The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Well the Old Meggar was repair, tested and cleaned up.
There are 2 jobs outstanding.
Repaired Con rods to secure the lid, Thank you kind Member.
A new leather handle. Ordered on Monday for a pre 10am, next day delivery. I think my mistake with the post office was. I didn't tell them what Monday.
We knew about this, before it was sent from Israel.
How can something be sent from Israel and be in my hands quicker than something ordered in the UK?
The screws were ting, brass and stuck in the wood. Plus the corrosion between the Alloy frame and the screws was not going to make the job simple.
Build a well of Hot melt glue round each screw, mix some "meths." and teak oil in equal measure and pour in the well. Go away and leave. Try to remove them by first tightening them up, then undoing. This freed all them off, in this case.
The frame was dressed back using hard wood punches and lots of fast, but light hammer blows.
The Alloy was softened as we worked it. Washing up liquid worked well.
This is one of the base plates to hold the levelling feet. The 2BA C/sunk slot head was not going to come out with out a long fight.
Even applying heat did not work.
With the hot melt glue well in place. Heat a copper rod up and apply to the screw head. Repeat and it should work. 4 out of 5 it did. This one had to be drilled out (4mm) and re-taped to 2BA.
New glass cut to size.
This is new glass cut for me. I tried with some old glass I had. 2 attempts failed on cutting the curved corners. The third worked, but looked so much like it was "Old glass used to make it look old". It stood out so badly I went and spent money on a new bit.
Top job to Roman Glass Frome. Top job done again.
A putty bead put in.
In the top you can see the workings of the device.
The inside, this drank wax and oil. With luck the oil will seep into the fixings screws to allow me, if the PO deliver the new strap, fit the new handle. The 2 fixing plates need a custom made Tamper bit made.
The yellow label is a Calibration sticker, last done in 1969.
The "gearbox" for the generator. This was a serious concern to me. It was seized. Not only is it a set of gears, there is a slip and over run clutch built in.
Yes if you look close you can see two on the Lid to base connecting rods. One in place and the other in the gears.
The lubrication holes are not accessible, unless you strip the unit down. Not happening until the seized base screws were hot. But we tried a way and it worked.
Apply warm sewing machine oil to the gears and axils. Mould a lead sheet over the wood sides. Grind a screwdriver to fit into the big gear, lower RHS.
Gently lever up and down, rocking the gear wheel.
Repeat.
After a few attempts you will find you can turn the handle a few teeth.
The gear box will only turn one way, so it takes patients and coffee.
But It did shift and a quick test showed I was getting 534v output.
The sound is like a WW2 air raid siren.
The lid is fixed, all be it temporary, The level bubble is now easily seen. The Bakelite switches need more work, but that is something to keep at. I knew they would not instantly return to their full glory.
I even saved the Dyno Label and a stamped number in the case.
Yes there is a "ding" on the glass frame, it looks worse than it is, the metal was to far stretched. But the flanges and the screw holes lined up.
The wood has suffered badly. But a few hard wax fills and lots of wax will have this looking good. Even after 24 coats of wax it is still drinking it in.
I may feed it wax and teek oil.
AVO leads fit this a treat.
The working end.
I am not 100% happy with the finish, that's down to the wood and the abuse it suffered in the damp.
The wood may shine and buff up.
But it works, so can't say to much.
In £ this and the Old volt meter cost £15 and about £7 to £10 shipping.
I am looking on how some good bits of English CRETE ended up in Israel.
There are 2 jobs outstanding.
Repaired Con rods to secure the lid, Thank you kind Member.
A new leather handle. Ordered on Monday for a pre 10am, next day delivery. I think my mistake with the post office was. I didn't tell them what Monday.
We knew about this, before it was sent from Israel.
How can something be sent from Israel and be in my hands quicker than something ordered in the UK?
The screws were ting, brass and stuck in the wood. Plus the corrosion between the Alloy frame and the screws was not going to make the job simple.
Build a well of Hot melt glue round each screw, mix some "meths." and teak oil in equal measure and pour in the well. Go away and leave. Try to remove them by first tightening them up, then undoing. This freed all them off, in this case.
The frame was dressed back using hard wood punches and lots of fast, but light hammer blows.
The Alloy was softened as we worked it. Washing up liquid worked well.
This is one of the base plates to hold the levelling feet. The 2BA C/sunk slot head was not going to come out with out a long fight.
Even applying heat did not work.
With the hot melt glue well in place. Heat a copper rod up and apply to the screw head. Repeat and it should work. 4 out of 5 it did. This one had to be drilled out (4mm) and re-taped to 2BA.
New glass cut to size.
This is new glass cut for me. I tried with some old glass I had. 2 attempts failed on cutting the curved corners. The third worked, but looked so much like it was "Old glass used to make it look old". It stood out so badly I went and spent money on a new bit.
Top job to Roman Glass Frome. Top job done again.
A putty bead put in.
In the top you can see the workings of the device.
The inside, this drank wax and oil. With luck the oil will seep into the fixings screws to allow me, if the PO deliver the new strap, fit the new handle. The 2 fixing plates need a custom made Tamper bit made.
The yellow label is a Calibration sticker, last done in 1969.
The "gearbox" for the generator. This was a serious concern to me. It was seized. Not only is it a set of gears, there is a slip and over run clutch built in.
Yes if you look close you can see two on the Lid to base connecting rods. One in place and the other in the gears.
The lubrication holes are not accessible, unless you strip the unit down. Not happening until the seized base screws were hot. But we tried a way and it worked.
Apply warm sewing machine oil to the gears and axils. Mould a lead sheet over the wood sides. Grind a screwdriver to fit into the big gear, lower RHS.
Gently lever up and down, rocking the gear wheel.
Repeat.
After a few attempts you will find you can turn the handle a few teeth.
The gear box will only turn one way, so it takes patients and coffee.
But It did shift and a quick test showed I was getting 534v output.
The sound is like a WW2 air raid siren.
The lid is fixed, all be it temporary, The level bubble is now easily seen. The Bakelite switches need more work, but that is something to keep at. I knew they would not instantly return to their full glory.
I even saved the Dyno Label and a stamped number in the case.
Yes there is a "ding" on the glass frame, it looks worse than it is, the metal was to far stretched. But the flanges and the screw holes lined up.
The wood has suffered badly. But a few hard wax fills and lots of wax will have this looking good. Even after 24 coats of wax it is still drinking it in.
I may feed it wax and teek oil.
AVO leads fit this a treat.
The working end.
I am not 100% happy with the finish, that's down to the wood and the abuse it suffered in the damp.
The wood may shine and buff up.
But it works, so can't say to much.
In £ this and the Old volt meter cost £15 and about £7 to £10 shipping.
I am looking on how some good bits of English CRETE ended up in Israel.
) in the curve came from, I swear it was perfect when I did it. 
