Hefty looking gearwheel that John, Is it off a steam traction device?
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doubleboost
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Yes Fowler traction engine
The gear is new the fork 100 years or so old
Morrisman
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I made this, a rusty mess, dug out from behind a leaking core plug in my Essex motor...
I then took all four accessible ones out and dug/washed a load more out, then used a stick magnet to get the rest out. Rust is magnetic, you know.
I then took all four accessible ones out and dug/washed a load more out, then used a stick magnet to get the rest out. Rust is magnetic, you know.
Olderisbetter
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Can you get brass core plugs to stop the decay?
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Plan A.
Tidy Play Pen (On Going).
That was todays plan.
But this old Bulb Planters Trowel just kept getting in the way.;
So, to stop it getting in the way.
So I took it to bits. To get it ready to be cleaned up.
The steel was boiled up in Citric acid and cleaned with a scouring pad and metal polish.
Traditionally the metal should be painted.
Back in the day of big potting shed and green houses the colour dictated the job they were for. But there was no set stanadard.
The paint on the handle is a pain to remove. Machine sanding just spreads it, solvents just makes it soak into the handle. Only to seep out when a solvent stain is applied.
This was, back in the day, to stop them being "liberated" and sold on.
The old animal glue was removed by a scraper and a burr.
Back together.
Handle glued on with animal glue, the tin holds the old strong stuff. The handle is stained from use.
The blade was warmed and dipped into wax and buffed up.
The trowel is a nice old tool, almost a toy.
The steel is very good.
Tidy Play Pen (On Going).
That was todays plan.
But this old Bulb Planters Trowel just kept getting in the way.;
So, to stop it getting in the way.
So I took it to bits. To get it ready to be cleaned up.
The steel was boiled up in Citric acid and cleaned with a scouring pad and metal polish.
Traditionally the metal should be painted.
Back in the day of big potting shed and green houses the colour dictated the job they were for. But there was no set stanadard.
The paint on the handle is a pain to remove. Machine sanding just spreads it, solvents just makes it soak into the handle. Only to seep out when a solvent stain is applied.
This was, back in the day, to stop them being "liberated" and sold on.
The old animal glue was removed by a scraper and a burr.
Back together.
Handle glued on with animal glue, the tin holds the old strong stuff. The handle is stained from use.
The blade was warmed and dipped into wax and buffed up.
The trowel is a nice old tool, almost a toy.
The steel is very good.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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The rusty sludge is from the inside of the block.
Brass plugs will not stop it.
But on an open engine like they can be polished up and look nice.
anto44
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Might be worth getting the power washer in through the holes and give it a good blast out while the plugs are out, even a garden hose would do.I made this, a rusty mess, dug out from behind a leaking core plug in my Essex motor...
I then took all four accessible ones out and dug/washed a load more out, then used a stick magnet to get the rest out. Rust is magnetic, you know.
View attachment 269889 View attachment 269890 View attachment 269891
It's an awesome looking car
james butler
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evans waterless coolant stops it and doesnt pressurise either as its got a much higher boiling point, great for classics
only down side...... when i bought some it was £12 a litre
Memmeddu
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Made a friend Happy this morning .
I've managed to make work again his big three phase 3hp radial arm saw .
Rewired from Y 380V to ∆ 220V configuration
Replaced wire harnesses , swapped the contactor with a 230V coil one
Used a 50μF run cap directly connected to the motor (so it will discharge once stopped the motor ) .
Started it up and tested it on some scrap wood .
It works ,my friend is happy , and I'm always happy when I work on three phase stuff .
Something to say it practically have soft start.
Being the capacitor always connected to the motor it requires time to charge (being practically shorted) , which translated in the motor starting slowly needing 10 seconds to reach full speed from completely stopped.
I've managed to make work again his big three phase 3hp radial arm saw .
Rewired from Y 380V to ∆ 220V configuration
Replaced wire harnesses , swapped the contactor with a 230V coil one
Used a 50μF run cap directly connected to the motor (so it will discharge once stopped the motor ) .
Started it up and tested it on some scrap wood .
It works ,my friend is happy , and I'm always happy when I work on three phase stuff .
Something to say it practically have soft start.
Being the capacitor always connected to the motor it requires time to charge (being practically shorted) , which translated in the motor starting slowly needing 10 seconds to reach full speed from completely stopped.
zx9
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Reminds me of when the Escort froze up one winter, which core plug did it pop you ask? The one behind the flywheelI made this, a rusty mess, dug out from behind a leaking core plug in my Essex motor...
I then took all four accessible ones out and dug/washed a load more out, then used a stick magnet to get the rest out. Rust is magnetic, you know.
View attachment 269889 View attachment 269890 View attachment 269891
that was fun changing in the car park of the flats we lived in at the time.Funny how the gearbox was much heavier going back in than it was coming out, and before you ask I was younger and topped up with water not pre mixed coolant back then, not something I do now, lesson learned.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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This bread knife handle was a bit warped due to being put into the dishwasher by the in inlaws.
So I decided to have a bit of a play.
First take to bits.
And use the handle as a template on some burr oak. Both sides come from the same piece sliced down the middle.
Then cut it out and glue to the blade with epoxy. I did consider using brass pins through the handle too, but the holes in the existing blade are not in the ideal position and the steel proved a pig to drill.
Then sand to somewhere close to finished shape with power file and a sanding block.
I'm quite pleased with the outcome so far. It's very comfortable in the hand.
Burr oak can be a bit delicate in places, and there's a couple of chips in it and quite a few small knot holes so the next job is to stabilise it with some more epoxy, this time using thin slow setting casting resin with a bit of a tint. I'll do that later tonight when I'm mixing some more for the chess board.
Cheers
Andy
So I decided to have a bit of a play.
First take to bits.
And use the handle as a template on some burr oak. Both sides come from the same piece sliced down the middle.
Then cut it out and glue to the blade with epoxy. I did consider using brass pins through the handle too, but the holes in the existing blade are not in the ideal position and the steel proved a pig to drill.
Then sand to somewhere close to finished shape with power file and a sanding block.
I'm quite pleased with the outcome so far. It's very comfortable in the hand.
Burr oak can be a bit delicate in places, and there's a couple of chips in it and quite a few small knot holes so the next job is to stabilise it with some more epoxy, this time using thin slow setting casting resin with a bit of a tint. I'll do that later tonight when I'm mixing some more for the chess board.
Cheers
Andy
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
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One sacrificial ring spanner and some cutting, shaping, drilling, tapping and laughably strong magnets later we have some new and very ergonomic MIG and TIG torch stands;
EddyP
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Brilliant idea! Going to have to copy that!
Ashley Burton
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@Tangledfeet I hope they were extras! 
EddyP
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Made a mess washing the under side of the TVR, getting it ready to satin black and flow coat the manky bits before putting it back on the chassis.
Done a bit of 3D printing to tidy up my Milwaukee batts and mounted the chargers on the door to free up some more storage space.
Done a bit of 3D printing to tidy up my Milwaukee batts and mounted the chargers on the door to free up some more storage space.
Tangledfeet
Think outside, no box required.
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Cheers but can't claim it was my idea, I recall seeing (soshul meeja I think) someone do it for a MIG torch so thought I'd have a go for both MIG and TIG.
@Tangledfeet I hope they were extras!
Nah, bought a cheap ring spanner on eBay! Worked well as one end was ideal for MIG, the other for TIG.
Agroshield
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You might need to go easy with the TIG one lest any rough treatment damage the cup. You could maybe have the same concept but with a bent open-ended spanner supporting the rubber shaft just below the torch head. This would work no matter what size or style of cup you have on.
