Nick DV
"That's the only name they ever gave me."
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Really nice work Andy
- Thread starter God mode restorations
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mtt.tr
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Apprenticed as a traditional cabinet maker, i dont want to like the resin but those knives and block are something else.
good art is good art
Last edited:
Maker
Most folk just call me; Orange Joe
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I agree, always felt coloured resin was a bit too "Pinterest" for my liking but I can't deny that is very pretty.
Is there anything to top the knives on the top row sliding out when the drawer is opened with too much haste?
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I agree, always felt coloured resin was a bit too "Pinterest" for my liking but I can't deny that is very pretty.
Is there anything to top the knives on the top row sliding out when the drawer is opened with too much haste?
The blade sits below the level of the handle in the slot so it stops it sliding out. I guess some types of blade that are flush with the handle could slide back but the knives are quite snug so I don't think it would be an issue unless you were a really clumsy. A small stop behind the handle would make sure, maybe a bead of oak across the width.
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Did you make al the knives from scratch as well Andy?. I wish I had the skill to do all of that. Absolutely incredible.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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I wish! No, the knives came up on faceache just before Christmas, I tentatively put them in the basket, then left them there as I thought they were a tad too expensive for a tight Yorkshireman. But I was having a problem with a final pressie for the wife, so when they sent me a message with an extra 20% off I thought sod it.
These particular ones are branded "Razar" but I have seen them branded about 8 different ways, hence why I called them generic Chinese. I think with Christmas discount, extra discount and discount for the hell of it they were about 230 quid for a set of 8. You can pay that or more for one "proper" Damascus steel Japanese chef's knife, probably made in the same factory.
I will try and re-handle some of the other knives we like though, maybe not identically but similar style.
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Aww thanks for that. I may end up with a setI wish! No, the knives came up on faceache just before Christmas, I tentatively put them in the basket, then left them there as I thought they were a tad too expensive for a tight Yorkshireman. But I was having a problem with a final pressie for the wife, so when they sent me a message with an extra 20% off I thought sod it.
These particular ones are branded "Razar" but I have seen them branded about 8 different ways, hence why I called them generic Chinese. I think with Christmas discount, extra discount and discount for the hell of it they were about 230 quid for a set of 8. You can pay that or more for one "proper" Damascus steel Japanese chef's knife, probably made in the same factory.
I will try and re-handle some of the other knives we like though, maybe not identically but similar style.
. I love them and the whole resin things. Looks great!
brewdexta
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I was going to cut a square out of the back of the knife insert for a tin of these, the knives are much sharper than the outgoing ones, the old ones were some horrible stainless that didn't take a good edge no matter how you sharpened them. I may still do it if the tin is small enough.
Cheers
Andy
Cheers
Andy
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How thick can your table cut?
Dr.Al
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Made myself an oak (ridiculous I know, but it's what I've got) back-to-front overdesigned bench hook:
The right-hand end is use with backless Japanese (pull) saws - either in the slot, which is the width of my Japanese saw's kerf or on the end (which has magnets glued into it to keep the saw running true):
The other end also has magnets set into it but has a slightly lower top: this can be used (with the jig the other way round) with a western saw. The relieved end is to account for the back of the western tenon saw.
The T-track in the top allows me to use a stop if I want to cut multiple pieces to the same length. Probably a bit pointless; I installed the T-track as an easy way to hang it underneath my bench so it's immediately available and figured while I was at it I'd make a stop.
As with my shooting board, the "cleat/hook" on the bottom isn't actually a cleat, it's four 20 mm dowels:
Three of them go in the jaws of the vice under normal use (the vice doesn't have to be tightened) so the moving jaw of the vice counters the pulling action of the saw. Using dowels means I can put it in a different place (or turn through 90°) if I want by putting the dowels into the dog holes on the bench.
The right-hand end is use with backless Japanese (pull) saws - either in the slot, which is the width of my Japanese saw's kerf or on the end (which has magnets glued into it to keep the saw running true):
The other end also has magnets set into it but has a slightly lower top: this can be used (with the jig the other way round) with a western saw. The relieved end is to account for the back of the western tenon saw.
The T-track in the top allows me to use a stop if I want to cut multiple pieces to the same length. Probably a bit pointless; I installed the T-track as an easy way to hang it underneath my bench so it's immediately available and figured while I was at it I'd make a stop.
As with my shooting board, the "cleat/hook" on the bottom isn't actually a cleat, it's four 20 mm dowels:
Three of them go in the jaws of the vice under normal use (the vice doesn't have to be tightened) so the moving jaw of the vice counters the pulling action of the saw. Using dowels means I can put it in a different place (or turn through 90°) if I want by putting the dowels into the dog holes on the bench.
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What size t slot stuff do you use? I was looking at buying some to make a mini router table.
Dr.Al
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I've got two different types in various places. The normal stuff I use is 19.05 mm (3/4") wide, but for the cross-cut sled on my table saw I used some dovetail-shaped stuff as the wood is quite thin and there wasn't much room left for decent length screws: I figured the dovetail would help hold it in place.
I got it all from Axminster (here and here) but I think there are much cheaper options available.
Brad93
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15mm Kim.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Welded up the ramp I cut on the plasma yesterday.
First side done.
Other done.
Boat wasn't ready for me to start so I cut this up on the plasma.
Tacked together.
Fully welded and hosetail fitted.
Filled with water to test for leaks, there were none
Hose connected and sitting in place, it is a reserve tank for the plasma table, main tank just holds enough for the level it is at now and I wanted a bit more. I tested it out and it works great, main tank fills and then flows into the small tank. Put pump on and small tank empties then the big tank.
First side done.
Other done.
Boat wasn't ready for me to start so I cut this up on the plasma.
Tacked together.
Fully welded and hosetail fitted.
Filled with water to test for leaks, there were none
Hose connected and sitting in place, it is a reserve tank for the plasma table, main tank just holds enough for the level it is at now and I wanted a bit more. I tested it out and it works great, main tank fills and then flows into the small tank. Put pump on and small tank empties then the big tank.
Fraserb
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Cuthy246
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Filling?
Fraserb
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Mince, onion and potato.
Cuthy246
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Lovely
