Stuff you have made today

[Kram]

Lots more decorating, almost done, but only have a few days as carpet is being fitted.

Bandsaw some plate
View attachment 308337
Tried the big slugger, no chance. Too many flutes or blunt? Just got lots of chatter, belt slipping and a million tiny splinters!
View attachment 308338
View attachment 308339
The baby 26mm went through nicely.

View attachment 308340
First one roughed out.

Next part, a blank for the test thread.

I made a cockup of doing the thread in just three passes! 1.0mm, then 1.6mm and last 2.0mm (diameter), the last chattered badly. I assumed I still had 0.8mm to go!
Turned it by hand to get rid of chatter marking, 1 wire measured 54.35mm and should be 54.21. Set a spring cut at 2.0mm lots more chatter. Turned by hand but most of the chatter marks remain. 54.19mm
Swapped chuck and turned the OD of the nut blank, and started threading.

This time I followed the SEC threading pdf guide that I printed and stuck on the wall, thanks @Agroshield . It got me very close at 1.78mm diameter, 1.82mm got a nice fitting thread.

 

[selectedgrub]

Been a productive day.
Among other things I laser cut a oval hole in a piece of plate so a piece of tube could sit at an angle.

I found this handy little program to type in to my machine.

Oval Templates for Angled Pipe Through Sheeting - Metric

Calculate and print full scale oval templates to cut sheeting for pipes at angle - Metric

www.blocklayer.com

Not really worth a picture but the program is cool.

 

[Brad93]

I'd lose the slot below the A and also the E. And move centre line of anvil body so it aligns with the centre of the arc.

The slot below the A and the E didn't come out right for some reason, probably because I scaled the sign down.

it's meant to show the surface height of the bic and the heel. It doesn't look right without something there.

the shape of the anvil is also taken from a specific anvil so changing the centreline would not be true to the actual anvil. No anvil is symmetrical.

 

[Agroshield]

...have 3 slots cut to make them spring collets. Heat treatment will have to wait...

You might know this already but I understand it is good practice to leave a small part of the slot uncut/intact before heat treatment and then grind it out with a slitting wheel afterwards. Supposed to stop it distorting/moving during the heat treatment.

 

[Munkul]

Next part, a blank for the test thread.

I made a cockup of doing the thread in just three passes! 1.0mm, then 1.6mm and last 2.0mm (diameter), the last chattered badly. I assumed I still had 0.8mm to go!
Turned it by hand to get rid of chatter marking, 1 wire measured 54.35mm and should be 54.21. Set a spring cut at 2.0mm lots more chatter. Turned by hand but most of the chatter marks remain. 54.19mm

I'd be going in 0.2mm increments at that point, no wonder it chattered. You're going straight in so cutting on both flanks. The diameter is huge so no problems with workpiece rigidity, but your lathe will be the weak link.
If I tried those same cuts on my M400 it would manage no problem at that diameter, but on a small piece with deflection I'd get the same result as you.
TL;DR: use smaller cuts

I also use a thread file to tidy up poor threads by hand I have some particularly gummy black bar that makes nasty threads, a few times going over with thread file at low RPM tidies them right up.

 

[JMS1972]

You might know this already but I understand it is good practice to leave a small part of the slot uncut/intact before heat treatment and then grind it out with a slitting wheel afterwards. Supposed to stop it distorting/moving during the heat treatment.

I noticed some of the smaller collets have slits which are cut in two widths, thinner in the clamping part.
I wonder if that is the reason?

I'll not be able to heat treat it for a while so they will be used soft until I get an oven sorted (have the bits just need to get on with it).

Was thinking of clamping a slightly oversized bit of bar in the business end during heating so it springs outwards? Someone posted a drawing of a collet recently and it seemed to suggest 1/32"....

It's not something I've researched though. These are just for hobby use so unhardened will probably be okay.

 

[Nick DV]

It will need 1 fold, 1 step and a curve

I'm sure that recently one of Fitzee's videos on Y/T shows this type of fold.

