Stuff you have made today

[Gragson]

Today I made warmth,

Yeah I bet you got warm doing all that !

 

[Maker]

A pair of the quickest, easiest, lowest profile curtain pole brackets I could come up with. Turned on each end of some 40mm delrin, over to the mill to take off half the protruding section, then back to the lathe to part off.




I don't want to hear "i WoulD hAvE jUsT 3d pRiNtEd tHeM"

 

[Dr.Al]

Lots of bits:

All extremely precisely sized to suit the material I had in the scrap bin

Having acquired a couple of router planes a few days ago, I wasn't looking forward to sorting out the cutters that came with them, all of which were very wonky (only one corner of the cutter touching down when lowered onto a flat surface). It's not that hard to do by hand, but I had four of them to do and decided to have a go at making a simple jig. This is what I came up with:

Depending on the angle it's set to, it can either be used for hollow grinding the bottom (which can then be quickly sharpened on a stone):

Or it can be used for flat grinding the bevel:

Works like a charm.

 

[MattF]

That looks bloody lovely.

 

[bricol]

I don't want to hear "i WoulD hAvE jUsT 3d pRiNtEd tHeM"

I get that a lot from some people at work . . . the choice between 14 hrs of a printer that might, or might not, print something that's nearly to the dimensions, nearly round, nearly square, not even near to being as strong . . . or someon machining something in next to no time that does exactly what you want it to do . . .

 

[MattF]

It's been a ballache to make the ¼" hex in these, but got there eventually.



6.5mm hole, & then used this to make the hex.



They're holders for the 18V flexiclick heads. Can't use the same method as I did for the 12V heads, as there's no flange/step, so went with these for the drive hex on the heads to slot into.





They've taken a lot longer to make than I hoped/expected, but they're made now.

 

[Maker]

It's been a ballache to make the ¼" hex in these, but got there eventually.

View attachment 373606

6.5mm hole, & then used this to make the hex.

View attachment 373607

They're holders for the 18V flexiclick heads. Can't use the same method as I did for the 12V heads, as there's no flange/step, so went with these for the drive hex on the heads to slot into.

View attachment 373608

View attachment 373609

They've taken a lot longer to make than I hoped/expected, but they're made now.

Am I missing something, why not just drill 7mm or so to clear the points on the hex?

 

[MattF]

Am I missing something, why not just drill 7mm or so to clear the points on the hex?

Tried that first off. Not as secure a grip as I'd like.

Besides, where's the fun in doing something that simply?

 

[Dcal]

Today I made a clamp to join the flue pipe on a new to me stove.
This one has a boiler that can be used with a pressurised system so thought I'd give it a go.
The welding on it is atrocious but that's for another thread (and I forgot to take photos)

It requires a few more bends than the old one and as I don't like the thin vitreous enamel pipes bends I used 5 inch 1/4 inch wall steel pipe that I had kicking about.

Decided to put a joint in it so I could remove the lower section for cleaning and so it wouldn't be so dam heavy.

Old stove had a rear connection.



New one has a top connection which requires another 3inch kink.
I could have made the step where it went through the wall but that would have been impossible to get into my wee bandsaw so harder to get just right.



Instead I decided to make a join about here.



Started with the same 5 inch pipe.
Cut a slice in half and beat it to shape on my LAMBCO ™ number two anvil. (The photo reminds me, I really need to get it properly fitted to stump and give it a coat of something to stop it rusting.)



Then clamped it around the pipe with some 0.8 mm steel packers to give a bit of space and cut a filler piece to size.



For the clamp I welded a small piece of thin stainless to the inside of the pipe with 309 rod so it would overlap the split in the clamp.



Then drilled some flat bar for m8 bolts and tapped one side so I could expand the clamp for easy installation and removal and welded it together.



Ground the inside welds flush and this part of the job is done.

 

[Dcal]

Tried that first off. Not as secure a grip as I'd like.

Besides, where's the fun in doing something that simply?

I can relate to that.

 

[northwest]

Finished shuffling the Hi-Fi about in the office, much better now:

View attachment 372262


Yes, almost everywhere there is a gun or two.

Decided to re-shuffle the shuffling, as it were:




Can you tell I like Quad Amps?

 

[MattF]

Am I missing something, why not just drill 7mm or so to clear the points on the hex?

To expand on the ballache part, creating the hex was easy. Getting it to a suitable fit stage, however, was the prolonged part. That "broach" is obviously mainly displacing, rather than cutting, & all hex shanks aren't created equal. Some are a slip fit, some are an overly snug fit, so getting it to the stage where the heads shank slid in, rather than requiring it to be forced in, took a while.

I tested them with various bits/shanks occasionally, and there is notable, (although minute), variation between various ¼" shank diameters.

 

[MattF]

Decided to re-shuffle the shuffling, as it were:

View attachment 373644


Can you tell I like Quad Amps?

Would never have guessed.

 

[Dcal]

Decided to re-shuffle the shuffling, as it were:

View attachment 373644


Can you tell I like Quad Amps?

Very nice, they would go well with my 57-ELSs

 

[northwest]

Very nice, they would go well with my 57-ELSs

The problem with the electrostatics are their sixe, Me had just been refurbed by One Thing Audio and I gave them away.

 

[Dcal]

That's true and they need a bit of room behind them.
I'm lucky I've a decent sized room (5x8m) and have them sited on the short wall firing down the room.

 

[tommy_lad]

Made this for the annual local rugby teams awards presentation, used mates machines and knowledge so strictly not 100% mine but enjoyed making it

 

[DAPPH]

A whole day overtime on this one. 6 days on the tiling.

Odd size tiles that don't divide well.
Extremely brittle. Won't dry cut so every cut on the bridge saw.
Only have to look at them for them to chip. Even pulling out a tight spacers did it for them.

And the plasterer obviously didn't have a level straightedge or square just to make a difficult job harder.
Only 2 full tiles. Everything else is cuts

View attachment 373415 View attachment 373416 View attachment 373417 View attachment 373418 View attachment 373419 View attachment 373420 View attachment 373421

We have tiling like that in our wet room of almost identical colour & finish.
I guillotined loads of fairly thick solid cardboard into inch by half inch strips for the tiler to use as spacers instead of the plastic stuff, it worked well .

Pity he didn't evenly spread the tile adhesive evenly over the nicely flat finished walls as in several places there is 1 /4 inch undulations across the wall at several tile joints

 

[DAPPH]

Insurance job. They don't want to spend their own money. That's why I have cheap crappy tiles

We took our insures up on that for our wet room and demanded equal like for like replacements & reinstatement which more than quadrupled what they initially offered as they also had to include the old floor screed & remaining tile removal as the old floor was covered in thick waterproof tiling adhesive & leveling compound as well as some of the remaining salt glazed floor tiles which wouldn't let the floor dry out.

I took advantage of that to put in an underfloor trace heat matting system before the new slightly cheaper slip resist Pilkington tiles were laid.

 

[DAPPH]

That would be me with my own kitchen. Anywhere near Milton Keynes?

Is he offering you full B&B with evening meal and as much Guinness as you can neck each day & night FOC as well as paying you for your time and travel with separation allowance thrown in for good measure?
If not tell him to shove it.