Stuff you have made today

[Onoff]

I'm thinking it's time to consign this multi tool conversion to the bin (along with the failed Aldi Ferrex one) and rue the day I didn't put the £23 towards a proper Makita one! That plus the £7.95 I paid for the Ferrex...plus filament, etc. Let's not talk about the hours wasted...

The diode is kaput. Appears it was originally epoxied to the PCB maybe as half is still stuck on there.

All I can read on the half of the casing that came off is "...04 HER...":

On the plus side I practiced my CAD skills some more and spent some time with my lad 3D printing.

Thanks for accompanying me on this journey!

Edit: Diode appears to be an HER204, managed to pick a bit of the encapsulation off the diode with my nail.

Thinking then as the max forward current is 2A the 3A Makita battery might have been what killed it? May be it says what max Ah battery on the tool instructions. I never read them and now have to go hunting!

 

[Kram]

Diodes are easily replaced. Usually there for clamping motor back emf. If thats blown might need a new mosfet.

View attachment 281034

Enlarged my GF3 mini gun 1.2mm nozzle to 1.55mm. They dont make bigger nozzles, you'd normally have to use thinners or buy a full size gun. I'll be attempting this gun for primer, it seems 1.8mm is recommended but I'll test before going bigger. The OD is 2.6mm. Might not work but I dont see why it cant.

Lathe headstock stripped paint off. Suprised they face milled the casting to be square, tho its rough. Doesnt look too bad under the thick green paint.

Not quite a cockup (yet) but I had forgotten that the nozzle needs a tapered seat to match the needle. As I dont have a working lathe or anything suitable to cut taper, I thought I'd lap it using the needle and a spare. That didnt go to plan, die grinder collet is poo and it worked its way out and got me in the shoulder

No massive problem I pulled the brass collar off and will press onto the other needle which is same dia and length, and closer to the final taper size.

 

[Barking Mat]

From rusty to shiny, citric bath 3 days, and wire brushing.

 

[Onoff]

Diodes are easily replaced. Usually there for clamping motor back emf. If thats

Ta. The smallest 18V battery I have, Ah wise is 3Ah.

Amazed it still runs and at full whack with that diode gone. You'd half hope it'd fail safe. If I replace it with the same 2A forward voltage jobbie that'll blow too.

One of these maybe?

Diodes Inc Switching Diode, 6A 1000V, 2-Pin R 6 6A10-T | RS

uk.rs-online.com

Just looking for a bag to put all the bits in...

 

[Kram]

If it runs only at full speed that does mean the mosfet is blown, they usually fail shorted. In other devices where the current is not limited by a motor, they can make a very big bang.

Diode spec your looking for reverse voltage and recovery time.

Mosfet any 20A+ N type should do. If you are buying one of the switches for your drill, you could take the old mosfet from that.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This is a credit to some members here who donated, made and supplied the parts.
All I did was listen, supplied coffee, work shop and words.

I have a good friend, Dave who suffers from severe depression. So, a long time ago we found out "workshop time with TYA helps more than I can say.
It is not with out hic ups along the way.
But in my play pen we have a No telling or blaming rule.

This 2 speed Stanley Breast drill was given to me.



Complete, not rusted to the point of not working. But very stiff to operate. It was 50/50 to strip it down or try for a oil up.
But as it turns out I did neither.



So today Dave striped it down. This is the only days Decaff tea and coffee are allowed over the threshold.

Here you see it cooking up in water, washing powder. The amount of dirt, old oil and crud that is washed out is quiet shocking.
But you do need to wash and dry the parts well.



20 mm plate at 189degC will certainly help. You want it to stop steaming, but not hot enough to discolour any paint.



When it is still warm use wire wool with wax/.linseed oil mix to clean up, seal and polish up.
The wooden parts will drink it all up. Keep applying a small amount and work it well in.
This type of drill has small (2 -3mm) holes to add oil. Warm the oil up in hot water and let it drip in the holes. The work the moving parts and let the oil move its way along, refilling the oil holes as needed.
Drink coffee and listen.



Here you can see the item being oiled, worked and wax. It was still warm so the wax/oil mix came up well.



All done, all working and one Dave in a better place.

The cleaning did show something up.



