Stuff you have made today

[Kram]

Playing Tetris

The problem with real life tetris is it requires adhesive, and Ive ran out (about an ago). No car tomorrow, forgot to order any, and its going to be wet. I'll do something else. Ignore the taped half tiles, just spacers until I get the cutter out.

Also got most of my power cables done.

Now about to eat dinner. Almost 2am Im a few hours out..

 

[Munkul]

More brown stuff.

View attachment 256045

Kuhn ploughs seem to be the business these days. I'd love an older varimaster, if we had the tractor to pull it

Do you always run in-furrow?

 

[Morrisman]

I boxed in some pipework in my front garage, where my hot rod will hopefully soon live. Last thing I want is a torn or dinked water, or gas pipe, while i’m wielding spanners and hammers. I’ve also given the walls a coat of the white stuff, to brighten it up in there, more strip lights to come.

 

[Fraserb]

Kuhn ploughs seem to be the business these days. I'd love an older varimaster, if we had the tractor to pull it

Do you always run in-furrow?

Always in furrow, this was another demo so came with the on land kit. It was a good plough and went well, nothing jumped out as better than the lemken though.

 

[Munkul]

Always in furrow, this was another demo so came with the on land kit. It was a good plough and went well, nothing jumped out as better than the lemken though.

What's the reason for not running on land? Just the faffing with autosteer etc?

 

[Fraserb]

What's the reason for not running on land? Just the faffing with autosteer etc?

On the demo it was because I don't have the GPS moved from combine to the tractor yet, long term all our ground gets muck and slurry and sometimes I'm close to the limit for grip when in the furrow, so would struggle on land.

 

[Munkul]

On the demo it was because I don't have the GPS moved from combine to the tractor yet, long term all our ground gets muck and slurry and sometimes I'm close to the limit for grip when in the furrow, so would struggle on land.

Ah, i thought you'd have better grip on land! My mistake.

 

[Munkul]

Made a pair of triangles the other day, and cut and welded them together last night.



One more pair to do.

For a very chunky dining table!

 

[Nick DV]

Made a pair of triangles the other day, and cut and welded them together last night.

View attachment 256107 View attachment 256108

One more pair to do.

For a very chunky dining table!

Nice What size box section is that? Just wondered as someone has asked me if I would replace the legs on a heavy oak table with steel ones

 

[Munkul]

Nice What size box section is that? Just wondered as someone has asked me if I would replace the legs on a heavy oak table with steel ones

75 x 3mm square. It's a nice compromise between 50mm and 100mm

 

[Nick DV]

75 x 3mm square. It's a nice compromise between 50mm and 100mm

Thanks, and I agree

 

[Nauticus]

Over the past few weeks I have been rationalising my 'small parts' storage - nuts, bolts washers, screws nails etc etc. Sizes range from very small nuts, washers, tacks etc to large nails, screws and so on.
I have four tower sets of eight plastic drawer towers each bought from Office world before their demise. This gave me 32 drawers (which could each house a ream of A4 paper), which clearly was not an economical use of 'segregated space"

After noting the internal dimensions of the drawers, I decided to create four basic box compartments in each drawer - and then make them either full height of half height. I used OpenScad for this since it is exceptionally quick and simple to produce all the box designs I wanted.

Then, various boxes were designed with varying numbers of internal compartments - to accommodate different sizes and quantities. I must now have around 20 different designs.

The STL file from OpenScad was sliced using the Prussa slicer.

The 3D printer was then put to work producing boxes. What a great way to use up spare filament!!! - I don't really mind what colour the boxes are.

So far I have printed about one hundred boxes - and I still have a some spare drawer spaces to fill.

Some drawers simply have four full height "one compartment" boxes, others have eight half height "multiple compartment" boxes - and others a combination.

Sticky labels on the drawer fronts will indicate what is stored inside.

If anybody wants the OpenScad code let me know.

 

[bigegg]

Over the past few weeks I have been rationalising my 'small parts' storage - nuts, bolts washers, screws nails etc etc. Sizes range from very small nuts, washers, tacks etc to large nails, screws and so on.
I have four tower sets of eight plastic drawer towers each bought from Office world before their demise. This gave me 32 drawers (which could each house a ream of A4 paper), which clearly was not an economical use of 'segregated space"

After noting the internal dimensions of the drawers, I decided to create four basic box compartments in each drawer - and then make them either full height of half height. I used OpenScad for this since it is exceptionally quick and simple to produce all the box designs I wanted.

Then, various boxes were designed with varying numbers of internal compartments - to accommodate different sizes and quantities. I must now have around 20 different designs.

The STL file from OpenScad was sliced using the Prussa slicer.

The 3D printer was then put to work producing boxes. What a great way to use up spare filament!!! - I don't really mind what colour the boxes are.

So far I have printed about one hundred boxes - and I still have a some spare drawer spaces to fill.

Some drawers simply have four full height "one compartment" boxes, others have eight half height "multiple compartment" boxes - and others a combination.

Sticky labels on the drawer fronts will indicate what is stored inside.

