Stuff your 3D printer has made today...

[ukracer]

; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.5.0+win64 on 2023-01-23 at 12:54:14 UTC

;

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

M107M190 S75 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached;TYPE:CustomG21;metric valuesG90;absolute positioningM82;set extruder to absolute mode

M117 Homing...G28 ; home all axesM104 S252 ; begin nozzle heat upM117 Levelling...G29 ; auto levelG1 Z10 F3000 ; lift

M117 Heat extruder and wipe...G92 E0;zero the extruded lengthG1 X5 Y145M109 S252 ; await nozzle heat upM117 Wiping nozzle...G1 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y5 E33.00000 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

;Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing...G21 ; set units to millimetersG90 ; use absolute coordinatesM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusionG92 E0; Filament gcodeM107;LAYER_CHANGE;Z:0.35;HEIGHT:0.35G1 E-6.5 F4800G92 E0G1 Z.35 F7200G1 X140.444 Y130.162G1 E6.5 F4800M204 S1000;TYPE:Skirt/Brim;WIDTH:0.7G1 F1440G1 X141.659 Y129.005 E6.65256G1 X142.805 Y128.052 E6.78802G1 X144.011 Y127.171 E6.92384G1 X145.374 Y126.306 E7.07071G1 X146.684 Y125.59 E7.20637G1 X148.174 Y124.9 E7.3557G1 X149.871 Y124.258 E7.52071G1 X151.302 Y123.829 E7.65657G1 X152.9 Y123.462 E7.80564G1 X154.373 Y123.225 E7.94129G1 X155.985 Y123.072 E8.08849G1 X157.496 Y123.03 E8.22601G1 X158.964 Y123.08 E8.35951G1 X160.59 Y123.243 E8.50816G1 X162.065 Y123.49 E8.64415G1 X163.838 Y123.916 E8.80991G1 X165.401 Y124.413 E8.95905G1 X166.783 Y124.957 E9.09412G1 X169.448 Y126.306 E9.36573G1 X170.812 Y127.171 E9.5126G1 X172.018 Y128.052 E9.64841G1 X173.164 Y129.005 E9.78388G1 X174.35 Y130.132 E9.93265G1 X175.548 Y131.447 E10.09446G1 X176.478 Y132.619 E10.23049G1 X177.407 Y133.964 E10.3791G1 X178.174 Y135.248

Loads of code cut out. But the start might show something to an expert with a trained eye.

Full Gcode available on request

 

[ajlelectronics]

Full Gcode available on request

You are going all around the houses trying to do it in software. The Z offset is in the Ender configuration menu and is one entry once you have driven the head down manually in the settings to get the figure required to give the clearance.

 

[ukracer]

You are going all around the houses trying to do it in software. The Z offset is in the Ender configuration menu and is one entry once you have driven the head down manually in the settings to get the figure required to give the clearance.

I can understand that chap. what I am trying to do is learn why it works with his sliced files and not with my cura files. Then I can also edit his gcode (Prusa sliced files)

Its rather like my web site. I can pay someone to build it for me (ok it will cost money} but the main reason I wont go that route is not money but 1st I dont know what I really want from the website yet.

but 2nd if it goes wrong I wont have a scooby how to fix it.

 

[ajlelectronics]

I can understand that chap. what I am trying to do is learn why it works with his sliced files and not with my cura files. Then I can also edit his gcode (Prusa sliced files)

Its rather like my web site. I can pay someone to build it for me (ok it will cost money} but the main reason I wont go that route is not money but 1st I dont know what I really want from the website yet.

but 2nd if it goes wrong I wont have a scooby how to fix it.

That's fairy snuff, but you are trying to put a plaster over the symptoms, rather than addressing the cause. Curiosity is generally a good thing and I understand your motivation. However, do you want to faff about or use the printer?

