier to adapt in a model and you can see things that will not work easier and can adapt quickly.
One of the main things I would do is have the slats with points on rather than just flat as it would hold the material off the slats and the dross wouldn't need scraped off so much.
I used to do all my stuff with a quick sketch then modify as I go but now I tend to model things up, easier to adapt in a model and you can see things that will not work easier and can adapt quickly.
One of the main things I would do is have the slats with points on rather than just flat as it would hold the material off the slats and the dross wouldn't need scraped off so much.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I brewed 70 litres of home brew on Sunday. I called it "Strange Brew" because I was listening to some Ginger Baker for some of it, and the Cream track came to mind. Plus its made from my own hops that I grew up one end of the barn.
I planted them about 8 years ago and usually forget to harvest them, but this year I collected about a kilo dry weight. I can't remember what varieties survived, I planted four mildew resistant strains of Fuggles, Redsell Eastwell Golding, Challenger and another I forget the variety. Three survived. I'm not sure what the combined alpha acid level (measure of potential bitterness) is but I guessed at 5% so used a Fuggle profile in the Brewsmith recipe builder. Ignore the costs, I don't set them.
So I made a special bitter style beer with Marris Otter Pale malt, double roast crystal, Munich malt and a bit of wheat malt for head retention, and 400g of homegrown hops, in 3 stages, 150g for 60 mins boil, another 150g at 30 mins and 100g in the steep after the boil.
As usual there was a few cock ups and break downs. First was the pumps, after years of using "solar pumps" which are used to recirculate boiling water around solar thermal panels, I decided to buy a pair of decent beer pumps and settled on the Blichmann Riptide pump. The first one tripped the RCD, the second one was fine. I only need two pumps while sparging the grain so no big deal. The pumps are great when they work, purging air and cleaning is really easy, and the integral flow control fantastic. I shall investigate the first pump with a meter before sending it back.
The cock-up was I made the school-boy error of forgetting to fit the hop filter into the copper, meaning I had to pump all the hot wort into the hot liquor tank, fit the filter, then pump it back. No big deal I guess, just annoying.
Final failure was I have an intermittent heating element in the copper. It sounds like the over-temp cut-out is a bit eager which meant it only flicked on occasionally, usually after a tap with a screwdriver handle. The copper needs two elements to get a nice rolling boil on 80+ litres of liquid. Fortunately it seem to improve as the brew went on but I think I will replace it.
The wort went into the fermentation vessel at 1.048 OG, so probably will end up around 5%
Cheers
Andy
I planted them about 8 years ago and usually forget to harvest them, but this year I collected about a kilo dry weight. I can't remember what varieties survived, I planted four mildew resistant strains of Fuggles, Redsell Eastwell Golding, Challenger and another I forget the variety. Three survived. I'm not sure what the combined alpha acid level (measure of potential bitterness) is but I guessed at 5% so used a Fuggle profile in the Brewsmith recipe builder. Ignore the costs, I don't set them.
So I made a special bitter style beer with Marris Otter Pale malt, double roast crystal, Munich malt and a bit of wheat malt for head retention, and 400g of homegrown hops, in 3 stages, 150g for 60 mins boil, another 150g at 30 mins and 100g in the steep after the boil.
As usual there was a few cock ups and break downs. First was the pumps, after years of using "solar pumps" which are used to recirculate boiling water around solar thermal panels, I decided to buy a pair of decent beer pumps and settled on the Blichmann Riptide pump. The first one tripped the RCD, the second one was fine. I only need two pumps while sparging the grain so no big deal. The pumps are great when they work, purging air and cleaning is really easy, and the integral flow control fantastic. I shall investigate the first pump with a meter before sending it back.
The cock-up was I made the school-boy error of forgetting to fit the hop filter into the copper, meaning I had to pump all the hot wort into the hot liquor tank, fit the filter, then pump it back. No big deal I guess, just annoying.