 

[Kram]

I'd be going in 0.2mm increments at that point, no wonder it chattered. You're going straight in so cutting on both flanks. The diameter is huge so no problems with workpiece rigidity, but your lathe will be the weak link.
If I tried those same cuts on my M400 it would manage no problem at that diameter, but on a small piece with deflection I'd get the same result as you.
TL;DR: use smaller cuts

I also use a thread file to tidy up poor threads by hand I have some particularly gummy black bar that makes nasty threads, a few times going over with thread file at low RPM tidies them right up.

I'd normally be going in 0.04-0.08mm off the diameter near the end of a thread.
I think the chatter was from the full profile insert bottoming out plus a bit.
I may rethink if I continue using them over AG60's - that wouldnt have chattered but instead cut the thread under.

 

[JMS1972]

Today I made a bin full of swarf. It was a lovely blue/brown colour though.

Magnetic shield was directing most if it away from me.

I was using the KW meter on the VFD to maximize productivity

Oh and a couple more collets appeared before it got too hot to be in the workshop.

 

[Agroshield]

Was thinking of clamping a slightly oversized bit of bar in the business end during heating so it springs outwards? Someone posted a drawing of a collet recently and it seemed to suggest 1/32"....

Closing up during or after heat treatment is a lot worse than opening up as you then cannot get your nominal diameter stock into your shiny new collet. So, maybe better advice is simply that: do something to prevent it closing up. If the slots are already made, you could shim them. I think I saw a Rob Renz. video where he poked O-ring cord into his collet slots to ease and speed up stock entry.

I saw the 1/32" that you mention. It seems a little large to me. That is more of an ER collet range and their construction is very different. Maybe it was empirically-derived: if we stretch it that much before HT, it ends up correct afterwards (c.f. what you have to do to home-made cast iron piston rings). The amount may also depend on the closing mechanism and maybe the taper angle of the collet. For the popular 5C collet, I think it is reasonably easy to find out how much under and over nominal they will grip. For other types, this info. might be harder to find.

 

[Munkul]

Reassembled the slew jib after paint (a particularly horrible paint job by myself being lazy with wrong airless nozzles, best not get any closeups)
Took levels and made spacers to suit.
Fitted some columns. Removed one for some rework.
We'll get on a lot better tomorrow hopefully now the prep work is done and we got the inevitable screw-up out of the way early. Hopefully the one and only...

 

[Brad93]

Got this stuck on the wall the other day to organise some keys

finish is beeswax&linseed oil after heating with oxy acetylene

 

[nickk]

Handrail posts,to go down into walls,25 square.

 

[Onoff]

A shaft for my gate rollers out of a bit of cement covered M16 stainless stud, it won't win the turner prize...3 more to go:

 

[Brad93]

A shaft for my gate rollers out of a bit of cement covered M16 stainless stud, it won't win the turner prize...3 more to go:

View attachment 308590

Ours needs the same I think, gate guy was saying something about a shaft

 

[Onoff]

Ours needs the same I think, gate guy was saying something about a shaft

Barrier Components at Purfleet do a good range of gate stuff. Got my track from them. They may do rollers too...

Think I got my lower rollers from Easygates when I got the rest of the sliding gate kit.

It's the top rollers I lashed up are the issue...

 

[nickk]

Knocked this Victorian style grate up this am,easy as I’d done almost identical 2 years ago.

 

[My Old Landy]

Knocked this Victorian style grate up this am,easy as I’d done almost identical 2 years ago.View attachment 308603View attachment 308604

That is really cool

 

[Dcal]

Knocked this Victorian style grate up this am,easy as I’d done almost identical 2 years ago.View attachment 308603View attachment 308604

Nice job.
If you could get some stainless bar it would last far longer, but a few hours every two years is no big deal.

 

[Onoff]

Knocked this Victorian style grate up this am,easy as I’d done almost identical 2 years ago.View attachment 308603View attachment 308604

That looks...grate...