 

[Prajna]

; generated by PrusaSlicer 2.5.0+win64 on 2023-01-23 at 12:54:14 UTC

;

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

M107M190 S75 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached;TYPE:CustomG21;metric valuesG90;absolute positioningM82;set extruder to absolute mode

M117 Homing...G28 ; home all axesM104 S252 ; begin nozzle heat upM117 Levelling...G29 ; auto levelG1 Z10 F3000 ; lift

M117 Heat extruder and wipe...G92 E0;zero the extruded lengthG1 X5 Y145M109 S252 ; await nozzle heat upM117 Wiping nozzle...G1 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y5 E33.00000 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

;Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing...G21 ; set units to millimetersG90 ; use absolute coordinatesM82 ; use absolute distances for extrusionG92 E0; Filament gcodeM107;LAYER_CHANGE;Z:0.35;HEIGHT:0.35G1 E-6.5 F4800G92 E0G1 Z.35 F7200G1 X140.444 Y130.162G1 E6.5 F4800M204 S1000;TYPE:Skirt/Brim;WIDTH:0.7G1 F1440G1 X141.659 Y129.005 E6.65256G1 X142.805 Y128.052 E6.78802G1 X144.011 Y127.171 E6.92384G1 X145.374 Y126.306 E7.07071G1 X146.684 Y125.59 E7.20637G1 X148.174 Y124.9 E7.3557G1 X149.871 Y124.258 E7.52071G1 X151.302 Y123.829 E7.65657G1 X152.9 Y123.462 E7.80564G1 X154.373 Y123.225 E7.94129G1 X155.985 Y123.072 E8.08849G1 X157.496 Y123.03 E8.22601G1 X158.964 Y123.08 E8.35951G1 X160.59 Y123.243 E8.50816G1 X162.065 Y123.49 E8.64415G1 X163.838 Y123.916 E8.80991G1 X165.401 Y124.413 E8.95905G1 X166.783 Y124.957 E9.09412G1 X169.448 Y126.306 E9.36573G1 X170.812 Y127.171 E9.5126G1 X172.018 Y128.052 E9.64841G1 X173.164 Y129.005 E9.78388G1 X174.35 Y130.132 E9.93265G1 X175.548 Y131.447 E10.09446G1 X176.478 Y132.619 E10.23049G1 X177.407 Y133.964 E10.3791G1 X178.174 Y135.248

Loads of code cut out. But the start might show something to an expert with a trained eye.

Full Gcode available on request

This is all I have in my start gcode in Prusa:

SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X-2.0 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
M109 S[first_layer_temperature]
G1 X-2.0 Y145.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X-1.7 Y145.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X-1.7 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-1.0000 F1800 ;Retract a bit
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 E0.0000 F1800

You can see that Prusa has commented all the code to say what it does. I did read that a G28 (Home) command resets the calibration/bed levelling in some printers but it doesn't seem to do so on my KE. With the above start code the behaviour is, the bed heats up; just before it reaches temperature the printer checks the Y and X end stops, then it moves to the centre of the bed and checks the Z height with the touch sensor, all the above in response to the G28, I think; then it moves over to the nozzle wipe area and waits for the extruder to get up to temperature; then it does the nozzle wipe (you can see that in the code above - the G1 "Draw 1st line" and following codes; then it prints.

If you dare to fill your brain with gcode stuff there's lots of info on what the codes do (though there is huge variation in which codes are supported by which printers, or rather, by which versions of which firmware) but it's not as scary as it looks. The code you posted is not just start code - there's lots of print code too, all the stuff that starts with G1, E7 etc.

 

[Onoff]

This is all I have in my start gcode in Prusa:

SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X-2.0 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
M109 S[first_layer_temperature]
G1 X-2.0 Y145.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X-1.7 Y145.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X-1.7 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-1.0000 F1800 ;Retract a bit
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 E0.0000 F1800

You can see that Prusa has commented all the code to say what it does. I did read that a G28 (Home) command resets the calibration/bed levelling in some printers but it doesn't seem to do so on my KE. With the above start code the behaviour is, the bed heats up; just before it reaches temperature the printer checks the Y and X end stops, then it moves to the centre of the bed and checks the Z height with the touch sensor, all the above in response to the G28, I think; then it moves over to the nozzle wipe area and waits for the extruder to get up to temperature; then it does the nozzle wipe (you can see that in the code above - the G1 "Draw 1st line" and following codes; then it prints.

If you dare to fill your brain with gcode stuff there's lots of info on what the codes do (though there is huge variation in which codes are supported by which printers, or rather, by which versions of which firmware) but it's not as scary as it looks. The code you posted is not just start code - there's lots of print code too, all the stuff that starts with G1, E7 etc.

3 words:

"Bambu X1 Carbon"

 

[Prajna]

3 words:

"Bambu X1 Carbon"

I have still not modified a single thing on my KE and it prints great ever time. I did the initial bed levelling (automatic), but I haven't changed the Z offset or messed with my start/end gcodes (except to paste in a line or two that Mainsail recommended in order to optimise things) or physically changed anything about the printer (except to check all the screws were tight). It just does its thing reliably (so far). So what does your fancy-dancy-expensive Bambu do that mine doesn't? If my KE does misbehave then at least I have access to everything to make adjustments etc. Maybe we need a separate thread for the Bambu fans v everything else slagging match.

