selectedgrub
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- Thread starter God mode restorations
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Barking Mat
Cuddler of hedgehogs.
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mr migwire
It's more fun with metal.
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bet they have a terrier
slim_boy_fat
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Just got a chance this p.m. to have a quick look at the problem. The end-mill wasn't the sharpest tool in the box, a bit like myself here
. Changed it for a new one, then looked at the test work piece which was flat on the back but I cleaned it up anyway.Then refitted it all, but braced against the raised lip at the rear of the chuck. Took a cut on the Y axis and it went well, so I reversed and lowered the cutter by the same amount. I hadn't got far [pic tomorrow] when it started to move & cut at a skew again.
Luckily at that point I got interrupted by a neighbour so quit for the afternoon. Frustration is the name of the game
. I may end up using the chuck on the pillar drill if I can't work out what's going on - if I use a traditional vise the mill performs as it should......
Common round these parts,iirc,the previous dwellers in 2002,may have asked for this on the other 2 I did,I like to divide the height into thirds for proportion.glad you like it.
brightspark
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start mine off in the lathe chuck and shove the tailstock up against the die and wind it on a bit or do them on the bench drill in the vice and pull the chuck down on the die
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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Got a bit more done, I should have finished the oak surround but had a couple of beers after work, I don't mix beer and machinery. Makes the beer taste funny 
I'm under orders to go sledging and walk the dog tomorrow but should be able to cut and glue the last bit of oak and make a start on the walnut edging.
I'm under orders to go sledging and walk the dog tomorrow but should be able to cut and glue the last bit of oak and make a start on the walnut edging.
Agroshield
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When you install it in the collet, push the shoulder tight up against the face of the collet (rest it on a piece of wood and gentle pressure on the quill when tightening the closing nut). That way you will achieve a small degree of face contact and extra stiffness. You might need a small relief where the shank turns into the shoulder. Possibly bore it out and internally thread so it screws onto the outside of the ER holder, in place of the nut.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
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Well the gear in Delrin turned out ok apart from the 2 degrees are in the wrong direction 
Pics anyway as I will make another one and do it right this time!
The
apart from the 2 degrees are in the wrong direction Pics anyway as I will make another one and do it right this time!
The
slim_boy_fat
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Today's follow up to post # 14252.
First one, the yellow track is the first [straight], then the red which is deeper and shows the skew
So, turned the work-piece over this morning and cut this, taking three x lesser cuts
Then, dropped the cutter and produced this on the same track - at the end I turned left and moved along the X axis in a oner, and this is the result - well pleased now. The depth of cut ended up at 1.9mm [a random test depth]
So, the answer to the problem? 1. Ensure your cutters are sharp 2. Lock off the Z axis while milling 3. Learn patience, and feed appropriate to the job - material/cutter size, type etc. 4. Repeat the foregoing 5. Use lube 
[behave, now...
]
All fairly basic stuff really, and some schoolboy errors compounding the problems.
Happy days, I'll have more confidence in what I'm attempting now - although I never had any problems with a work-piece firmly clamped in a machine vise.
First one, the yellow track is the first [straight], then the red which is deeper and shows the skew
So, turned the work-piece over this morning and cut this, taking three x lesser cuts
Then, dropped the cutter and produced this on the same track - at the end I turned left and moved along the X axis in a oner, and this is the result - well pleased now. The depth of cut ended up at 1.9mm
[a random test depth]So, the answer to the problem? 1. Ensure your cutters are sharp 2. Lock off the Z axis while milling
3. Learn patience, and feed appropriate to the job - material/cutter size, type etc. 4. Repeat the foregoing 5. Use lube [behave, now...]All fairly basic stuff really, and some schoolboy errors compounding the problems
.Happy days, I'll have more confidence in what I'm attempting now - although I never had any problems with a work-piece firmly clamped in a machine vise.
mtt.tr
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Today's follow up to post # 14252.
First one, the yellow track is the first [straight], then the red which is deeper and shows the skew
View attachment 269635
So, turned the work-piece over this morning and cut this, taking three x lesser cuts
View attachment 269636
Then, dropped the cutter and produced this on the same track - at the end I turned left and moved along the X axis in a oner, and this is the result - well pleased now. The depth of cut ended up at 1.9mm
View attachment 269637
So, the answer to the problem? 1. Ensure your cutters are sharp 2. Lock off the Z axis while milling
All fairly basic stuff really, and some schoolboy errors compounding the exercise
Happy days, I'll have more confidence in what I'm attempting now - although I never had any problems with a work-piece firmly clamped in a machine vise.
No body who didnt try broke end mills or made scrap
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
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It's the youngest daughter's birthday next week. She wanted to go to an escape room, no chance of that at the moment so the eldest daughter is secretly creating one at home. But she needed 6 boxes that can be locked. After looking on the usual places, the cheapest option to get hinged boxes that are bigger than tobacco tins is to buy tea. So I ended up with 240 tea bags and 6 hinged tins.
5 have numeric locks, the 6th has a alphabetical lock. 6 cheap brass hasps and a few pop rivets later.
See, I told you I would be back on metalwork soon
Cheers
Andy
5 have numeric locks, the 6th has a alphabetical lock. 6 cheap brass hasps and a few pop rivets later.
See, I told you I would be back on metalwork soon
Cheers
Andy
DennisCA
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Patched a rust hole in the Mazda, me and my dad, he did the welding and sheet metal work, he's the better welder of us. I did the prep work and post welding stuff. Used a high zinc primer, then dinitrol ml, then the thicker stuff which will harden to an elastic layer. Still need to spray in dinitrol into the cavity behind the patch.
Hope it passes MOT
Hope it passes MOT