If anybody wants the OpenScad code let me know.


View attachment 256119 View attachment 256120 View attachment 256121

Nice!

How long per box/batch?

 

[Nauticus]

Nice!

How long per box/batch?

A 'half-height one compartment" takes a little over an hour. A full -height six compartment takes about 4 hours.

I can wind the speed up a bit if necessary but I usually just leave it alone and look in occasionally.

I try to do the longer prints at night, and then slow the printing down by as much as 50% - so at least it is "doing something" instead of just sitting idle with the power on.

I can get approx 10 full height or 15 half-height boxes to a 1kg roll of filament.

The first box had 1.5mm walls but that was too thick and took too long to print.
Next one was 1mm thick base and walls - very quick but a little flimsy.
Finally settled on 1.30mm for base and 1.25mm for the walls.

Malc

 

[bigegg]

A 'half-height one compartment" takes a little over an hour. A full -height six compartment takes about 3 hours.

I can wind the speed up a bit if necessary but I usually just leave it alone and look in occasionally.

I try to do the longer prints at night, and then slow the printing down by as much as 50% - so at least it is "doing something" instead of just sitting idle with the power on.

I can get approx 10 full height or 15 half-height boxes to a 1kg roll of filament.

The first box had 1.5mm walls but that was too thick and took too long to print.
Next one was 1mm thick base and walls - very quick but a little flimsy.
Finally settled on 1.30mm for base and 1.25mm for the walls.

Malc

I bought a sheet of foamex sheet from the range, and glued it together with superglue, 20mm pvc angle to reinforce the corners...

But i like those boxes - its given me an idea for custom fitted tubs to go in my sortimo-style bits cases...

 

[Nauticus]

I bought a sheet of foamex sheet from the range, and glued it together with superglue, 20mm pvc angle to reinforce the corners...

But i like those boxes - its given me an idea for custom fitted tubs to go in my sortimo-style bits cases...

If you want the code, let me know. It would be dead easy to alter the dimensions to suit your own requirements.
OpenScad is Open Source - so its a free program to download and available for almost every operating system.

Originally I did think of making boxes out of 4mm or 6mm ply but soon dismissed that as too time consuming and fiddly. They would probably be ok for large items, - but I'm trying to house small items, often low in numbers too, but all stored in one area. (4 tower drawer cabinets).

I will probably end up with around 150 boxes giving me around 200 to 400 individual compartments.

I'm still unpacking workshop tools and supplies from our house move a year ago, so now, when I find yet another stash of brand new screws, nuts, bolts, washers and nails or whatever, I just select the most appropriate box design on the 3D menu - and the box will be printed and completed with repeatable accuracy without any further input from me.

Now, I'm beginning to look at all these stored supplies, thinking "Will I ever use all of these??". I very much doubt it now!

Malc.

 

[garethp]

If you want to speed it up, use a 0.6 nozzle. Less travelling per wall thickness and less layers for a given height, quality is a slightly lower but I think the lower print times far outweighs that.

 

[bigegg]

I think i burnt out my CB power supply.


Trying to get a deep etch so i can pour a thin layer of coloured epoxy to simulate enamel, but it cut out after 30 minutes (i figured 60-90 minutes to get a 0.5mm deep etch)
I also experimented with thin lines to see how thin i could go before i get undercut.

It seems that the vinyl is the limiting factor, rather than the etching.
0.25mm comes off during weeding.
I also have my doubts about the 0.5mm if i etched for the complete hour

Between "etching" and the "negative", there is a bit of fine scriptwork that has just about disappeared.

 

[Nauticus]

If you want to speed it up, use a 0.6 nozzle. Less travelling per wall thickness and less layers for a given height, quality is a slightly lower but I think the lower print times far outweighs that.

Good call. I may try that later. It sounds interesting. Thanks for the suggestion.

At present the base layer is 0.4mm - max for the nozzle, and the rest of the printing is done at 0.3mm layers.

I could go and tweak Mr Prussa's print settings - I've noticed that the edges of the walls are printed far more slowly than the middle layers for example.

I was using the Repetier slicer, but I noticed that the Prussa slicer was available in the Ubuntu store so downloaded and tried it. I found it MUCH better, with far more options.

Malc

 

[bigegg]

Good call. I may try that later. It sounds interesting. Thanks for the suggestion.

At present the base layer is 0.4mm - max for the nozzle, and the rest of the printing is done at 0.3mm layers.

I could go and tweak Mr Prussa's print settings - I've noticed that the edges of the walls are printed far more slowly than the middle layers for example.

I was using the Repetier slicer, but I noticed that the Prussa slicer was available in the Ubuntu store so downloaded and tried it. I found it MUCH better, with far more options.

Malc

I bought myself a volcano(?) nozzle, and 3mm(?) filament for my anet A8(a6?)

It runs *much* faster, at the expense of resolution, but since i tend to use it for big lumps of solid plastic, rather than fine sculpture, it works much better for me.

I need to get it set up again for winter - its been in storage for the last 12 months, hence the brainfart over the numbers above.