 

[Onoff]

I have still not modified a single thing on my KE and it prints great ever time. I did the initial bed levelling (automatic), but I haven't changed the Z offset or messed with my start/end gcodes (except to paste in a line or two that Mainsail recommended in order to optimise things) or physically changed anything about the printer (except to check all the screws were tight). It just does its thing reliably (so far). So what does your fancy-dancy-expensive Bambu do that mine doesn't? If my KE does misbehave then at least I have access to everything to make adjustments etc. Maybe we need a separate thread for the Bambu fans v everything else slagging match.

Not a slagging match at all. We have an Anycubic clone of the Prusa i3 sat here that we've modified the hell out of. Been a great thing to tinker with and upgrade, learn from. Also a good bonding experience with my lad.

https://flic.kr/p/2oixQzD

https://flic.kr/p/2oaRSTj

https://flic.kr/p/2j34SGx

The X1C was as much as treat. Out of the box it just works. We got it mainly for the speed as we do a lot of prototyping it makes it easy. It can print a test piece whilst your discussing what was wrong with the previous test. You don't have to think about print schedules and whether it'll finish before you go out, worry about it printing overnight etc.

Then there's the multi material, multi colour printing which is so easy and with say supports a game changer.

Print quality wise the Anycubic quality isn't far off what the Bambu can do. The Bambu is just about x10 quicker.

 

[ukracer]

3 words:

"Bambu X1 Carbon"

When I get access to the cash I intend to get one.
I saw an article that they have a replacement board out now so they can utilise open source. But did not take much notice as I was busy.

 

[Onoff]

When I get access to the cash I intend to get one.
I saw an article that they have a replacement board out now so they can utilise open source. But did not take much notice as I was busy.

There's also a new hot end that increases the volumetric plastic flow by up to 60%:

E3D High Flow ObXidian™ HotEnd for Bambu Lab X1/P1 Series

Boost your 3D printing with E3D & Bambu Lab ObXidian High Flow HotEnds. Elevate performance with a 60% increase in flow rate, enhanced durability via E3DLC™ coating, and easy compatibility with X1, X1 Carbon, P1S, and P1P. A seamless upgrade for unparalleled printing efficiency.

e3d-online.com

 

[Prajna]

So what speed do you get from your X1? My KE claims max = 500mm/s and typical 300mm/s. I've not seen it print that fast (though it does seem to move close to that sometimes) but it certainly is fast. I've been printing 2mm thick parts for testing fit and it knocks those out in minutes or less. Ok, I have to swap filament manually but at least I can buy my filament anywhere and don't have to pay whatever Bambu feel like charging.

 

[My Old Landy]

So what speed do you get from your X1? My KE claims max = 500mm/s and typical 300mm/s. I've not seen it print that fast (though it does seem to move close to that sometimes) but it certainly is fast. I've been printing 2mm thick parts for testing fit and it knocks those out in minutes or less. Ok, I have to swap filament manually but at least I can buy my filament anywhere and don't have to pay whatever Bambu feel like charging.

I don't use Bambu filament in my P1S, you can use anything. My preferred filament is Sunlu and it prints just fine.
It is a myth that you need to use their own stuff.

 

[Onoff]

at least I can buy my filament anywhere and don't have to pay whatever Bambu feel like charging.

? You are not restricted to using Bambu filament on the Bambu. You can use any filament.

However...if you do use Bambu filament then each reel has an RFID tag. This automatically tells the printer what it's using and is useful for it setting optimum parameters.

 

[jmp49]

Sounds silly but I did not see it start. I was trying to get it to print from octoprint. Its rather slow, and did not indicate it had started. I will check on monday.


That would make sense. (I think)


I have been reading up on it. I got a screen shot of Octoprint start and finish codes.

I also have the Gcode for presliced files. The lad I got it off cant help as he only uses prusa slcer but due to ill health has not got a replacement printer eyt.