Final failure was I have an intermittent heating element in the copper. It sounds like the over-temp cut-out is a bit eager which meant it only flicked on occasionally, usually after a tap with a screwdriver handle. The copper needs two elements to get a nice rolling boil on 80+ litres of liquid. Fortunately it seem to improve as the brew went on but I think I will replace it.
The wort went into the fermentation vessel at 1.048 OG, so probably will end up around 5%
Cheers
Andy
Seadog
Save the planet. It's the only one with rum!
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My recollection is that there is a screwdriver one side and a feeler gauge the other, and the spanners in the middle, of course.
henry Kadzielski
Member
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- Australia Wollongong
If you mean the dross on the slats? Then I use a penumatic chisel and just rattle the side of a slat and the dross shakes off
. A needle scaller would also do the job. Not perfect but good enough. I find that the 'point' slats would make it easier for the smaller bits to partially or fully fall through (get cocked up)
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
It would deped on the spacing I think.If you mean the dross on the slats? Then I use a penumatic chisel and just rattle the side of a slat and the dross shakes off
It is something I am going to do at some point, will buy a sheet of 3mm and plasma cut some out and test them. Worst comes to the worst I can just flip them round and use them the other way up.
Now, if I could just get the ordinary thing to start...
123hotchef
Member
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- 14,195
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- Kent
123hotchef
Member
- Messages
- 14,195
- Location
- Kent
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Today I did an adaption to a guide roller from a boats roller system, it is a bought roller and quite poorly designed in that the rope could slip in between the side bracket and the main roller. I added a piece of 6mm Aluminium to the side to hopefully deflect the rope away from the side of the main roller.
I also made an Acetal roller for a hanging block.
This evening I set about adapting a block I had made up which I was going to fit to my CNC lathe. It was to allow me to fit the tool holders from an old turret I had on the lathe previously.
My friend has recently fitted one of the SZGH CNC controllers to his mill and due to the way the tools are set up you need a fixed reference point. His mill is a knee mill so the knee is moved up and down from job to job and thus there is no fixed point for setting the tools up. I suggested he could use one of the toolholders I have and the block pictured above and make an arm to fit a tool setter to.
So I chopped the big block down in the bandsaw then trued up the back, bored and counter bored 4 holes for cap screws and then cut a keyway so that the holder has a positive stop.
The next job was to mill a flat face onto the tool holder, here it is clamped to the dovetail block I previously machined.
.
The last part was to make the arm that the tool setter will sit on. It will bolt to the tool block above but I will leave the drilling of bolt holes to him as he will be able to position it accurately so that it is directly below his spindle.
The block will be bolted to the side of the mills head and the arm and tool holder will be able to come off with a 1/4 turn of the clamping screws and when needed it can be accurately and repeatably fitted onto the the block in a few seconds, well that is the theory anyway
I also made an Acetal roller for a hanging block.
This evening I set about adapting a block I had made up which I was going to fit to my CNC lathe. It was to allow me to fit the tool holders from an old turret I had on the lathe previously.
My friend has recently fitted one of the SZGH CNC controllers to his mill and due to the way the tools are set up you need a fixed reference point. His mill is a knee mill so the knee is moved up and down from job to job and thus there is no fixed point for setting the tools up. I suggested he could use one of the toolholders I have and the block pictured above and make an arm to fit a tool setter to.
So I chopped the big block down in the bandsaw then trued up the back, bored and counter bored 4 holes for cap screws and then cut a keyway so that the holder has a positive stop.
The next job was to mill a flat face onto the tool holder, here it is clamped to the dovetail block I previously machined.
.
The last part was to make the arm that the tool setter will sit on. It will bolt to the tool block above but I will leave the drilling of bolt holes to him as he will be able to position it accurately so that it is directly below his spindle.
The block will be bolted to the side of the mills head and the arm and tool holder will be able to come off with a 1/4 turn of the clamping screws and when needed it can be accurately and repeatably fitted onto the the block in a few seconds, well that is the theory anyway
slim_boy_fat
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123hotchef
Member
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about 400Are you feeding the five thousand?
