Stuff you have made today

rockweasel · Oct 24, 2016

pedrobedro said:
Also what kind of circular saw are you using. A table saw will stop the splintering as the wood is supported close to where the blade cuts. A hand held saw needs to be adjusted so the blade only just cuts through the material and a fine cut blade is beneficial as well. You can make a biscuit jointer with an angle grinder on instructables

I'm using a hand held circular saw. The blade is not what you would call "fine". I've reduced the depth of the cut, but will try to reduce it a bit more.

DennisCA · Oct 26, 2016

Found some sprockets for the pots, turned out to work as kinda cool looking dials. Better spring acquired and some steel wire. Pedal feels better to actuate now. Next step is get the 3rd pot hooked up to the actual movement of the pedal. Then I can mount the electronics and switch. And finally make a cable. I'm gonna try etching a circuit board now actually.

selectedgrub · Oct 26, 2016

Shaping brace

robdxr2 · Oct 28, 2016

What I've made this week from drawing to laser to pressbrake to welder to this

They are covers for a Amada em punch that came from Poland its had a hard life

AndersK · Oct 28, 2016

Havent done any metalwork since march but started a small portable fixture table.
8mm steel top

WorkshopChris · Oct 28, 2016

rockweasel said:
Lesson 1: Plywood splinters when you attack it with a circular saw. Google to the rescue and I scored any other cuts to be made with a knife and put masking tape along the edge before cutting it with the saw. Big improvement, but not perfect.

If you can clamp something to the sheet to use as a guide to run the saw along, its normally the top that splits with the better finish on the underside, you can also overcome this by scoring the top, set the blade to just cut about 2mm then re set and run all the way through.

Jim Davey · Oct 28, 2016

Sandwich the ply with a sacrificial sheet of something inexpensive or an offcut over the top, this will prevent breakout at the top edge of the cut as the fragile top laminate will be retained by the piece above.

robdxr2 · Oct 28, 2016

wouldn't like to carry the portable table far :laughing:

good idea for small workshop will it fold down

rockweasel · Oct 28, 2016

WorkshopChris said:
If you can clamp something to the sheet to use as a guide to run the saw along, its normally the top that splits with the better finish on the underside, you can also overcome this by scoring the top, set the blade to just cut about 2mm then re set and run all the way through.

Jim Davey said:
Sandwich the ply with a sacrificial sheet of something inexpensive or an offcut over the top, this will prevent breakout at the top edge of the cut as the fragile top laminate will be retained by the piece above.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've been trying both the sacrificial wood and reducing the depth of the saw blade and both have made a big improvement.

AndersK · Oct 28, 2016

robdxr2 said:
wouldn't like to carry the portable table far good idea for small workshop will it fold down

Yes it will fold, and have two rollers.
The clamps will be used to lock in both positions

slim_boy_fat · Oct 29, 2016

AndersK said:
Yes it will fold, and have two rollers.
The clamps will be used to lock in both positions

View attachment 93805

Can I ask how much the plate cost [also, was it supplied pre-drilled?] and what the hole centres are please?

That'd be better than my current set up, which is 'adequate' for my current needs but is difficult to clamp stuff to, and I might get one made if it isn't/wasn't wallet-busting..... :ashamed:

Edit: Just noticed your pic of the mag drill :ashamed:

,so assume you did the holes yourself.... :thumbup:

Also, where did you source the clamps?

Jim Davey · Oct 29, 2016

He took a picture of the drilling machine so I think he made it himself.

Fintray · Oct 29, 2016

slim_boy_fat said:
Also, where did you source the clamps?

Try Googling "Stauff pipe clamps" and you'll get plenty of options.

slim_boy_fat · Oct 29, 2016

Fintray said:
Try Googling "Stauff pipe clamps" and you'll get plenty of options.

AndersK · Oct 29, 2016

@slim_boy_fat
Bought a plate about 1200x1200x8 mm for about 30£.

Stauff clamps are the same. mine came from a local hydraulic store, about 3£ each.

Pattern is 100 mm between holes and 50 mm between rows. 16 mm holes.

As mentioned I drilled them with magdrill and Rotabest core drill. Like cutting butter

I will make clamps like the Stronghand Insert-a-clamp to use in the holes.

slim_boy_fat · Oct 29, 2016

AndersK said:
@slim_boy_fat
Bought a plate about 1200x1200x8 mm for about 30£.

Stauff clamps are the same. mine came from a local hydraulic store, about 3£ each.

Pattern is 100 mm between holes and 50 mm between rows. 16 mm holes.

As mentioned I drilled them with magdrill and Rotabest core drill. Like cutting butter

I will make clamps like the Stronghand Insert-a-clamp to use in the holes.

Many thanks!

Migmac · Oct 29, 2016

Well we got talked with making reindeer for the school Christmas Faye. I thought 12 or so, oh teacher thought 40 would be good. Ended up making 46 smallish ones and 2 large ones. Did the two large ones today. All made out of logs and branches, we just do the bodies and the school kids finish them of with eyes, noses and scarves. Here are the 2 big ones

dobbslc · Oct 29, 2016

Errr....

roofman · Oct 29, 2016

dobbslc said:
View attachment 93882
Errr....

Sometimes less is more and your wording made me laugh hard and loud...Errr

dobbslc · Oct 29, 2016

Having read your recent post I'm glad I could help :laughing:

Stuff you have made today

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