Awesome. I am just glad people can understand what I am saying, especially when I dont know what I am saying myself. lolView attachment 465084

My prusa start gcode looks like this, but bear in mind Im using klipper not marlin now but same principles. Probe Z offset is dealt with printer side, and the slicer just inserts a G28 to trigger the firmware's homing proceedure

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S{is_nil(idle_temperature[0]) ? 150 : idle_temperature[0]} ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
G28 ; home all axis

That code block is inserted right at the top of any .gcode file sliced by prusa, and its literally the only reference to homing axis in the entire slicer file.
Id post my klipper config on homing, but it would make no sense when comparing to marlin setup. But if your gcode exists and works, the marlin side of the firmware is probably already set up correctly.
I'd open up some of the .gco files that you got with it that work fully in a text editor and see if they have anything in the setup gcode besides something similar to the above. Its probably done printer side, and the slicer just has to insert a g28

 

[Prajna]

? You are not restricted to using Bambu filament on the Bambu. You can use any filament.

However...if you do use Bambu filament then each reel has an RFID tag. This automatically tells the printer what it's using and is useful for it setting optimum parameters.

Ah, that's what it is all about then. There's much confusion on the 3DP forums.

 

[ukracer]

My prusa start gcode looks like this, but bear in mind Im using klipper not marlin now but same principles. Probe Z offset is dealt with printer side, and the slicer just inserts a G28 to trigger the firmware's homing proceedure

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S{is_nil(idle_temperature[0]) ? 150 : idle_temperature[0]} ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing and auto bed leveling
M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp
M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stabilize
G28 ; home all axis

That code block is inserted right at the top of any .gcode file sliced by prusa, and its literally the only reference to homing axis in the entire slicer file.
Id post my klipper config on homing, but it would make no sense when comparing to marlin setup. But if your gcode exists and works, the marlin side of the firmware is probably already set up correctly.
I'd open up some of the .gco files that you got with it that work fully in a text editor and see if they have anything in the setup gcode besides something similar to the above. Its probably done printer side, and the slicer just has to insert a g28

I guess I have to ask why is klipper better than Marlin ?

But it's probably me being thick again . Obviously @ajlelectronics is correct, in that it's better to have it in the printers firmware.

What I am trying to establish is how the printer knows when and how to the BL Touch levelling procedure is invoked etc.

Put simply one I would like to have the knowledge but two there are two files I don't have the original STL for that were sliced by the previous owner using prusa slicer.

What I don't want to do is set the offset up in the Firmware and then use one of those two.presliced files and crash the bed.....

 

[jmp49]

Open the original working already sliced gcode files, they're just text lists of gcodes. if they just use a g28 to home the axis near the start similar to the posts above, then the config is in the firmware already. If your lucky you wont have to alter its value, but sooner or later you will want to tweak it unless its well set up, and you do that with a mcode into the firmware of the printer board itself to change it there, irrc its M851 something like 'M851 Z-2.0' to set -2.0 z offset, then a M500 to store it in the firmware, and M501 to set it as active. BUT dont do this because its probably already set nicely to a different value and you'll mess it up, its just a example of the mcode. You can read what the firmware is set to right now using a M503 command https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html in the octoprint terminal window to retrieve the firmware values and see the value already assigned to M851.

Klipper is sort of like octoprint controling a marlin printer, but it does all the calculations in real time for the print too, offloading work from the underpowered printer mainboard. The downside, the printer wont work without the klipper device being alive and running because its reflashed with a really optimised firmware that just covers its now simpler work.
For me its better than running octoprint/marlin (which I did for years) because of the offloading of work and the printer's mainboard just acts as a slave passthrough to the stepper interfaces etc, so the calculations can happen faster and with more precision. The original printer motherboard just sits there doing simple stuff its capable of doing at higher speed with no latency as a result. There's a LOT of other benefits, gui's, touchscreens, remote access, webcam timelapse features, resonance tuning etc but we're already polluting this thread but you can read up here if your interested: https://www.klipper3d.org/Features.html

 

[ukracer]

Open the original working already sliced gcode files, they're just text lists of gcodes. if they just use a g28 to home the axis near the start similar to the posts above, then the config is in the firmware already. If your lucky you wont have to alter its value, but sooner or later you will want to tweak it unless its well set up, and you do that with a mcode into the firmware of the printer board itself to change it there, irrc its M851 something like 'M851 Z-2.0' to set -2.0 z offset, then a M500 to store it in the firmware, and M501 to set it as active. BUT dont do this because its probably already set nicely to a different value and you'll mess it up, its just a example of the mcode. You can read what the firmware is set to right now using a M503 command https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html in the octoprint terminal window to retrieve the firmware values and see the value already assigned to M851.

