- Thread starter God mode restorations
- Start date
I’ll keep the post,be alright for a gate,bit unusual as it’s 5” .
Feet 'n Inches
Out of the rat-race at last
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- 545
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- Devon, GB
Couldn't agree more. Some of Messrs. Bodgit & Scarper's finest.
Mick Annick
Forum Supporter
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- 2,618
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- Burgundy, France (450 miles SE of Somerset)
I used Fischer resin to secure all the uprights on the handrail for the stairs, excellent stuff, though hard work with a cheap mastic gun - I ruined two; will buy a proper one next time I’m out.
Brad93
Member
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- 18,343
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- Essex, United Kingdom
The Fischer one is far superior to any others I’ve used.
slim_boy_fat
Forum Supporter
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- Scottish Highlands
Dr.Al
Forum Supporter
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- 2,215
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- Gloucestershire, UK
Today I finished making a router table.
A few months ago I got a load of t-slot extrusion out of the skip at work. I've used some of this for my welding arm support and my bandsaw vertical table. This router table used up almost all of what I had left.
It's almost entirely made of t-slot extrusion, apart from a few bits of milled aluminium, four home-made thick steel washers and a bit of MDF (and a router table insert that I bought from Axminster). It mounts onto the bench (with two long M6 screws) rather than having feet like a normal router table. That means that it has a flat profile so it stores nicely.
It has two options for fences. Firstly, there's the fence that came with my 1/2" router, which has a millimetre "calibrated" dial for adjustment:
For more flexibility (but without the fine adjust), I can also slide the t-slot extrusion along and will probably use this to mount something tall for routing boards that are upright:
This is what it looks like under the MDF panel:
The bits of aluminium you can see are 12 mm thick and are there to bring the 18 mm MDF up to the same height as the top of the 30 mm extrusion.
The whole frame sitting on the bench:
The steel "washers" mounted to the bottom arms make up the difference between the two bits of 30 mm extrusion and my 53-ish mm thick bench.
I had to drill an extra hole in the router plate from Axminster (down and left from the central hole in the photo below) - that allows the long screw that came with my router to go in and adjust the cutter height from the top of the router table without having to scrabble below the table. The screw has a Phillips (in fact more likely JIS) head screw, so I might remake that with a hex socket at some point. Being a Japanese router it is at least a civilised metric thread (M6).
Another view of how it mounts to the bench:
The MDF panel is held in purely by the weight of the router (and the relatively tight fit in the extrusion), but I really can't see it going anywhere. It is, however, easy to get out so you can fit the router with the MDF loose:
and then drop it back into place when it's set up.
One big advantage of not having feet on the router table is that there's easy access to all sides of the router while it's in situ:
Note to self: must clean that sticky stuff off the front of the extrusion in that photo - I thought I'd got rid of all that blasted stuff! The perils of building stuff from skip-fodder!
I'd envisaged that it might need a support leg down to the ground to stop it sagging under the weight, but I can't see any movement when I drop the router and MDF panel into the frame, so I think it's fine. It would be easy to add this later anyway.
This was very much a make-it-up-as-you-go-along and involved lots of changes of plans (for example the reason I started thinking about bench mounting rather than having feet was that I didn't have enough t-slot extrusion left to make the feet!) Despite the haphazard design approach, I'm really pleased with the end result!
A few months ago I got a load of t-slot extrusion out of the skip at work. I've used some of this for my welding arm support and my bandsaw vertical table. This router table used up almost all of what I had left.
It's almost entirely made of t-slot extrusion, apart from a few bits of milled aluminium, four home-made thick steel washers and a bit of MDF (and a router table insert that I bought from Axminster). It mounts onto the bench (with two long M6 screws) rather than having feet like a normal router table. That means that it has a flat profile so it stores nicely.
It has two options for fences. Firstly, there's the fence that came with my 1/2" router, which has a millimetre "calibrated" dial for adjustment:
For more flexibility (but without the fine adjust), I can also slide the t-slot extrusion along and will probably use this to mount something tall for routing boards that are upright:
This is what it looks like under the MDF panel:
The bits of aluminium you can see are 12 mm thick and are there to bring the 18 mm MDF up to the same height as the top of the 30 mm extrusion.
The whole frame sitting on the bench:
The steel "washers" mounted to the bottom arms make up the difference between the two bits of 30 mm extrusion and my 53-ish mm thick bench.
I had to drill an extra hole in the router plate from Axminster (down and left from the central hole in the photo below) - that allows the long screw that came with my router to go in and adjust the cutter height from the top of the router table without having to scrabble below the table. The screw has a Phillips (in fact more likely JIS) head screw, so I might remake that with a hex socket at some point. Being a Japanese router it is at least a civilised metric thread (M6).
