Stuff you have made today

[Blue Chips]

This is just a part of today, i haven't needed to cut a squinted scarf for a very long time mostly joists are just bolted with a splint.

I love joinery like that. Some of the sill beams in the old house that my wife and I have been gradually restoring over the past several years have identical joints.

 

[mtt.tr]

I love joinery like that. Some of the sill beams in the old house that my wife and I have been gradually restoring over the past several years have identical joints.

About 4 years ago on my previous house i redid all of the soleplates and 2 main beams.

Was horrible sleeping upstairs knowing your house is just resting on some acrows.



This is the beam raised. Every stud had to be repaired.

 

[Blue Chips]

This is the beam raised. Every stud had to be repaired.

It sounds like we have (or had) some similar projects. It looks like your house may be older than ours, which was built ca. 1797-1805. A previous owner had done some structural repairs, but I had to re-do several of them, in addition to carrying out a bunch of repairs that he apparently didn't feel inclined to tackle. The "heavy" stuff is done now, but we have a lot of interior finish work still ahead of us.

 

[My Old Landy]

I finished the press tool sheet bender. It works a treat so I am very happy
I welded the top boss to the top V. Not bad for 0.6 wire and 80/20 gas set to full blast

I set a magnet into the boss to retain it on the press:

Set up ready to go:

Result

 

[Agroshield]

I love joinery like that.

https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/wp-content/uploads/2004-08.pdf

 

[mtt.tr]

https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/wp-content/uploads/2004-08.pdf

I have a book rather similar bought for me by my good friend and historic architect

 

[Blue Chips]

https://www.ncptt.nps.gov/wp-content/uploads/2004-08.pdf

Thanks for the link. I actually have pretty much all of the NPS restoration and conservation documents. That particular document is a good reference. Our restoration project house is a Federal Period center-chimney cape with an ell, although it differs somewhat from the more typical designs in some respects. For example, the stairway to the upstairs rooms is in the ell (which contained the kitchen), rather than winding around the central fireplace core. The house originally served as the parsonage for the old meetinghouse (Congregational church) in Alna, Maine, which is on the National Register of Historic Places. I've done quite a number of repairs to the original joinery as well as replacing various structural elements, trying to be as authentic as possible/practical, including the use of correct nails, rough-sawn lumber, adzed beams, pegged joints, etc., etc. Duplicating the original plaster work, clapboard siding with scarf joints, stone masonry, brick work, etc., has also been challenging and educational. I have lots of photos, but since most of it is past work, they might not be appropriate for this thread.

 

[MattF]

but since most of it is past work, they might not be appropriate for this thread.

You could start a thread about it.

 

[Blue Chips]

You could start a thread about it.

I just might do that at some point in the near future.

 

[Kram]

Started with filler

Todays attempt at primer did not go well, some part of my gf3 was blocked, didnt realise and got some massive runs.
Swaped to the r150. This happens

Drips. Took me a few seconds to notice it was bubbling out of the paint pot. Nozzle seal leaking air The recessed curve is going to be a pain to sand out.
Swapped seal and continued, the rest went ok.

*If* I manage to flat without sanding through then I should be able to get some black on tomorrow.

 

[Dr.Al]

Knobs

 

[Onoff]

A workmate has a proper bar in his garden. Bar, slot machines, pool table, dart board etc. His missus bought him a brass & ceramic pump handle to mount on the bar. He wanted a "bit of hardwood" as a plinth. Off I went to my friendly DIY saw mill neighbour and got a chunk of beech with nice grain:

These are rough just to see if he likes the idea.

 

[Brad93]

Lorch S3 throwing down some nice beads. Shame I’ve warped the base plate into a banana despite clamping it down. More packers required to preset it! The next two I will try back to back but it won’t be easy doing the gussets.

edit: I should add the base plate is 400x400x15 and the vertical Piece is 800x200x15

 

[Maker]

Knobs

View attachment 286208

Bloody good knurl on those, maybe there is something to matching matching diameter to the pitch.

 

[Guzrik]

Finally I've something to post that's welded.

I use the word in the loosest possible sense. Welding has improved but my grinding has come on by leaps and bounds

View attachment 285849

It's a stand for my mill/drill. It only took me two days.

Maybe you want to ad a diagonal in somewhere, I have a somewhat ligther one that came with my mill and it sways when I use it. Anoying.

 

[Seadog]

None needed. It's as solid as a rock. 50mm RHS with full length welds on all joints (well, I call them welds )

 

[selectedgrub]

Hi guys, still bored waiting for something I'm not paying for but I did do the top cable stay.
One more to do, I might thread it through the backing plate.

 

[Dr.Al]

Bloody good knurl on those, maybe there is something to matching matching diameter to the pitch.

Thanks @Maker. I keep thinking I'll do some tests to see how much of a difference it makes, but I've always got something better to do! Whenever I'm making a part I care about, I figure that it's so easy to match the diameter and (particularly if I've already invested some time in machining other aspects of the part) seems safer to just to do it; the results pretty much always look like they did on those knobs.

For most parts that I make, I reckon it adds less than 30 seconds onto the time it takes me to make the part (stop the lathe, measure the OD, bung the number in the calculator, move the cross slide in by the appropriate amount, start the lathe and take a skim cut).

 

[winchman]

This is just a part of today, i haven't needed to cut a squinted scarf for a very long time mostly joists are just bolted with a splint.

View attachment 285963

But because it was at home and i could i did.

Thats excellent and some thing winch boy needs to learn to repair his timbers

 

[Dr.Al]

I often find that, when I'm working at the woodworking bench, I need somewhere to put stuff down temporarily. Some of the time I can put things down on one end of the bench while I'm working at the other end, but my bench isn't very long and if the thing I'm working on is large, I quickly run out of space.

In an attempt to overcome that issue, today I made a shelf.

Made out of (and dimensioned based on) what I had: some 750 mm lengths of 3030 extrusion, some angle iron, some chopping board and the last bit of plywood I had.

The plywood is not permanently attached to the rails - it slides on:

The slidey rails were made out an old chopping board (which I'd cut up a year or so ago but still had some bits left). I shaped them with the router:

When not in use (and this is quite important), the table slides off easily and can be propped against the wall. The supports pivot up and are held in place with some magnets:

Crude, but effective.

The reason I can't raise the whole shelf with the plywood attached is that my clamps would get in the way:

The reason it has to lift up is that otherwise I wouldn't be able to get the motorbike in and out:

What it will look like most of the time:

The idea is that stuff that is actively in use goes on there (nothing permanent) and hence the shelf is mostly empty (so I can get the bike out quickly!). I guess worst case, I can always slide the shelf off with the contents still on and put the shelf + contents on the main bench when I want to take the motorbike out.

I'm not sure Treacle approves:

If you ever in any doubt about how little space I've got left in my workshop, I hope this shows how desperate I am for every little bit of space!