Klipper is sort of like octoprint controling a marlin printer, but it does all the calculations in real time for the print too, offloading work from the underpowered printer mainboard. The downside, the printer wont work without the klipper device being alive and running because its reflashed with a really optimised firmware that just covers its now simpler work.
For me its better than running octoprint/marlin (which I did for years) because of the offloading of work and the printer's mainboard just acts as a slave passthrough to the stepper interfaces etc, so the calculations can happen faster and with more precision. The original printer motherboard just sits there doing simple stuff its capable of doing at higher speed with no latency as a result. There's a LOT of other benefits, gui's, touchscreens, remote access, webcam timelapse features, resonance tuning etc but we're already polluting this thread but you can read up here if your interested: https://www.klipper3d.org/Features.html

This is what is in the files that print at the correct height.

"
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

M107M190 S75 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached;TYPE:CustomG21;metric valuesG90;absolute positioningM82;set extruder to absolute mode

M117 Homing...G28 ; home all axesM104 S252 ; begin nozzle heat upM117 Levelling...G29 ; auto levelG1 Z10 F3000 ; lift

M117 Heat extruder and wipe...G92 E0;zero the extruded lengthG1 X5 Y145M109 S252 ; await nozzle heat upM117 Wiping nozzle...G1 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y5 E33.00000 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again"

 

[Prajna]

This is what is in the files that print at the correct height.

"
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

M107M190 S75 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached;TYPE:CustomG21;metric valuesG90;absolute positioningM82;set extruder to absolute mode

M117 Homing...G28 ; home all axesM104 S252 ; begin nozzle heat upM117 Levelling...G29 ; auto levelG1 Z10 F3000 ; lift

M117 Heat extruder and wipe...G92 E0;zero the extruded lengthG1 X5 Y145M109 S252 ; await nozzle heat upM117 Wiping nozzle...G1 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y5 E33.00000 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again"

That code seems to rely on the printe's z offset. It uses G28 for homing. It also does a bed level, which will set the Z height. When it does a nozzle wipe it sets Z to 0.2

 

[jmp49]

This is what is in the files that print at the correct height.

"
; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; perimeters extrusion width = 0.45mm; infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; solid infill extrusion width = 0.45mm; top infill extrusion width = 0.40mm; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

M107M190 S75 ; set bed temperature and wait for it to be reached;TYPE:CustomG21;metric valuesG90;absolute positioningM82;set extruder to absolute mode

M117 Homing...G28 ; home all axesM104 S252 ; begin nozzle heat upM117 Levelling...G29 ; auto levelG1 Z10 F3000 ; lift

M117 Heat extruder and wipe...G92 E0;zero the extruded lengthG1 X5 Y145M109 S252 ; await nozzle heat upM117 Wiping nozzle...G1 Z0.2 G1 X5 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y145 E25.00000 G1 X5.4 Y5 E33.00000 G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again"

I wonder if posting it here destroyed any formatting or did they look like that in the file, all bundled into one line. If the latter perhaps its using linux format, but I think if you use wordpad to open it, it'll be correctly formatted regardless , but not in notepad.
I'm just mentioning this specifically because if the formatting is good, its a lot easier to follow whats going on for you as anything to the right of the ; is a comment in marlin gcode. But those long lines look like multiple lines of command/comment munged into one. With the right formatting, its a list of Gcodes then a semicolon and a comment about what that does to make it more human readable.

Back to your posted code these are the important bits.

G28 ; home all axes <- this will home the axes, on ender with bltouch, there's a microswitch on the x and y but on the z there's no axis microswitch switch (you remove this when you fit bltouch if its retrofitted), so its homed using the contact point of the bltouch and it'll do this itself automatically.

G29 ; auto level <- this sets off the bed auto level proceedure built into marlin firmware. https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html If you read that page, it looks like the bed mesh levelling points are already stored in the printers firmware, so its not specifying G29 P0 verb to specify the levelling mode, so its just recalling the probe points from firmware (maybe it'll take one point automatically, idk). I cant remember how to dump out the bed mesh levelling point values, but you probably can find that in google, but its not important if its already set up and adhering well.

This is how my ender5 behaves with the crtouch too. Under klipper those mesh probe points are stored in a file, and it draws a heat map of the bed level so you can see how warped your bed is from a pretty graphic (mines quite bad, creality shipped it to me with the bed levelling screws overtightened distorting it into a crown shape during shipping, though as its meshed, it doesnt affect anything).
If you need more clarity, I think you should start a new thread in this subforum to get this thread back on track