Gold leaf on the makers name.
I am still looking into that, but I have a idea why.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Dave was on a roll.
He was allowed to stay on, so we carried on.



Beam Balance. Badly restored with modern paint. The top coat was thick, rubbery, but tough.
The undercoats (5) were as bad.




It laughed at paint strippers, blow torch and a few good swear words.

So, old school thinking, plus more coffee, a keen ear, the career knows me well enough to be quiet at times like this.



Boil the thing up in caustic soda, this is when things went wonky. More of that later.



It works, but again needs to be washed and dried well.
Time for pie,chips battered sausages, scraps and a pair of baps.




After lunch, setting the counter weight, I know that lumps weighs in at 56.5Lb.
The weigh needed a few bits of lead shot hammered in.

Needs a bit of trimming for the 1lb to 10lb range.



It was waxed with my hard wax mix and it came up very well.




Even the original paint fill survived in places. I suspect it is lead based, so it laughed at out effort.

 

[Onoff]

If it runs only at full speed that does mean the mosfet is blown, they usually fail shorted. In other devices where the current is not limited by a motor, they can make a very big bang.

Diode spec your looking for reverse voltage and recovery time.

Mosfet any 20A+ N type should do. If you are buying one of the switches for your drill, you could take the old mosfet from that.

There's one TO92 device between the two capacitors:

It's sat in a bed of encapsulation resin or whatever.

On the underside:

Struggling to find a data sheet for it.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Time for pie,chips battered sausages, scraps and a pair of baps.

You don't stint yourselves, do you?

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

This is another thanks to a good member here.

Today, one of my primus stoves had a sulk. It had to happen with Dave. This can tip him, but a few good words. swop out the non working one for a working one, calm was returned. Plus tea, 2 sugars and condensed milk.




Were id the rest go?
This is the pump rod, but no cup washer.
No it is not in the pump body.

But the tools and the leather, plus cake we made this.





It is still damp. We cheated, made the leather soft in warm cooking oil, used a mould and dried it on a stove.




All good.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Those recent post of mine could only be done with help from members here.

To them.
Thank you.

 

[Morrisman]

I made a ‘Nerf’ bar for the hot rod.

I toyed with the idea of welding an old adjustable spanner on top, so tailgaters would think it was forgotten about and going to fall off in their path.....

.....but I’d probably have no end of good kindly folk flashing and beeping to tel me about it.....

Be nice to get it chromed, or zinc plated.... but it’ll probably end up in black Hammerite.

Not too far off MOT time, if I can grow a pair enough to take that first intrepid drive.....

 

[Kram]

There's one TO92 device between the two capacitors:

View attachment 281240

It's sat in a bed of encapsulation resin or whatever.

On the underside:

View attachment 281241

Struggling to find a data sheet for it.

Cant find a datasheet but its SG30N06D to replace, any 20A+ N channel mosfet will do, to-252 package, the tab will be drain as theres no middle leg.

Working gun. Used a silverflo 55 rod, much easier this time, using easyflo 2 flux. My problems last time may have been the wrong flux.

 

[Onoff]

Cant find a datasheet but its SG30N06D to replace, any 20A+ N channel mosfet will do, to-252 package, the tab will be drain as theres no middle leg.

Ta. So you reckon chuck a new MOSFET in and a bigger diode?

 

[Kram]

Yes should fix it.

 

[Onoff]

Yes should fix it.

Cheers. One of these maybe?

 

[Kram]

6A8 or 6A10 Id guess. Diode shouldnt stop the speed control working, its really there to protect the mosfet and battery more than anything.

 

[Hood]

Came down to the workshop this evening and got the ends of the handrails done. Don't have M4 countersunk screws here so just fitted some cap screws at the moment. The M6 capscrews will likely just stay, could make up wee handles but that is time and time is money so if they are happy with them that will do.

Vid of it in action, very exciting

 

[Onoff]

6A8 or 6A10 Id guess. Diode shouldnt stop the speed control working, its really there to protect the mosfet and battery more than anything.

Ta. Going to sound dense here but what makes the 6A8 / 10 potentially suitable?

Cheers

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Be nice to get it chromed, or zinc plated.... but it’ll probably end up in black Hammerite.

Please, nooooo. Then it'll disappear into the general colour scheme at any distance and be less of a 'feature'.....imho of course.