Another view of how it mounts to the bench:
The MDF panel is held in purely by the weight of the router (and the relatively tight fit in the extrusion), but I really can't see it going anywhere. It is, however, easy to get out so you can fit the router with the MDF loose:
and then drop it back into place when it's set up.
One big advantage of not having feet on the router table is that there's easy access to all sides of the router while it's in situ:
Note to self: must clean that sticky stuff off the front of the extrusion in that photo - I thought I'd got rid of all that blasted stuff! The perils of building stuff from skip-fodder!
I'd envisaged that it might need a support leg down to the ground to stop it sagging under the weight, but I can't see any movement when I drop the router and MDF panel into the frame, so I think it's fine. It would be easy to add this later anyway.
This was very much a make-it-up-as-you-go-along and involved lots of changes of plans (for example the reason I started thinking about bench mounting rather than having feet was that I didn't have enough t-slot extrusion left to make the feet!) Despite the haphazard design approach, I'm really pleased with the end result!
Just remember to either take the deep breath before you insert the straw in the hole, or before you apply your lips to the straw after inserting it in the hole . . . otherwise while the subsequent vacuum extraction of dust from the hole is quite efficient . . .
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,520
- Location
- Cumbria
Did you talk sharply to it?
I talk to all my gear, usually at either extreme, e.g.
"mmm, my gear is mint, love having gear"
or
"arrgghh, stupid piece of junk, useless scrap metal, what can I upgrade you to?"
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,602
- Location
- UK
A friend dropped by with a couple of old airplane instruments. Evidently they used to belong to his wife's father, so sentimental value. He wanted holes drilling in a manky bit of nail ridden timber to mount them in, it had to be thick timber as the gauges are 90mm deep. He wants to make a surprise present for the wife.
So I talked him out of using his timber, mainly to save my tools, I told him to leave it with me, he also liked a bit of leather I had that he thought may give it the old plane cockpit feel. It looks like a bit of old 70's bomber jacket to me but I don't think it looks too bad. I was going to put a bit of dark American walnut as a surround but I think I'll leave the rest to him.
It's a bit of Douglas fir I had left over that I used as a general workshop chock. Not sure if he's wall or table mounting it.
So I talked him out of using his timber, mainly to save my tools, I told him to leave it with me, he also liked a bit of leather I had that he thought may give it the old plane cockpit feel. It looks like a bit of old 70's bomber jacket to me but I don't think it looks too bad. I was going to put a bit of dark American walnut as a surround but I think I'll leave the rest to him.
It's a bit of Douglas fir I had left over that I used as a general workshop chock. Not sure if he's wall or table mounting it.
Olderisbetter
Member
- Messages
- 3,741
- Location
- Wolverhampton
Used a bit of angle and flat plate to make a jig i can follow welding up corners on a box section, i am not ill i am just a crappy welder
Olderisbetter
Member
- Messages
- 3,741
- Location
- Wolverhampton
It is just held in place with a clamp
Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
- Messages
- 12,917
- Location
- France, Brittany.
This morning I cut a hole in a RSJ to pass a drainage pipe for the upstairs bathroom, using my plasma cutter.
And I didn't set fire to anything!
Then I put the first layer of floor down provisionally. It will all come up again tomorrow, for the water pipes to be jointed and the drain pipe heights to fettled.
Not a huge amount of fun, but advancing, slowly.
And I didn't set fire to anything!
Then I put the first layer of floor down provisionally. It will all come up again tomorrow, for the water pipes to be jointed and the drain pipe heights to fettled.
Not a huge amount of fun, but advancing, slowly.
Munkul
Jack of some trades, Master of none
- Messages
- 7,520
- Location
- Cumbria
Fair enough, those diagonal welds are always tricky to get straight for some reason.Used a bit of angle and flat plate to make a jig i can follow welding up corners on a box section, i am not ill i am just a crappy welder
Fraserb
Member
- Messages
- 1,562
- Location
- Scottish Borders
.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
- Messages
- 19,614
- Location
- Going Away.
For a possible idea I am having, I needed to stamp out a lot of oval washers.
Making the Wad Punches was easy.
But I found that my off cut of tree stump was to low and rotten to be of use for the job. So, using some 4x4.
4 parts cut to a decent height. Top and bottom sides supported with more off cuts. It is hoped to stop the sides from splitting out.
For a bit of fun, 2 metal bands.
It was very pleasant in the sun cutting out the washers.
Making the Wad Punches was easy.
But I found that my off cut of tree stump was to low and rotten to be of use for the job. So, using some 4x4.
4 parts cut to a decent height. Top and bottom sides supported with more off cuts. It is hoped to stop the sides from splitting out.
For a bit of fun, 2 metal bands.
It was very pleasant in the sun cutting out the washers.
