- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Whilst waiting for my friend visiting from Weegieland I threw a chunk of 6" dia x 2" thick steel into the Triumph. Faced and partielly turned one side then spun it around and faced/turned the other then drilled out the centre with a spade drill (love them)
It will form part of a tiller arm for a boat that is up the slipway.
When my friend arrived we shoved a 6ft length of 2" dia in the Computurn and I turned the end down to 1 7/8" diameter and then cut a 1 1/2" - 12 UNF thread. This is really the first time I have used the tool setter to set up the threading tool so I was pleased to see things came out exactly as they should with a good fitting thread.
Need to cut a keyway into the shaft and then it is ready for welding the rudder plates to, that will be Monday.
It will form part of a tiller arm for a boat that is up the slipway.
When my friend arrived we shoved a 6ft length of 2" dia in the Computurn and I turned the end down to 1 7/8" diameter and then cut a 1 1/2" - 12 UNF thread. This is really the first time I have used the tool setter to set up the threading tool so I was pleased to see things came out exactly as they should with a good fitting thread.
Need to cut a keyway into the shaft and then it is ready for welding the rudder plates to, that will be Monday.
Spark plug
Member
- Messages
- 4,062
- Location
- Durham, England
Today I have started to have a go at making a quick change tool holder for the lathe, but can’t go any further as the tee slot cutter I ordered hasn’t turned up yet:
need to find something else to do now.
need to find something else to do now.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,623
- Location
- Going Away.
With a lot of pushing, shouting and even being dragged out to the workshop.
This is what I managed.
A Plumb Bob, blackened. The bolt was hand drilled. Egg Beater drill C/O @Chillitt and the string fed through.
Fitted the handle.
Baby steps. @Parm @Wozzaaah and @slim_boy_fat
This is what I managed.
A Plumb Bob, blackened. The bolt was hand drilled. Egg Beater drill C/O @Chillitt and the string fed through.
Fitted the handle.
Baby steps. @Parm @Wozzaaah and @slim_boy_fat
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,864
- Location
- Towcester
Good Man
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,382
- Location
- Kent, UK
If you have a beefy mill that can turn a 1" shank tool you could probably grind one down, or better yet get a horizontal mill cutter and braze it onto a stub.
Spark plug
Member
- Messages
- 4,062
- Location
- Durham, England
I've got one on order, probably turn up Monday, I’m in no big rush but all good tips anyway.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,605
- Location
- UK
Apart from welding the penultimate frame for the base of kitchen cabinets today, I've been overseeing the building of this.
It is the base for a posh chicken shed. It will be block up to the height of the banking behind it, but only on three sides. On top of that will be a block and beam floor, then the chicken shed will go on top. This is behind the barn so largely sheltered. The chickens will have somewhere undercover below the chicken shed given it rains a lot around here, and it will keep their feed dry. The block showing will be covered with random stone on the outside. Although the chicken shed will look like traditional shiplap construction on the outside, it will be insulated and have smooth internal surface so there's less places for red mite to hide. There will be plenty of controllable ventilation of course, but it should be a bit warmer than their current drafty shed.
The chickens will have about a third of an acre of woods to roam around in, but if we have to contain them due to bird flu etc. then we can quickly put up some mesh between the shed and the back of the barn. I only store wood for the stoves in IBC cages around the back of the barn, so they won't get in the way.
Cheers
Andy
It is the base for a posh chicken shed. It will be block up to the height of the banking behind it, but only on three sides. On top of that will be a block and beam floor, then the chicken shed will go on top. This is behind the barn so largely sheltered. The chickens will have somewhere undercover below the chicken shed given it rains a lot around here, and it will keep their feed dry. The block showing will be covered with random stone on the outside. Although the chicken shed will look like traditional shiplap construction on the outside, it will be insulated and have smooth internal surface so there's less places for red mite to hide. There will be plenty of controllable ventilation of course, but it should be a bit warmer than their current drafty shed.
The chickens will have about a third of an acre of woods to roam around in, but if we have to contain them due to bird flu etc. then we can quickly put up some mesh between the shed and the back of the barn. I only store wood for the stoves in IBC cages around the back of the barn, so they won't get in the way.
Cheers
Andy
Spark plug
Member
- Messages
- 4,062
- Location
- Durham, England
Bit of a boring one but I needed a 5/8” hex chuck key for my 4 jaw. The only one I could find on the inter web was about £100 
and that wasn’t going to happen so found a pice of EN19 in the rack and knocked this up:
Hopefully it will hold up.
and that wasn’t going to happen so found a pice of EN19 in the rack and knocked this up:Hopefully it will hold up.
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
- Messages
- 16,441
- Location
- ......
Made a few for all my chucks. Far too tight to buy em.Bit of a boring one but I needed a 5/8” hex chuck key for my 4 jaw. The only one I could find on the inter web was about £100
View attachment 201673
Hopefully it will hold up.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
- Messages
- 17,864
- Location
- Towcester
Same, it’s the first thing I made when I got the lathe. It’s not difficult
eLuSiVeMiTe
Member
- Messages
- 16,441
- Location
- ......
Are you unwell or have I missed a post somewhere?
selectedgrub
Member
- Messages
- 3,323
- Location
- New Zealand
Hi guys.
Today I sand table.
Today I sand table.
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Even easier with a Chiron
Hood
I am obsessed.
- Messages
- 17,308
- Location
- Carnoustie, Scotland
Yesterday and today.
Cut the keyway in the rudder shaft.
Then machined a key.
Next up I cut some 16mm steel for the tiller arms on the plasma, two of these.
Bit of a cockup in the above one, the plasma never cut through part of the hole so I had to drill it a bit to knock it out. I think it was some water in the air added to the fact that the steel had quite a lot of flake rust on the underside.
Anyway no big deal as I had cut undersize so that I could finish machine the holes and slot to size.
I then machined the centre hub for the cap screws.
Once that was done I made up a couple of bits so that the 3 parts of the tiller arm could be located whilst being welded.
It was the boatyard welder that was welding them so once he had finished I got the arm back and chopped it in the bandsaw.
Had to bore fully through the arm half so lowered the table on the Arboga and raised the head fully.
I then tapped the holes M12.
Last thing for today was to cut the rudder from some 12mm steel.
Cut the keyway in the rudder shaft.
Then machined a key.
Next up I cut some 16mm steel for the tiller arms on the plasma, two of these.
Bit of a cockup in the above one, the plasma never cut through part of the hole so I had to drill it a bit to knock it out. I think it was some water in the air added to the fact that the steel had quite a lot of flake rust on the underside.
Anyway no big deal as I had cut undersize so that I could finish machine the holes and slot to size.
I then machined the centre hub for the cap screws.
Once that was done I made up a couple of bits so that the 3 parts of the tiller arm could be located whilst being welded.
It was the boatyard welder that was welding them so once he had finished I got the arm back and chopped it in the bandsaw.
Had to bore fully through the arm half so lowered the table on the Arboga and raised the head fully.
I then tapped the holes M12.
Last thing for today was to cut the rudder from some 12mm steel.
