Stuff you have made today

[Nauticus]

I think i burnt out my CB power supply.


Trying to get a deep etch so i can pour a thin layer of coloured epoxy to simulate enamel, but it cut out after 30 minutes (i figured 60-90 minutes to get a 0.5mm deep etch)
I also experimented with thin lines to see how thin i could go before i get undercut.

View attachment 256143

That looks interesting. What is the material you are using?
Malc.

 

[Nauticus]

I bought myself a volcano(?) nozzle, and 3mm(?) filament for my anet A8(a6?)

3mm?? That's larger than the welding rods I use for PVC and ABS welding!!

My boxes would be done in less than 5 minutes!!!

Malc,

 

[Nauticus]

Following on from the 'manger' style planters I made for the wife a few weeks ago, I finished the latest planter yesterday.

Octaginal, 1.2 meters across the flats.

As usual, a good coat of "Rust-Anode" cold galvanising paint followed by two coats of Palatine Hammer Finish paint.

The wood was soaked forcibly submerged for 24 hours in wood preservative and and the bottom boards had a further treatment of thinned down Black Jack painted on both sides.

7 bags of compost and 7 bags of horticultural sand were mixed in the cement mixer in order to fill it.

The Fairy Gardener is over the moon with it - now she has to decide what she is going to plant in there.

Above - the frame in galvanising paint.

Above - ready for filling.

Above - filled and ready for planting.

Malc.

 

[bigegg]

That looks interesting. What is the material you are using?
Malc.

Zintec offcuts from the big sheet i bought to line my trailer.
1.2mm, i think.

Etched in a saturated table salt solution.
Positive to the plate.
Negative to the "sacrificial" piece of mild steel.
(I say "sacrificial", - it is effectively being electrolytically de-rusted, but at too harsh a current for normal de-rusting.).

 

[Nauticus]

Zintec offcuts from the big sheet i bought to line my trailer.
1.2mm, i think.

Etched in a saturated table salt solution.
Positive to the plate.
Negative to the "sacrificial" piece of mild steel.
(I say "sacrificial", - it is effectively being electrolytically de-rusted, but at too harsh a current for normal de-rusting.).

Is the use of ferric chloride workable? or is it too harsh?
I used to use that years ago in order to produce printed circuits for electronic projects - although electrolysis was not needed with the copper - it was just a passive reaction.

Malc.

 

[bigegg]

Is the use of ferric chloride workable? or is it too harsh?
I used to use that years ago in order to produce printed circuits for electronic projects - although electrolysis was not needed with the copper - it was just a passive reaction.

Malc.

I have no idea.
I didnt have any ferric chloride, i had table salt, and a power supply.

 

[northwest]

Finished the bases for the target stands. Really like the Bester, it is a really good welder, I am very impressed with it and my Mig welding, which I haven't been doing for very long, only a year or so, has come on leaps and bounds. I have no real issues whether the weld is horizontal, vertical or in any other direction, they are all acceptable (to me).



I am not sure whether or not an MB 25 torch would help me out. I have an MB15 Binzel Evo which I really like but almost all of my welding is on 3mm thick steel, once in a while I will use 2mm stuff but as a general rule everything I fabricate is 3mm. I now feel that I am keeping the speed down to allow the torch to keep up, anyone care to comment?

 

[doubleboost]

Custom fuel filler neck for a 1 off alloy tank 6 mill pitch thread

 

[eSCHEn]

I have no idea.
I didnt have any ferric chloride, i had table salt, and a power supply.

Having spent some time etching various things on a DIY basis I would say the best thing you can do is to get your etching solution as strong and bitey as possible. Salt is not going to be that aggressive and so you have to spend ages applying power and the result is lost detail and fuzziness of lines. As suggested FeCl3 is good, when hot even better, but try looking up "Edinburgh Etchant" and some of the recipes used by the modern electronics hackers, there's a lot of things to try nowadays.

TLDR;
Make etchant as strong and corrosive as possible to reduce time etching which is what loses detail.

 

[mr migwire]

more holes disapeared yesterday, we are now moving on to the underside which has a gentle curve to follow the shape of the boiler.

 

[Munkul]

What IS that thing?! looks big and awesome. A locomotive boiler?

 

[mechman]

Loco water tank.

 

[mr migwire]

What IS that thing?! looks big and awesome. A locomotive boiler?

a locomotive water tank for a little steam loco, 112 years old so needs some tlc...

 

[bigegg]

Having spent some time etching various things on a DIY basis I would say the best thing you can do is to get your etching solution as strong and bitey as possible. Salt is not going to be that aggressive and so you have to spend ages applying power and the result is lost detail and fuzziness of lines. As suggested FeCl3 is good, when hot even better, but try looking up "Edinburgh Etchant" and some of the recipes used by the modern electronics hackers, there's a lot of things to try nowadays.

TLDR;
Make etchant as strong and corrosive as possible to reduce time etching which is what loses detail.

Thanks for that.
I'll order some ferric chloride and give it a blast - although to be honest, i'm drifting more towards electroplating/electrotyping at the moment.


<Ooh, look: a bird!>

 

[roblane65]

Finished the bases for the target stands. Really like the Bester, it is a really good welder, I am very impressed with it and my Mig welding, which I haven't been doing for very long, only a year or so, has come on leaps and bounds. I have no real issues whether the weld is horizontal, vertical or in any other direction, they are all acceptable (to me).

View attachment 256201

I am not sure whether or not an MB 25 torch would help me out. I have an MB15 Binzel Evo which I really like but almost all of my welding is on 3mm thick steel, once in a while I will use 2mm stuff but as a general rule everything I fabricate is 3mm. I now feel that I am keeping the speed down to allow the torch to keep up, anyone care to comment?

I use an MB 25 evo pro with my bester and find a good match for slightly thicker stuff and its got the nicest grip I've ever used and well worth the little money paid around £70 ish for mine.

 

[northwest]

I use an MB 25 evo pro with my bester and find a good match for slightly thicker stuff and its got the nicest grip I've ever used

Thanks for that, I am going to look at it. I have the MB15 Evo, in the 15 size they do the Evo but not the Evo Pro. I will say, the grip is nice and seems to have a sort of "flat" on the back and it is handy to rest your thumb on.

 

[roblane65]

If you go on the abicor binzel site I'm sure you can get the evo pro in 15 and 25 Btw I also find that the little extra weight in the torch over the 15 somehow nicer to use and the lead is super flexi to.

 

[pressbrake1]

I made myself sick having to bore out a 100mm hole in a solid lump of six inch diameter nickel ally bronze.
The swarf owes three figures £££
Got to do the same to another lump tomorrow.
Still better than buying a piece of cored specially for the job but the lump in my throat won’t go

 

[Brad93]

I made myself sick having to bore out a 100mm hole in a solid lump of six inch diameter nickel ally bronze.
The swarf owes three figures £££
Got to do the same to another lump tomorrow.
Still better than buying a piece of cored specially for the job but the lump in my throat won’t goView attachment 256313

Need like a big trepanning or coring drill

 

[pressbrake1]

Need like a big trepanning or coring drill

I did try, broke a expensive trepanning tool for my trouble